Plant problems under LED

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Tazbud

Well-Known Member
I doubt there is a fault in design, it's a bit of an odd go-to for some of these guys :???:
I had similar struggles, light intensity fluctuation good canopy temps yet low soil/ambient temps. Deficiencies came later.
Large Pots and underfloor heating (greenhouse tube) helped eliminate early dramas.
 
gk skunky

gk skunky

Well-Known Member
Since everyone has touched on light amounts and their proximity. Is he recycling grow media? Sure it's not a pH and/or over fert issue? Too much light isn't as prone to eagle claw top type of leaves as much as 3 things. 1. Over fertilization whether through normal feeding or recycling soil. 2. pH is drifting big time 3. Not watering enough and allowing the media to dry out too much. I would investigate those 3 scenarios first.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
I haven't asked about some of those things, mainly because he's got his methods down to a science in the context of what he's been working with. Perhaps the plants are requiring more water and he's not responding. I'm sure he doesn't reuse soil, and only starts adding ferts in flower. I'll be taking a look at things Monday so will keep that in mind.

I'll try to get him to set up a second veg space (he has the room) and keep the lamp and start from seed. I know the guy well, so worst case I'll give him the money back and let him keep the lamp if he'll run a second veg space so eventually he will end up buying it.

Mainly I want to get a better understanding of why this happens in transition as it could be helpful in the future. Prime candidates so far are increased water needs, root development not able to absorb nutrients fast enough, possible soil deficiencies or even leaf response issues to excessive light exposure. He uses decent soil so I'm not going to focus on soil deficiencies.
 
KarmaPaymentPlan

KarmaPaymentPlan

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
I haven't asked about some of those things, mainly because he's got his methods down to a science in the context of what he's been working with. Perhaps the plants are requiring more water and he's not responding. I'm sure he doesn't reuse soil, and only starts adding ferts in flower. I'll be taking a look at things Monday so will keep that in mind.

I'll try to get him to set up a second veg space (he has the room) and keep the lamp and start from seed. I know the guy well, so worst case I'll give him the money back and let him keep the lamp if he'll run a second veg space so eventually he will end up buying it.

Mainly I want to get a better understanding of why this happens in transition as it could be helpful in the future. Prime candidates so far are increased water needs, root development not able to absorb nutrients fast enough, possible soil deficiencies or even leaf response issues to excessive light exposure. He uses decent soil so I'm not going to focus on soil deficiencies.
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start the light as far away as possible and lower as needed would be one of my instructions for the light at least it might stretch before cooking next time
 
bizfactory

bizfactory

Well-Known Member
I started my clones under some CXB3070s after a transplant from solo cups but kept the lamp high and the power turned down to roughly half...which I'm assuming is about 700ma. I was a bit concerned about blasting them right away. I didn't have any issues but I have noticed some serious calmag issues under this white light.

I'm very interested in how this turns out. I've told a few people that I'll build them a lamp but this scares me a bit. Especially when you are trying to convince a long time HPS guy that what I'm building is the future!

Best of luck to you and your friend.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
He's bought a 600w bulb and ballast and has it turned down to 50%.... not as bright as the 200w LED. The LED lamp was sitting on his floor for a couple weeks. I just picked it up tonight. Now I seek another victim :twisted:

It is bothersome. I've always used Vero and this is my first time dealing with CXBs. However I used an emitter from the same batch at 50 watts to sprout 30 some pepper plants and grew them to a couple inches before switching them to a permanent Vero 18 fixture prior to putting them in the garden. The peppers seemed to do just fine under the CXBs.

I have someone else who I think is going to play with it in a spare veg tent. They know each other and the first guy warned the second guy. Fair enough... but I suspect it will work out fine.
 
Jeeyah

Jeeyah

Well-Known Member
Same thing happened to me. I put my vegging plants under COB lights. I had one light going in flower for a while, and it seemed great. I put some good size girls under COB's, and all the leaves clawed, The stems turned red. It hurts to look at them.

I turned down the HLG's, added some Epsom salts to the mix, cranked the ppm's up a little higher, and gave them some good runoff. (Coco) They look like a nightmare. They show symptoms similar to HPS shock. That used to drive me crazy. It seems they they don't need a lot of intensity until around week 3 of flower.
 
T

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
Mg, Ca or Sulphur deficient. This is my third run under white LED (DNA Lemon Kush and HSO Blue Dream), this time the BD looked a little chloritic almost from the start, probably from the start. Haven't grown before.. it could just be a hungry gal? I chased it with Calmag last run and it did take several weeks before they looked truly healthy (from when I had no further dramas). So a few days back out came the Calmag. This time I mixed in half strength, also half strength Powerfeed (Kelp based NPK), Season (tonic) and a squeeze of Aloe (they must be stressed, regardless). Soil drench/watering as well as spray.

It's one of these! lol. Next time I will isolate them, it could just be the combo Calmag with a increase feeding, the effect on BD has been dramatic, no more than a few days and they look happy and healthy.
 
Norml56

Norml56

Well-Known Member
I've never run into these types of issues using soil. I've always preferred using soil over bottles because it always seemed like a pain in the ass with everything else that comes with bottles, and now I have another reason to stay with soil.
 
its.always.420

its.always.420

Well-Known Member
U guys having so much problems under LED, what temps are you running? Day and night?

I'm finding that keeping a tight DIF + lights on temps in mid 80's gives much better results and cuts down on calmag needs
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Rahz said:
I've been trying to get my buddy into LED and he bought a lamp from me finally. Problem is, the plants are withering under the light. He grows in soil, veg chamber is 3x3. Was previously using a 150w MH lamp.

The lamp I built him uses 4 CXB3070s 3000K 200w output. Lamp was placed about 20 inches above the canopy. Within several days all the plants stems are turning purple and the leaves are banana curling. He pulled most of the plants out but left one in. The plants he pulled out are recovered in the flower chamber. The one he left in looks bad, some leaves are dried up completely. He also has some clones he placed in the veg chamber and they look bad as well. It's only been a couple days and they should look like they just came off the plant, but they're a bit wilted and stems turning purple.

So any opinions on what the problem is?
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So here we are folks. White leds hit the mkt but they did not come alone. They brought LedDefficiency along with them.
I said this term about 18mo ago give or take 6 months. And people here called me crazy.
Well, here it is dating back to "15".
Prime example.
There are 1000's more posts like this out there yet i was the bad guy for giving it a name? SMH! Some just can't accept the truth after dumping coin into something.
A Defficient light source will create a defficient plant unless 90% of the proper changes are made. 50% of those changes relate to spectrum imo. The other 25/25% is environment & feed as well as feeding pattern.
Honesty goes a long way with me & Rahz has always been one of the honest ones.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Still not sure what the problem was at that particular location. I've used various brands of white emitters, various K and CRI ratings, and had success with all of them. I'm playing around with CMH in an area. Doing well but so far I don't see a reason to quit using white LEDs. If I built a lamp today I would do something similar to what I did with my test lamps. CLU085-1825s at 50w each or maybe Vero29SE at 45w each, or maybe 25w each.
 
Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
Still not sure what the problem was at that particular location. I've used various brands of white emitters, various K and CRI ratings, and had success with all of them. I'm playing around with CMH in an area. Doing well but so far I don't see a reason to quit using white LEDs. If I built a lamp today I would do something similar to what I did with my test lamps. CLU085-1825s at 50w each or maybe Vero29SE at 45w each, or maybe 25w each.
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In my (admittedly limited) experience, it's environment more than anything. When I can manage to keep my VPD right, I have happy plants - under straight 80CRI, 3000k.
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Rahz said:
Still not sure what the problem was at that particular location. I've used various brands of white emitters, various K and CRI ratings, and had success with all of them. I'm playing around with CMH in an area. Doing well but so far I don't see a reason to quit using white LEDs. If I built a lamp today I would do something similar to what I did with my test lamps. CLU085-1825s at 50w each or maybe Vero29SE at 45w each, or maybe 25w each.
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Try adding a few 660+740nm around the cob that is at least 35k.
Might be worth the SBS To you. Never know till you try.
 
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