Hydroponics VS Soil (plz read)
- Thread starter Budda_Luva
- Start date
ALuckyShot
Well-Known Member
Haven't you figured it out soil is just better, it doesn't matter what soil. I am so kidding, what a great point he made.
This thread really bothers me to be honest. I had time yesterday and looked through tons of websites discussing hydro vs soil for taste comparison and the only sources I could find that claimed soil tasted better was on marijuana forums, go figure, and one new age healer in South Korea. The scientists in that article wanted to see the country move towards 40% of produce consumed to be hydroponically grown by 2012. The new age healer wanted to see 100% organic soil grow.
I did come across many different websites saying things like they both work really well with hydro basically nudging soil out for yield, and growth rates, cleanliness, less disease, less pests etc.. only if done right, if not done right you end up killing things even faster than soil since there is no buffer between the roots and nutrients. Only on marijuana forums will you hear how soil is so much better with taste specified as the reason.
I love Marijuana soil, hydro, I really don't give a rats ass. I just find it funny that up here in Ontario, Canada. You say you have "dro" and it is basically assumed you have some amazing chornic. No one says I got organics, not here at least.
Sorry to get all riled up and offensive just neither method is second rate both have positives and negatives you gotta pick the right one for you. You can grow hydroponics organically my nutrients specify right on the front "hydroponics, soil, coco" so why is soil going to make it so much tastier when the same nutrients can be used in either medium?
I am curious is coco going to kick hydro's ass also? Does organically grown hydroponics beat chemical fertilizer soil grows? Or does any soil grow just beat hydro grows for taste? Maybe we will all reach an agreement that there are shades of grey. I only get really pissed off because all too often neither side accepts the shades of grey and I see people directed away from hydroponics towards soil, which is definitely just as rewarding as soil.
If anyone here has links to actual experiments of hydro vs soil I would love to read them.
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
I use 1 part nute-free organic soil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part pearlite, and add 1/4 wormcastings. I use all organic nutes rated 1-0.5-0.5 for veg, and 0.5-1-0.5 for flower.
ThunderLips
Well-Known Member
I grow mine in sawdust.... yep fucking saw dust. Fuck dirt, fuck hydro.... SAWFUCKINGDUST!
Lord Dangly Bits
Well-Known Member
ALUCKYSHOT,
If you could not find anymore websites that state that soil is better, then why do all the people that compete in the cannabus cup, grow those buds in soil?
Just s thought.. Still makes me go.. Hmmmmmmmm
If you could not find anymore websites that state that soil is better, then why do all the people that compete in the cannabus cup, grow those buds in soil?
Just s thought.. Still makes me go.. Hmmmmmmmm
ALuckyShot
Well-Known Member
I found lots of websites that said soil was better for taste only, they also just happened to be strictly pot websites, with lots of them being badly written forum posts specifically. The world used to be flat if you get my drift, my grandma still uses a rotary phone, point being things change and it is not uncommon for people to hold on to and put down the new era. Websites except the one from the new age healer and marijuana forums said hydroponic and soil tasted the same or never mentioned taste of either.
I see your point Lord dangly bits, I am not against soil. I built a shitty bubbler system the other day and quickly said fuck this and put my mother in soil so I wouldn't kill her lol.
You really haven't rebutted anything which makes me go hmmmmmmm also. I would love to know why soil tastes better, it just does doesn't sit with me, one might as well say God did it. Do you believe it is the microbes in the soil that cause a breakdown of trace nutrients? That is at least a plausible reason. Most reasons I read from growers seem to be because hydro isn't "organic" and has a "chemical taste" meanwhile lots of hydro growers grow strictly organically and flush their plants before harvest.
McLovin420
Well-Known Member
Lucky if I had to guess I 'd have to say it's because marijuana is being smoked & the others are being ingested.
I have never grown hydro but plan to just as soon as I get soil figured out.
Soil mix
60 lbs top soil
40 lbs mushroom compost
45 lbs soil conditioner
16 liters perlite
8 liters vermiculite
I didn't measure the peat moss, I probably put about 3/4 cf
I got the soil consistency the way I wanted before I added the good stuff.
1 1/4 cups blood meal
1 1/4 cups blood meal
1 1/2 cup dolomite lime
1 1/2 cup of aluminum sulphate
1 TBS muriate of potash
1 TBS copperas
I have never grown hydro but plan to just as soon as I get soil figured out.
Soil mix
60 lbs top soil
40 lbs mushroom compost
45 lbs soil conditioner
16 liters perlite
8 liters vermiculite
I didn't measure the peat moss, I probably put about 3/4 cf
I got the soil consistency the way I wanted before I added the good stuff.
1 1/4 cups blood meal
1 1/4 cups blood meal
1 1/2 cup dolomite lime
1 1/2 cup of aluminum sulphate
1 TBS muriate of potash
1 TBS copperas
Budda_Luva
Well-Known Member
LOL me to where i live in illinois u have some dro and all of sudden it the best shit around but its tha street shit that gets people to think that when they dont even know the half dro or soil it the strain and genes and the HPS lamp lol that makes it potent
ALuckyShot
Well-Known Member
Awesome point, this is exactly the sort of answers I am looking for
it never even crossed my mind and would potentially explain reasons behind the taste argument. I am not a moron when this many people say something is true I do believe there must be something to it. I just like real reasons and not BS reasons. I believe that neither side can deal in absolutes ever.Exactly Noob_Marijuana_Grower, you are 100% correct. I know what you mean and realize you can have AMAZING bud from any source, indoor, outdoor, Indica, Sativa, soil or hydro. They all work and if the person overseeing it knows what they are doing they could sell some outdoor primo stuff and say that is "dro" and no one will question it. Just like Lorddanglybits says though funny all cannabis cup winners are soil grow, yet street slang for amazing bud is often a shortened form of hydro.
Last edited:
Kludge
Well-Known Member
Hydro Pros:
Faster growth so shorter grow times.
Higher yields.
Hydro Cons:
Higher initial investment (testing equipment and hydro setup).
Finicky; you really have to watch your ppm and pH.
Pain in the ass.
Soil Pros:
Cheap.
Simple.
Not as finicky.
Soil Cons:
Dirty.
-----
Molasses:
Must be a Southern thing, I've know about it since I was a kid. It was the crappy syrup my grandmother had instead of the good ol' maple syrup.
People use it in marijuana cultivation because it's full of trace minerals like calcium, iron, and magnisium. In addition it has carbohydrates the helpful micro-organisms in the soil use for food.
Here's a good read on it:
Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., www.txplant-soillab.com
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]
The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.
Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars
and photosynthates are formed.
Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is
essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the
sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.
Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil
moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit
formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc-
tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.
ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table
sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides
found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.
* In the soil it can:
- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.
Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.
Faster growth so shorter grow times.
Higher yields.
Hydro Cons:
Higher initial investment (testing equipment and hydro setup).
Finicky; you really have to watch your ppm and pH.
Pain in the ass.
Soil Pros:
Cheap.
Simple.
Not as finicky.
Soil Cons:
Dirty.
-----
Molasses:
Must be a Southern thing, I've know about it since I was a kid. It was the crappy syrup my grandmother had instead of the good ol' maple syrup.
People use it in marijuana cultivation because it's full of trace minerals like calcium, iron, and magnisium. In addition it has carbohydrates the helpful micro-organisms in the soil use for food.
Here's a good read on it:
Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., www.txplant-soillab.com
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]
The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.
Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars
and photosynthates are formed.
Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is
essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the
sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.
Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil
moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit
formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc-
tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.
ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table
sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides
found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.
* In the soil it can:
- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.
Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.
Budda_Luva
Well-Known Member
well around here primo is bud laced with crack
ThunderLips
Well-Known Member
well to me technical a Primo, is a blunt, or a joint rolled with crack... Atleast thats what people in Alberta are smokin on... lol
ALuckyShot
Well-Known Member
Crack in your weed? Some one needs to teach those Albertans how to smoke. I am sure our goverment isn't overly concerned about the crack labour taking place in Alberta. My buddy was saying it is pretty bad he goes out there to work during the summers and smoking weed is a no no, yet half the time people are on crack and coke because they can pass the drug tests in a couple days due to pot being fat soluble and crack / coke being water soluble.
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
WTF!!!!!!!!!
Ok I live in Alberta as well (originally from B.C)...and around here we DON'T lace our joints. Must be a young-in...cause mature people would NEVER do that.
Budda_Luva
Well-Known Member
i remember we laced this guys blunt wit some crak cuz he was always a bitch and he got fukked up he started tripin he started takin off his shirt and feelin all over his face juss str8 tweakin the shit was funny
sir smokesalot
Well-Known Member
I think that it all boils down to which one you are most proficent at. Some one who has grown soil for 10 years and has their shit dialed in is always going to produce better bud than some one who is relatively inexperienced trying to grow hydro, and vice versa.
i think if you were to compare say... flithyfletch doin aero to FDD doin a soil grow both are going to have some seriously dank shit. the only variables between the two would probably be length of grow.
either way is as easy as the other and both have advantages and disadvantages but hydro/aero gets bashed so much because it has a much steeper learning curve. any monkey could stick a seed in some soil and it will start to grow. and before someone flames me im not bashing soil i grow in both, but people just being introduced to growing should grow soil and get the basics down then advance to hyrdo or aero. dont just go out there and buy an aerogarden and then think you going to be pulling in poundage
you have to do your homework and prepare yourself before doing hydro or aero. you cant learn as you go
P.S. maybe we should have a competition with the best growers on this site, maybe do a tournament and see who comes out on top. just a thought
i think if you were to compare say... flithyfletch doin aero to FDD doin a soil grow both are going to have some seriously dank shit. the only variables between the two would probably be length of grow.
either way is as easy as the other and both have advantages and disadvantages but hydro/aero gets bashed so much because it has a much steeper learning curve. any monkey could stick a seed in some soil and it will start to grow. and before someone flames me im not bashing soil i grow in both, but people just being introduced to growing should grow soil and get the basics down then advance to hyrdo or aero. dont just go out there and buy an aerogarden and then think you going to be pulling in poundage
you have to do your homework and prepare yourself before doing hydro or aero. you cant learn as you go P.S. maybe we should have a competition with the best growers on this site, maybe do a tournament and see who comes out on top. just a thought
WeEdDeMoN
Well-Known Member
whats your source? i was concidering using co2 but never knew the result be be that great
ThunderLips
Well-Known Member
Source? Just to back up his claim, this is widly talked about on this very website... You can do a search and find grow journals using CO2 and grow journals without and there is your source. The grow faq on this site also talks about it.
LOL i personally dont smoke crack but I see it all the time here. Its all over.
I think that it all boils down to which one you are most proficent at. Some one who has grown soil for 10 years and has their shit dialed in is always going to produce better bud than some one who is relatively inexperienced trying to grow hydro, and vice versa.
i think if you were to compare say... flithyfletch doin aero to FDD doin a soil grow both are going to have some seriously dank shit. the only variables between the two would probably be length of grow.
either way is as easy as the other and both have advantages and disadvantages but hydro/aero gets bashed so much because it has a much steeper learning curve. any monkey could stick a seed in some soil and it will start to grow. and before someone flames me im not bashing soil i grow in both, but people just being introduced to growing should grow soil and get the basics down then advance to hyrdo or aero. dont just go out there and buy an aerogarden and then think you going to be pulling in poundage
P.S. maybe we should have a competition with the best growers on this site, maybe do a tournament and see who comes out on top. just a thought
Dude! Your bashing Monkeys!!
good post though.