...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

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I have had a few where I was unable to get all four holes to line up for mounting. It does not seem to have caused any major problems as of yet. It is also one of the reasons I plan to try my next build just using the kaptan tape for mounting, it should take less and effort to mount with the kaptan tape, while at the same time it should increase the re-usability of the heat sinks.
 
coolbreez1 said:
I have had a few where I was unable to get all four holes to line up for mounting. It does not seem to have caused any major problems as of yet. It is also one of the reasons I plan to try my next build just using the kaptan tape for mounting, it should take less and effort to mount with the kaptan tape, while at the same time it should increase the re-usability of the heat sinks.
Click to expand...

Ok thats good, have you done just 2 out of 4? I could just drill and tap them but I'm feeling lazy lol
 
I honestly do not recall... I want to say it should not be an issue... But I don't want to be responsible for your build not working out as well as intended. I completely understand about drilling and tapping, its the hardest part of the entire build process in my opinion. As I have been saying around here a lot of late, this is why I plan to use some kapton tape to mount my next build. I am certain you could get away with two screws and then hold the other sides down with kapton...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=kapton tape

Shit the stuff is even way less expensive then screws...
 
I am thinking of trying something about this size. I had originally thought of going with 3590s but after reading this thread and others like it here on RIU, I've decided that the veros are a better buy. Still trying to figure out exactly were the small cabinet will sit as of yet. I have a nice area in my office that I could commandeer that would be similar to what you have showing here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi all,

robincnn said:
Awesome light
I see artic 11 in your equipment but in the light fixture I just see one large heatsink.
Are you powering 2 veros with HLG-185H-C1050B
Click to expand...

Yep, for the first step of the build but at the end i will plug 4 Vero29 in total to this driver. These Artic 11 are for a future evolution of the panel, i want to add some CXA 3000K @ 700mA, only two at the beginning and later up to 4 of them.

bizfactory said:
Is okay to use only 2 of the 4 mounting holes on a Vero 29? All 4 will be hard to line up with the fins of the heatsink.
Click to expand...

I was not sure at the beginnning but @1050mA, the Vero's run only @ 38.2W, so it stays quite cold. The heatsink stays cool even after a few hours up. The 140mm fan is doing a great job for it.

I tested the panel in real situation last night, it's doing great, it stays cool, no noise, no smoke (:D)... Note for myself, i really need to find some Kapton tape or some equivalent for it.

Bye

Always look at the pink side of life !
 

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Hey all,

I have a little doubt, is it possible to mount multiple Vero29 in series ? Do i need some special holders to do that ? My COBs (only two) are mounted in parallel mode, it's probably a bad idea but i didn't knew that yesterday. :p
Can someone please post a picture of a build in series ?

Thank you in advance.

....

I think i found my answer, there are two solders pads on the COB, i was thinking it was something for a monitoring purpose.

Thanks anyway.
 
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GFS_Nic said:
Hey all,

I have a little doubt, is it possible to mount multiple Vero29 in series ? Do i need some special holders to do that ? My COBs (only two) are mounted in parallel mode, it's probably a bad idea but i didn't knew that yesterday. :p
Can someone please post a picture of a build in series ?

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
Yes, you can. No special holders required.
Parallel connection isn't recommended but shouldn't be an issue in most cases.
 
Thank you all for your answers. I just bought a energy meter (amp and Watt) to check the real wattage of my test panel. I will try it in parallel mode and then in series mode.
If it's not a problem to go with the parallel mode, i prefer leave it that way, it's more easy to change the layout and setup.

Cheers
 
GFS_Nic said:
Thank you all for your answers. I just bought a energy meter (amp and Watt) to check the real wattage of my test panel. I will try it in parallel mode and then in series mode.
If it's not a problem to go with the parallel mode, i prefer leave it that way, it's more easy to change the layout and setup.

Cheers
Click to expand...
What's your driver? I don't think that you'll be able to run your LEDs in both modes on one driver.
 
Hi alesh,

alesh said:
What's your driver? I don't think that you'll be able to run your LEDs in both modes on one driver.
Click to expand...

Sorry, i'm not sure i fully understand your question, english isn't my mother language. My driver is a Mean Well HLG-185H-C1050B.

If i try the "series" mode, i will plug everything in series. If i choose "parallel" mode (most likely not), i will plug everything in parallel. (hope that will answer your question)
 
GFS_Nic said:
Hi alesh,



Sorry, i'm not sure i fully understand your question, english isn't my mother language. My driver is a Mean Well HLG-185H-C1050B.

If i try the "series" mode, i will plug everything in series. If i choose "parallel" mode (most likely not), i will plug everything in parallel. (hope that will answer your question)
Click to expand...

Hmm I'm also surprised your light is working now if it is truly in parallel. WIth that driver, you should only be able to do series since it has a constant current ouput. If you were to go parallel then a constant voltage driver with higher amperage would be needed. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but that's how I understand it.
 
Hi bizfactory,

bizfactory said:
Hmm I'm also surprised your light is working now if it is truly in parallel. WIth that driver, you should only be able to do series since it has a constant current ouput. If you were to go parallel then a constant voltage driver with higher amperage would be needed. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but that's how I understand it.
Click to expand...

That's how it's look like:

There are two pico molex cables connected to the output cables of the driver.
liaison.jpg
 
Hi,

Ok, i resolve my mistake, it was indeed a wrong wirering. I am now in "series" mode without any soldering. I dont know why i couldn't see it before, you can use the pico molex EZ mate to make it.

Before:
A1.jpgA2.jpg A3.jpg

After:
B1.jpg B2.jpg B3.jpg :)

It's so simple, it's stupid (like me):
20150511_195435.jpg

Thanks a lot for your help guys. I hope i can give back something to the community some day.

Cheers from Belgium.
 
GFS_Nic said:
Hi bizfactory,



That's how it's look like:

There are two pico molex cables connected to the output cables of the driver.
View attachment 3415966
Click to expand...
Power supply is not matching the load.
HLG-185H-C1050B is for 95v to 190v
This means this power supply is designed to power min 3 vero in series 37*3=111volt or max 5 in series 37*5=185
Note 111 and 185 is within range of 95v to 190v

Any more than 5 in series and any less than 3 in series is out of range for driver specification

Doing 2 is parallel is something I would not recommend.
Can someone more experienced please advise !!!
 
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