yellowing

[hitekhik]

I'm familiar with yellowing leaves. I have found a ton of information on this site alone plus the net.
I'm still not clear on what makes the center turn yellow and just on the one budsite. How come not all of them.
This is an Auto Mazar strain. Grown under CFL for veg and under CFL for flowering until I can correct it and move it outside. I use FFOF soil with Perlite and FF nutes. Grow Big, Tiger Bloom, Kangaroots, and Epsom salt.

 

[xSwimToTheMoon]

Wow, ive never seen that before. Even on the web.

it looks sketchy dude but my first instinct is to say that she looks hungry. Have you switched to flower nutes A week or two ago? Like right when u flipped to 12/12.

The holes and white speckles should be inspected too.

 

[hitekhik]

Wow, ive never seen that before. Even on the web.

it looks sketchy dude but my first instinct is to say that she looks hungry. Have you switched to flower nutes A week or two ago? Like right when u flipped to 12/12.

The holes and white speckles should be inspected too.

 

[Hessam]

My guess is iron deficiency. I think it's getting locked out by too much phosphorus or because of the pH. Have you started using Tiger Bloom?

 

[Budzbuddha]

Do flush , FFOF has enough nutes in it for Week 3/4. Looks like immobile nute lockout.

Deficiencies of immobile nutrients first appear in the new growth as the plant was unable to take up sufficient amounts to transport them to the new shoots.

Autos are sensitive to nute levels both plus and minus. I start veg nutes 1/2 strength Fox Farm ( Gro big / big bloom ) - one feeding . Once hitting preflower / flowering switch to Bloom nutes ( Tiger bloom ) 1/2 strength . Up to week 7/8 ( depending on breeder harvest time ). Keep your feedings discrete. They are NOWHERE near the same feedings as regular photo period seeds.

Remember harvest times for Autos are ACTUALLY a little longer.

Example :
55/60 day strain - Actually 9 / 10 week ( day 70 thru 77 )
75 day - ( went to near day 85 )

 

[GOLDBERG71]

That looks exactly like a plant left with no light for a couple of days to me. I just threw out 3 plants. Since I have to pay by the pound for trash disposal. I didn't water from the moment I decided to cull the plants. I left the lights on until the soil tops were showing signs of drying. I then turned the lights off and today after about 5 days of lights off I culled them with NO water in the soil. The plants looked just like that. Old established plant material looked healthy and newer growth looked lime green just like yours. Are you using high output cfls? CFL is about as weak as you can get for lighting. I won't use anything other than HID except for rooting cuttings. Even then I won't use a CFL I prefer HO T5 lighting for that.

 

[hitekhik]

The holes and speckles were treated. This pic is a week old. I use need oil with a small dose of dish soap and ph'd water. I use the concentrate neem, to be mixed. Not sure if water has to be ph'd but it's not hurting it. I have only fed I think 4 times or so. Switched from grow big to tiger bloom. I've been using Epsom salt for mag def. It's done the trick.
Closet conclusion I can come up with is I have locked out a nutrient that's vital. I have been ph'ing with paper test strips. Not accurate like I would like it to be. My tap is 8.4! But when I add nutrients and then test the run off I'm down to 5 maybe 4. Going to flush and see if that works, what you think?

That looks exactly like a plant left with no light for a couple of days to me. I just threw out 3 plants. Since I have to pay by the pound for trash disposal. I didn't water from the moment I decided to cull the plants. I left the lights on until the soil tops were showing signs of drying. I then turned the lights off and today after about 5 days of lights off I culled them with NO water in the soil. The plants looked just like that. Old established plant material looked healthy and newer growth looked lime green just like yours. Are you using high output cfls? CFL is about as weak as you can get for lighting. I won't use anything other than HID except for rooting cuttings. Even then I won't use a CFL I prefer HO T5 lighting for that.

It's an auto strain called Auto Mazar. I vegged inside, when flowering started, I put outside. Only dark period it has had is night time. I kept it partly shaded to harden it off to sunlight. Reckon that might of done it? The cfl's in my experience, are awesome for vegging. Flowering is okay. I don't have a place for a stealthy room big enough to run MH and HPS. I would love to run HPS!!

 

[hitekhik]

My guess is iron deficiency. I think it's getting locked out by too much phosphorus or because of the pH. Have you started using Tiger Bloom?

I have fed with Tiger bloom 2 feedings. the plant had this symptom before the feed.

Do flush , FFOF has enough nutes in it for Week 3/4. Looks like immobile nute lockout.

Deficiencies of immobile nutrients first appear in the new growth as the plant was unable to take up sufficient amounts to transport them to the new shoots.

Autos are sensitive to nute levels both plus and minus. I start veg nutes 1/2 strength Fox Farm ( Gro big / big bloom ) - one feeding . Once hitting preflower / flowering switch to Bloom nutes ( Tiger bloom ) 1/2 strength . Up to week 7/8 ( depending on breeder harvest time ). Keep your feedings discrete. They are NOWHERE near the same feedings as regular photo period seeds.

Remember harvest times for Autos are ACTUALLY a little longer.

Example :
55/60 day strain - Actually 9 / 10 week ( day 70 thru 77 )
75 day - ( went to near day 85 )

Do flush , FFOF has enough nutes in it for Week 3/4. Looks like immobile nute lockout.

Deficiencies of immobile nutrients first appear in the new growth as the plant was unable to take up sufficient amounts to transport them to the new shoots.

Autos are sensitive to nute levels both plus and minus. I start veg nutes 1/2 strength Fox Farm ( Gro big / big bloom ) - one feeding . Once hitting preflower / flowering switch to Bloom nutes ( Tiger bloom ) 1/2 strength . Up to week 7/8 ( depending on breeder harvest time ). Keep your feedings discrete. They are NOWHERE near the same feedings as regular photo period seeds.

Remember harvest times for Autos are ACTUALLY a little longer.

Example :
55/60 day strain - Actually 9 / 10 week ( day 70 thru 77 )
75 day - ( went to near day 85 )

The plant was in a Solo cup. It was a month and a week old from seed. I just transplanted into one gallon container a week and some days after flowering had started. Could I get a recommendation for a PH up and PH down? I try to stay as organic as possible.

 

[GOLDBERG71]

The holes and speckles were treated. This pic is a week old. I use need oil with a small dose of dish soap and ph'd water. I use the concentrate neem, to be mixed. Not sure if water has to be ph'd but it's not hurting it. I have only fed I think 4 times or so. Switched from grow big to tiger bloom. I've been using Epsom salt for mag def. It's done the trick.
Closet conclusion I can come up with is I have locked out a nutrient that's vital. I have been ph'ing with paper test strips. Not accurate like I would like it to be. My tap is 8.4! But when I add nutrients and then test the run off I'm down to 5 maybe 4. Going to flush and see if that works, what you think?

It's an auto strain called Auto Mazar. I vegged inside, when flowering started, I put outside. Only dark period it has had is night time. I kept it partly shaded to harden it off to sunlight. Reckon that might of done it? The cfl's in my experience, are awesome for vegging. Flowering is okay. I don't have a place for a stealthy room big enough to run MH and HPS. I would love to run HPS!!

I hear you! I just can't put all this time and effort into anything and not get the BEST buds I can. I'm not growing anything I wouldn't buy. And if I'm growing I'm not buying. That rules out CFLs for me. Because it can always be bigger, fatter, tighter, or coated with more sugar! So if I'm not maximizing not only will the patients complain but I'd be unsatisfied.