CXB3590 350mA Build

L

LeanMcsheen

Active Member
Been planning this for a while now, I've had all the part for a few weeks but my free time has been a little limited to get it underway. Only have half done so far, the other half will be made when I get around to finishing my grow space.

Parts:
24 x CXB3590CB (72V)
4 x HLG120H-C350B
6 x 110cm lengths of this heatsink
Arctic silver 5
600V Wire
Wago Connectors
Soldering Iron + Solder
Kapton Tape
Clear Parcel Tape
Iso-propyl Alcohol
Squeegee



First, the data courtesy of @SupraSPL
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The COBs
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The Drivers
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Tinned the solder pads
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Measure out the heastinks for COB placement
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Apply the clear parcel tape over the square where the COB will sit and then cut out the square
gallery_45398_10760_196064.jpg


Clear the area with the ISO-propyl alcohol and apply the Arctic Silver 5, spreading it out evenly with the squeegee
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Remove the tape
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Apply the cob, pressing firmly while avoiding the LES (yellow part) to ensure good contact.
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One bar mostly done
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Use the Kapton Tape to secure the COB and then solder the COBs in series using the 600V wire
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Each driver can run 6 CXB3590 in series so wiring wasn't as 'clean' as my mild ocd would like lol.

All in position
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Hook it up to two of the drivers (forgot to take pics but i'm sure you all know what it would look like). The drivers are all running off of one plug using the 5way WAGO connectors.

Let there be light!
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So this is 300 watts running at 58.72% efficiency. Like I said, this is just half way, the other half will have to wait for now. I chose to have the lights stationary simply because of the voltage. I'd rather move the plants up and down than risk a 430V shock... I also have a pretty bad Thrip infestation that I should be able to tackle tomorrow if I get the time, so I'll not be putting plants under these for a few weeks yet I imagine.

Peace bongsmilie
 
Very nice! How's the heatsink temp?

I'm estimating 6,800 CM^2 of surface area for your heatsink, or about 68CM^2/w
 
Last edited:
bicit said:
Very nice! How's the heatsink temp?
Click to expand...
I don't have a thermocouple or a temp gun so I can't give the actual °C but it's a little hotter than I thought it would be, too hot to hold for a prolonged period. I didn't have any extraction or circulation fans on though so it might drop a touch when everything is up and running. I'll see if I can get a simple digital meat thermometer to give me a rough idea
 
LeanMcsheen said:
I don't have a thermocouple or a temp gun so I can't give the actual °C but it's a little hotter than I thought it would be, too hot to hold for a prolonged period. I didn't have any extraction or circulation fans on though so it might drop a touch when everything is up and running. I'll see if I can get a simple digital meat thermometer to give me a rough idea
Click to expand...

Might help to put a few PC fans up there just to circulate the air if nothing else.
 
LeanMcsheen said:
I don't have a thermocouple or a temp gun so I can't give the actual °C but it's a little hotter than I thought it would be, too hot to hold for a prolonged period. I didn't have any extraction or circulation fans on though so it might drop a touch when everything is up and running. I'll see if I can get a simple digital meat thermometer to give me a rough idea
Click to expand...

As an added precaution, you should also ground the heat sinks to prevent them from floating at 430V if a wire comes loose and touches the sink. If grounded, it should cause the breaker to trip, or for the driver to go into short circuit protection mode.
 
Sorry if I missed it, but are you using just aluminum flat bar? Did you mean to make "this heatsink" a link?
 
bicit said:
Might help to put a few PC fans up there just to circulate the air if nothing else.
Click to expand...
I was thinking of possibly doing this but cutting a hole with a circle saw through the plasterboard to access the cold air from the wall cavity. Pop a pc fan over it to bring in cool air.

churchhaze said:
As an added precaution, you should also ground the heat sinks to prevent them from floating at 430V if a wire comes loose and touches the sink. If grounded, it should cause the breaker to trip, or for the driver to go into short circuit protection mode.
Click to expand...
I was advised by an electrician on another forum that there was no point, here is a quote from his post


The only reason for me posting in here is to say don't bother grounding the heat sinks, that driver has an isolated output so an earth won't work because theres no return path.

jtizzle said:
Sorry if I missed it, but are you using just aluminum flat bar? Did you mean to make "this heatsink" a link?
Click to expand...

It is linked isn't it? It is when i view it. I'll underline it to make it more pronounced when I get chance tonight
 
The heatsinks can be grounded directly to the ground wire from the AC side. So if the heatsink becomes live from a short to heatsink on the DC side, the driver will shut the circuit down before it can "surprise" you..

I come up with 7142cm²/bar, 91.6W dissipation, 78cm²/W which should be good for passive especially considering you are running at 59% efficiency. Will be curious to hear how your heatsink temps turn out once the circulation and ventialtion fans are in.

Awesome efficiency man! I am in the process of building a similar setup, so far running 8 COBs and looking very good.
 
So we should be grounding the heatsinks and not the drivers? Wtf?! As a goal of running only one plug is sounds like the heatsink should be the one going into my ground prong and not the hlgs?
 
SupraSPL said:
The heatsinks can be grounded directly to the ground wire from the AC side. So if the heatsink becomes live from a short to heatsink on the DC side, the driver will shut the circuit down before it can "surprise" you..

I come up with 7142cm²/bar, 91.6W dissipation, 78cm²/W which should be good for passive especially considering you are running at 59% efficiency. Will be curious to hear how your heatsink temps turn out once the circulation and ventialtion fans are in.

Awesome efficiency man! I am in the process of building a similar setup, so far running 8 COBs and looking very good.
Click to expand...

Thing is, if a wire does come loose i'll be able to tell because the sting will go out. If there is a string out i'll unplug the lights to find the bad connection. I double checked my soldering anyway to make sure it was secure and that I wouldn't have this very thing happen.

I got the same figures, I'll post the results when I get everything up and running. It's just finding the time to finish this project at the moment, life is busy right now.

You will have to post your new project for everyone to see bongsmilie

Peace
 
When ungrounded, it is possible for the heatsink to become live and the string to remain lit (in the case that only one lead is energizing the heatsink) That said, I have been running a 430V setup without completing the grounding of the heatsinks, but I am very careful not to touch them LOL
 
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