Best Flower Temp For Vero29

bicit

Well-Known Member
5000K was the most efficient in the last version for Vero 18 but it didn't get any boost with the version two. I'm going by the LER (334 for 5000K) Supra provided and using the data right off the new datasheet Bridgelux provides.

I didn't do calculations for the other Vero makes (10, 13, 29), so maybe the other makes got a little boosty boost?

:-P
Even though it didn't get a boost, it's still the 5000k 70cri is still the most efficient out of the vero lineup by 3% compared to the 4000k 80 cri.

I'm wondering how long it will take either cree or bridgelux to start making horticulture specific phosphor coatings. :hump:
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Even though it didn't get a boost, it's still the 5000k 70cri is still the most efficient out of the vero lineup by 3% compared to the 4000k 80 cri.

I'm wondering how long it will take either cree or bridgelux to start making horticulture specific phosphor coatings. :hump:
Thank you for helping me understand, Bicit ; Alesh didn't state the CRI (the 80CRI 5000K is less efficient than the 80CRI 4000K, which was what I was going by).

The logic that I go by is that the higher the correlated color temperature, the more efficient due to less phosphor coating - more blue. By glancing at the data sheet, Bridgelux doesn't offer data on the the 4000K 70CRI make (because they don't make it) but by going by the 90CRI trend difference between the two makes, 5000K 70CRI would still most likely come up on top as being most efficient.

28days and there startin to put mass on
Looking good! They seem to be reaching for the light!
 

coolbreez1

Well-Known Member
Would you still consider the 4000k vero 29 v2 good for both flower and veg?
I don't think there is a huge difference between the Vero 29 4000 V1 and V2 in terms of spectral output, just increased efficiency. I think if you are looking for a solid all around light for veg and flower the 4000k is a good choice. I am extremely happy with my V1 4000k for both veg and flower.

I am not sure why everyone keeps saying high blue is great for a fast veg because you get more stretched out plants. First, it seems to me, assuming you have some sort of plant number restriction or some amount of space restriction that, at least in my case, I would need to SLOW down my veg time as to not end up with plants that are to large for my grow area. Secondly, why would a stretched out spindly plant be better? You could get it to the size you want faster, assuming the previously stated issues are none issues, but that plant is not going to be as health and produce as well as one that has a nice fat stock and good branching.

Given, as I have stated I am pretty new at this, and I am the time of person that always wants to challenge the accepted wisdom and prove for my self what is actually effective.

BTW starting seeds in paper towels and water sucks! Just use a smallish, 1 gallon pot and stick it under the lights, let it get big enough for the roots to start showing at the bottom of the pot and transplant directly into 5 gallon fabric pot, veg, trim and flower.
 

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
Thank you for helping me understand, Bicit ; Alesh didn't state the CRI (the 80CRI 5000K is less efficient than the 80CRI 4000K, which was what I was going by).

The logic that I go by is that the higher the correlated color temperature, the more efficient due to less phosphor coating - more blue. By glancing at the data sheet, Bridgelux doesn't offer data on the the 4000K 70CRI make (because they don't make it) but by going by the 90CRI trend difference between the two makes, 5000K 70CRI would still most likely come up on top as being most efficient.



Looking good! They seem to be reaching for the light!
Its actually nice to have a fixture that u can put the short ones under! and a week later 6-8 in taller,move it under the kind-which keeps em nice en short due to all the blues! Just my opinion though!
 

werm11

Well-Known Member
I'm glad this thread was started. I just ordered some 4000k vero 10s for a veg light. My reason for going with 4000k is that every so often it will be used to start the flowering process or used as supplement in flower but will be a veg light 80% of the time. I thought 4000k would be a good compromise and I liked greengenes recent grow under his 4000k. Glad to see others are using that color temp for the same reasons and it's working out for them
 

cityworker415

Well-Known Member
I'm not fully convinced on 4000K being ideal in all situations, though I understand there are scientifically proven benefits to both deeper reds and near UV in this regard. I've chosen 3000K because of it's warmth and with efficacy similar to the cooler emitters, though I'm not convinced my opinion isn't biased on a limited data set and theories. To truly answer the question of the OP two lamps with same PPFD would need to be ran against each other several times.

I think a certain amount of stretch is good for maximizing yield if it can get the apical flowers above the canopy, and it's also useful for producing a fast veg. Both of those might be valid concerns in a SCROG for instance. In other situations neither of those may be as relevant. Quality is a different matter, and while I don't have the full range of personal experience, you can't really go wrong with 3000. If there's some difference I guess it will be very small.
I've grown under the California light Work blurple for a couple years and struggled to get full-size plants. When I started flowering under the onyx bloom 3000k right away I realized what I was missing and that was some of the higher Kelvin values making a mixed spectrum so being under the ease of experience to X stretch a couple of times but it's a welcome change from my small cactus looking bonsais. I've also ordered an optic CXB 3070 200 watt unit to complement the 3000k and hopefully boost some efficiency. Cheers and good luck

Sent from my SM-G900V using Rollitup mobile app
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
I don't think there is a huge difference between the Vero 29 4000 V1 and V2 in terms of spectral output, just increased efficiency. I think if you are looking for a solid all around light for veg and flower the 4000k is a good choice. I am extremely happy with my V1 4000k for both veg and flower.

I am not sure why everyone keeps saying high blue is great for a fast veg because you get more stretched out plants. First, it seems to me, assuming you have some sort of plant number restriction or some amount of space restriction that, at least in my case, I would need to SLOW down my veg time as to not end up with plants that are to large for my grow area. Secondly, why would a stretched out spindly plant be better? You could get it to the size you want faster, assuming the previously stated issues are none issues, but that plant is not going to be as health and produce as well as one that has a nice fat stock and good branching.

Given, as I have stated I am pretty new at this, and I am the time of person that always wants to challenge the accepted wisdom and prove for my self what is actually effective.

BTW starting seeds in paper towels and water sucks! Just use a smallish, 1 gallon pot and stick it under the lights, let it get big enough for the roots to start showing at the bottom of the pot and transplant directly into 5 gallon fabric pot, veg, trim and flower.

Im finishing up first group of plants flowering using the optic in 4k. plants for sure are grooving on the light. One plant is particularly responsive. ill follow up w a pic.
 

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
Im finishing up first group of plants flowering using the optic in 4k. plants for sure are grooving on the light. One plant is particularly responsive. ill follow up w a pic.
are u noticing any stretch? weeks 1-4? I have the 3k and swear it shoots to light with longer node spacing! Your 4000K is in my opinion top flower spectrum! I don't think I would full cycle with the vero!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Nice dicussion and a never ending story!
I think as long as we have no comparison under identical conditions, a combination of 4.000k and 3.000k is probably the best solution.
So I'll start with 4.000K for the vegging and unlock the 3.000k when I switch on flower. That ends probably with a color mix with likely near 3.500k.
I had first planned to combine some red / 660nm with 4000K, but in the end of my calculations I still choose 3000K because this combination is significantly more efficient and in the end it gives more light for the plants.
And because the cost of all colors are identical at the end, you can make nothing wrong with a combination of different spectra.
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
Im finishing up first group of plants flowering using the optic in 4k. plants for sure are grooving on the light. One plant is particularly responsive. ill follow up w a pic.
This is first day week 7. There are 3 plant in this 15 gal but one is the chief lady in charge, she dominates. They are on an 12.5/11.5 (light/dark) schedule. The smaller plants look ready to finish up. The bigger mama looks to me like still has at least 3 weeks to go.

I cant really comment on the stretch action with 4 k. I dont have enough experience. Ive had the lamp just 2 months.

* the two smaller plants are barely observable in these photos.
 

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JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
Lets talk about finish times with the LED grown buds. I know there no side by side testing with my opinions. I really don't have time for it. I don't worry bout grams per watt I get, because it varies so much. I don't care about high yield vesus the high quality. I do know one thing. When I have led grown buds? no else moves theres! Oh ya! high quality always beats yield with me! The last run I noticed many strains finished 7-10 days early! Is this the LEDs? There will always be conflicting reports on blues n reds and what they do or don't do! From my 20+ years exp growing, Blues do what they do and reds do what they do! And the last year I do believe UV/IR become a new weapon in the toolbox! Just my opinion though! Lets throw in the all important feed program and medium and container used also! So now we have all these added checklist so to speak? I hope everyone can understand where I am coming from? Just got done tokin some strawberry banana and my mindset is little medicated!
 

ReeferDance

Well-Known Member
Just posted this in another thread, might be relevant here.



Still trying to work with my ~460 watts of Vero power in a 3x3. On day 47 of flower and looking to harvest one or two in the next few weeks, four of the others look they can go another 3 weeks. :weed:

I've got a pretty interesting spectrum mix going too. Heavy on the red side I guess, but digi-key didn't have the 4k in stock yet when I ordered the Vero29 2.0's :cry:

4 Vero29 2.0's 3500k (280w)
4 Vero18 1.2's 4000k (120w)
1 Vero29 1.2 3000k (60w)

Nice dicussion and a never ending story!
I think as long as we have no comparison under identical conditions, a combination of 4.000k and 3.000k is probably the best solution.
So I'll start with 4.000K for the vegging and unlock the 3.000k when I switch on flower. That ends probably with a color mix with likely near 3.500k.
I had first planned to combine some red / 660nm with 4000K, but in the end of my calculations I still choose 3000K because this combination is significantly more efficient and in the end it gives more light for the plants.
And because the cost of all colors are identical at the end, you can make nothing wrong with a combination of different spectra.
I'm almost done running this exact spectrum basically haha. There are a few pictures of my day 37 of flower in the All Things Vero thread.

I'm glad this thread was started. I just ordered some 4000k vero 10s for a veg light. My reason for going with 4000k is that every so often it will be used to start the flowering process or used as supplement in flower but will be a veg light 80% of the time. I thought 4000k would be a good compromise and I liked greengenes recent grow under his 4000k. Glad to see others are using that color temp for the same reasons and it's working out for them
You won't be disappointed! I recently switched all my veg lamps to Vero10's and 13's 4000k and they are loving it. Very nice node spacing, and the lights are about 16-24" away (2 spaces both about ~30w sq/f).
 

werm11

Well-Known Member
Just posted this in another thread, might be relevant here.



Still trying to work with my ~460 watts of Vero power in a 3x3. On day 47 of flower and looking to harvest one or two in the next few weeks, four of the others look they can go another 3 weeks. :weed:

I've got a pretty interesting spectrum mix going too. Heavy on the red side I guess, but digi-key didn't have the 4k in stock yet when I ordered the Vero29 2.0's :cry:

4 Vero29 2.0's 3500k (280w)
4 Vero18 1.2's 4000k (120w)
1 Vero29 1.2 3000k (60w)



I'm almost done running this exact spectrum basically haha. There are a few pictures of my day 37 of flower in the All Things Vero thread.



You won't be disappointed! I recently switched all my veg lamps to Vero10's and 13's 4000k and they are loving it. Very nice node spacing, and the lights are about 16-24" away (2 spaces both about ~30w sq/f).
Sounds awesome.

So you're running 30/w sq ft in veg? I think you could get away with much less than that in veg. my lamp will be more like 10w/sq ft.
 
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