For All Cap Ebb and Grow Users
- Thread starter pluto420
- Start date
yea they are all in flowering now so its probably not a good idea to top at this point.. what happened is i was waiting to move to hook up my ebb n gro but wanted to have plants ready to go into the system straight into flowering. so i set up a cheap diy ebb n flow table and grew in that but ended up staying at the old house longer than expected. so the plants outgrew the table and tent to the point that the plants in the middle got crowded and eventually overgrown by the others. like 5 of the 16 were quite a bit smaller when i finally pulled them out of the table.. but even those are like 2-3 ft now in the first week of flower, the big ones are like 4 ft going into flowering. this thing grows monsters im gonna end up outrgrowing my flowering space now.
what is good res temp for this system to prevent root rot? im guessing the res needs to be colder than usual due to the water sitting in the buckets and hoses.. i have a chiller but my basement has been getting too hot and i have since developed a bit of rot. they were pearly white until things started heating up recently. planning on running heisenbergs tea also so im not sure what is too cold for the benes
buckets buy you height and the ability to move plants. they are better than tables in most every way, though they take a little longer (slightly) to setup. you can also put a table on the floor and use a brain bucket tot he side, same as the buckets, but you still can't move plants around for access and ordering. the buckets give you a lot of options if you don't need to run something like 4 plants per square foot. if you need one plant per sq foot or two, the buckets rock. the 2gal can support over 4oz worth of root mass. 4oz x 9 plants under a 1k is 36 oz's pretty easily if your environment is decent.
Bluecheesy
Active Member
I'm about to harvest out of my 5 gallon square buckets and I have clones that are 4 weeks into flower in one gallon square pots on a flood table with hydroton in pots and a little in bottom of tray. Would I be able to flood that tray and pull out the one gallon pot and just set it inside the 5 gallon pot and put hydroton underneath and around pot inside the 5 gallon and flood like normal. Or would it be better to take them out of one gallon pot then put in 5 gallon? The roots are coming out of the bottom of the one gallon into the tray pretty good. The pictures show both pots I just want to put the little one in the big one and continue flooding and flowering. Would I run into problems doing that? 
I want to thank everyone who's contributed to this thread (took me 3 weeks!!). I've been growing in ebb and grow buckets for over 10 years and I've learned more from reading this thread than any other resource that's been available to me. I think with my experience, and the knowledge learned from here, I'm gonna take my game to the next level. I plan on mastering this system then move on to the next hydro adventure. Thank you all, and happy holidays.
ejwilson
Well-Known Member
I have 2 of these cap systems and the leafs to every plant are starting to droop down. I'm in my 3rd week of flowering and i have it set up to water 3 times a day for 15 minutes while the lights are on.. I have hydroton and a 4" Rockwell in every bucket. Idk what im doing wrong. Am I watering 2 little or 2 much?
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NeverOutgunned
Well-Known Member
look up 2 gallon strainer bags on amazon,.
mesh bags to wrap around your inner bucket, no more cleaning out rocks and debris from the bottom of your outer bucket or controller.
mesh bags to wrap around your inner bucket, no more cleaning out rocks and debris from the bottom of your outer bucket or controller.
SheepsBlood
Well-Known Member
CAP system is fine, no matter how many people bitch that they don't drain completely. Actually, that is good they don't. It act's like a hempy bucket. Protection on the back end.
I have some CAP buckets but most of mine are ActiveAqua.
I feed every 3 hours, nothing during lights off.
I have used expanded clay, sunleaves grow stones, and GrowStone. I don't like GrowStone, sure it's light, it's white, and has micro pores. Though, it raises PH due to being silica based, and isn't very reusable.
As for nutrients. JR Peters Hydropnics 3-2-1 technique all the way through and no bloom boosters.
I spray Snow Storm on them once a week all the way through. NO MOLD AND NO BUD ROT. SUCK IT!
I use Hydroguard and change the VEG tank every 2 weeks and the Flower every week. I also run a chiller at 68F for each 55 gallon tank.
I do a perpetual grow. Yielding 2lbs each month from 2 rooms. I basically veg in one and throw them in and then, a month later throw the next batch in, then pull one out and throw more in...
It's not as efficient in the end as 3 separate rooms would be but I am in a small space with 5K of lighting total.
I DON'T use hose clamps. I haven't had a leak and this system is 2 years old.
supdro
Well-Known Member
Let's see some your pics with that Peters nutrient I have use maxi and veg+bloom this is the next dry I would like to try
SheepsBlood
Well-Known Member
I just checked my alerts, so I will get some photos up tomorrow.
I just chopped this months harvest. Yielded 2.5 lbs, 8 plants. I had a lapse, that's why I only had 8 growing vs my typical 16 going in the bloom room each month. Though with 16, I yield about 2 per 8 plants. So of course total is around 4lbs. If I put effort into doing ScROG I know you can potentially get 7 lbs per 4000watts. (less than 2% was small/fluff)
Stanky Dank and like a christmas tree. I will upload photos of current line.
Previously, I stated 2 lbs. That is an average over 12 months. I do a major shut down in the fall do to my outdoor summer harvest and cleaning/upgrading the grow rooms each year. Maybe this year I can successfully say I grow 4 lbs each month steady.
So yes, realistically, if you did a full run and not my way of perpetual, you would get up to 8 lbs possibly. Though that would only be every 3 months. If you had 2 5x5 rooms with 4000 watts each, you could get a solid 7 - 8 lbs each month.
Plus, you don't have to run two systems, but you will have to check water level daily. My plants suck up about 4 gallons per day in flower. Part of it is plants, the other is probably dehumidification. I don't reclaim my dehumidifier water, maybe this year if I upgrade to a split AC.
Eric WILSON
Member
Won't the rockwool cube be soaked all the time ?
Hope people are around, I liked forever, purchaseing one second hand but fairly new tomorrow and I am gonna have questions, it's a 12 pot cap system with 55 gal res I believe. Running green planet nutrients gp3 gonna switch to pure blend pro seems to be easier to get, I'm in a dumb state so I'm just doing "veggies". My space is 8x8 cap 4 light controller 2000watts in cool tubes, getting actual vented hoods soon. Just seedlings now so not really feeding yet just super thrive and pHed water. Was gonna do dwc bubble buckets. I have gro experience with the pureblend pro in a 50/50 perlite Coco mix and had excellent results. Hoping for the same or better in a 12 site ebb and grow with pure blend. Unless I can find someone that doesn't take a month to ship my nutes. Any advice appreciated
So got the system up and running, I'll post pics tomorrow. It was all clogged up, got her clean and washed and everything transplanted. What a nightmare to clean the damn thing, I see why the previous owners crop didn't work out, gotta clean it once in a while.
Mmcary82
Well-Known Member
The old Capp ebb and gro systems are okay. I would recommend raising the inner bucket over a inch because the buckets don’t drain compleatly. You can use hydroton or a few cutoff pieces of pvc, that way your roots arnt sitting in stagnant water. The new grow flow buckets are a better design they drain from the bottom and will work with your old system. Overall it’s a good system. If your growing in straight hydroton your going to want to flood every 2 or 3 hours durring the lights on period. If you have any questions on it let me know.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I haven't used an ebb and gro system but I like the concept. I hear of users having issues with the float switch mechanisms though. My idea was to apply their controller to a system using larger size sites, reservoir and pumps. Something I would like to play around with someday. Do you know what is the difference between the old style and the new style as far as the controller part is concerned? Is it reliable? Should I just build my own?
The ebb and grow systems are awsome, the capp system is junk, the floats get stuck , it's not hard to make a industrial strength one with a good times and good floats, I have some pictures on my computer back home showing how to make one, you could make the buckets as large as you need, when I get back home I will also post a picture if you want of the plants I am growing under double neders now, freaking massive plants for indoors , the room is not set correctly yet as am helping another grower raise production and quality up, this is in Michigan, I have to hand it to you , you have skills,