Finished my 2nd DIY light. 100w Vero 29v2

Rahz

Well-Known Member
CXB with holders and a terminal block = solderless DC.
Terminal blocks = solderless AC.
Want to get fancy with AC in/out, power switch? Crimp connectors = solderless, though for personal use that stuff might be pointless.

The only situation where soldering would be a good idea is connecting Veros in series.
 

coolbreez1

Well-Known Member
I like the little plastic legs everyone has been adding to there Heatsinks/builds of late, it would make moving them around a bit simple. Very nice clean, winning.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Soldering is the easiest part! I didn't even consider the special connectors for the vero series. It's just too easy to solder to the pads, and more secure. (you will rip the pad off the cob before the wire comes off the pad.)

Just don't try to solder MCPCB stars. That requires getting the entire aluminum star hot just to get a pad to take a tin.
 

bizfactory

Well-Known Member
So far so good. It runs pretty warm as far as the drivers and the heatsink go. I kinda wish I would have ran 12v to the fan instead of 5v.

The plant that is under it got a little too dry and had some wilting but once it got some water it perked right up. Hopefully that doesn't hurt too much in early flower.
 

bizfactory

Well-Known Member
Well it's in a 2x2x5 tent along with a 90w bloom boss. Definitely overkill but whatever. It could easily handle this tent alone but I wouldn't go too much bigger.
 
Top