Best Flower Temp For Vero29

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
thanks folks. im using the 360 in a 24x50" space. i think the small case is a shortcoming in my application. At 12 x 18" the case is shy in the length department. Im adding 100w of cxb pontoon to each end.

Good observation on the resin Random. Do you think the 3k cxbs will hit 450 and 660nm sufficiently enough to generate more frost?
Hmm!
A CXB creates ø10% blue and 50% red/IR. If you run them at 50w you get ø 5w of blue and 25w of red/IR.
I would add only one CXB on each side because 560w on a 2x 4 area is a bit overkill und you will get diminishing returns.

Two strings with 2-3 blue's and 15 red's will give you the same amount of light like one CXB in this wavelength and would set the output peaks to 450 and 660nm.
You will only lose the 40% portion cyan/green light of the CXB.
I think, this will better help to increase the resin output.

In my eyes, the 200W Optic's offers the best light distribution! For the 360W and above all the 500w a 30-40cm wider housing would be much better.
I'm also not a friend of lenses because they needs more headroom. I think a good reflektor with 90° is the better choise with less risk of burning the leaves in short distance situations. Only my 2ct's!
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
If you aren't into the range of diminishing returns...you're not maximizing your space. Simple as that.
Total yield is much more important and valuable than a better g/w.
Gg,

Do you have a rule of thumb for when you might be concerned about the toxic effects of over illumination?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Depositing my one cent ....

Before one chooses a Kelvin temperature for flowering ,
he / she should take into consideration some things ..
Like :
a ) The driving current .
b ) The Tc when Veros have reached their operational thermal equilibrium .
c ) For how long the Veros are going to be in service ,before they are replaced with new ones ...

The higher the driving current ,the more the shift towards "cooler " light ...
The higher the current ,means also higher Tc .
Higher operational Tc accelerates phosphor degradation .
Thus Veros will shift slowly towards
emitting cooler light ,in the long run ..

Thus ,if one plans to drive the Veros hard and plans to keep the same units for more than a year or two ...
Better to choose a lower CCT ,like 3000°K ...

From the other hand ,if one plans to drive them soft and keep the same units also for more than a year or two ,a CCT of 4000°K can be a choice
(driving the Veros soft ,tends to lower the CCT ,also ) .

If one wants to drive the Veros hard and still keep them ,for more than 1-2 years ...
Then ...
Either 4000°K can be used with a reeeeeaaaaly good cooling system ..
Or go with the CCT of 3000° K ...

4000K ,high driving currents and average cooling = short service life of COBs and/or severe phosphor degradation towards >4500 ° K ,within a year or two ...
Not such a good choice there ...
Except then ,if some red / deep red monos are going to be implemented along ...

Cheers.
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
Hey Folks,

Her's some pics from my first complete flowering session under the optic vero 360. It's my best result for sure. Solid nugs, smooth and powerful just starting to cure.

The heat sink in the pic is the larger half of the pontoon I'm building to augment the optic vero. It measures 18" x 12".
 

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testiclees

Well-Known Member
yeah I was talkin in general. That 360 is a lot of watts for basically the same size case as a51 150. I would use it 2x3 at 14inches! that's 60asquare! which would make the monster plants!
ya, most definitely agee.

This was my first try with the 360 and i hadnt planned it at all. My next plant should do much better now that i have a feel for the light. Also adding 31" of pontoon w 200w cxb3590 3k will support utilizing my foot print (24x50") more productively.
 
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