Al B. FAQt

[Al B. Fuct]

CG, you're right, knowing where to stop can be tricky. There's a bell-curve to this- not enough, just right and dead.

The trick with nutes is to use enough to get plants without deficiencies but not so much as to produce nute burns. Once you pass the peak of your bell curve, more nutrients will cause a reduction in growth.

If you like, you can grow a few plants at the same time that you give nutes of differing strengths to, perhaps 200ppm between each sample, and see for yourself which produces burns or deficiencies, etc. Bear in mind that before doing such testing, all other conds in the op have to be spot on so you are sure that when you see some symptom in the plants, you can be sure it is caused by the difference in nute strength as opposed to something like excessive air temp, for example.

800ppm does sound a bit low, though. I run my tanks at 1400.

 

[stickyicky77]

LOL and the falafel I had for lunch makes me a terrorist too, huh?
And my Persian rug?
and , oh yeah! buying gas and oil!

(I gotta go to Cuba/Gitmo and turn my self in. But getting a Cubano sandwich first!)

(just playing on your post)

If you saw the movie Harold and Kumar go to guantanamo bay,it wouldn't be a Cuban sandwich that you would be eating lol...

 

[stickyicky77]

Welcome back AL.

 

[Al B. Fuct]

Thanks, sticky.

While I'm thinking of it, I should probably comment about the relative importance of the things you provide to the plant. Nutes are really a rather small part of the deal. Their job is to present the nutes the plant needs in sufficient quantity and in proper ratio to one another. In example, flowering nutes have a high ratio of P to N & K.

Presuming all the macro and micro nutes are available to the plants, nutrient from Joe's is as good as Jim's. Nutes from larger makers are more likely to be of consistent quality due to their need to maintain a reputation and the fact that they make up very large batches at a time, reducing variability between each jug. On the other hand, I've seen 'house brand' nutes, mixed up in the back room of Ye Locale Hydroe Shoppe, grow very fine plants- and for a lot less dough than big name nutes.

Of the things you should get right in your grow op, the list is topped by assuring mechanical reliability of electrics and watering systems- failures can be catastrophic. Safety has to be job #1, you don't need advice from the fire department on problems in your grow op. Next, powerful, high-intensity lighting suited to the size of the area and tight temp control, ideally to to 25C, +/- 1C. Pathogen control is a biggie; H2O2 applied correctly in the nutes prevents any root probs and a sulfur 'burner' both stops existing and future outbreaks of powdery mildew, common in indoor grows. Root probs and powdery mildew are big yield cutters. Then I'd consider nutes.

90% of running a succesful op is simply keeping stuff from going wrong!

 

[KidCreole]

ok so first off let me start by saying that "he is as a god"... ok now that thats outta my system, i need a little advice please. Ive only got one girl as this is my first grow and I really didnt wanna mess up too many plants so i just have one. anyway, shes about three weeks into flower and shes startin to show me how much she loves daddy and produce "major poundage!" lol (shout out to w33d b4r0n) my problem is...spidermites. now, ive already started her on a nicotiene tea diet being sprayed down twice a week right now and i let it sit for about 30 mins then i hose her off. am i doing more harm than good? will she taste like a cigarette? I just want my lil three foot bagseed sativa plant to show something for all the people ive bothered on this site. she doesent look any worse for wear, but shes tinted brown and smells like american spirit tobacco! also,do those fingers look normal to you? somebody throw my newbie ass a lifeline!

 

[Al B. Fuct]

ok so first off let me start by saying that "he is as a god"...

You know, I really wish people wouldn't do that. I do cringe when people call me a 'god' etc. My ego is pretty ok- and I'm an atheist to boot. It would suck pretty hard to not be able to believe I exist.

ok now that thats outta my system,

and out of mine, too...

"major poundage!" lol (shout out to w33d b4r0n)

I'm pretty sure Stoney's somewhere nearby.

my problem is...spidermites.

arrgh. The heartbreak of spider mites. And yours have been pretty busy.

now, ive already started her on a nicotiene tea diet being sprayed down twice a week right now and i let it sit for about 30 mins then i hose her off. am i doing more harm than good? will she taste like a cigarette?

Probably won't taste like a cig unless you're burning your tabac before making the nicfit tea. Nicotine does work as in insecticide in proper quantity, but it doesn't look like it's working for you. I might add some insecticidal soap (or a few drops of plain old dish soap) as a wetting agent and allow it to dry on the plants instead of removing it.

Spider mites are complete bastards. They can become resistant to most insecticides, especially with sub-lethal dosages. You may well have just given your mites a pretty heavy fag habit. Watch out for mites nicking your smokes.

You have to TOTALLY clean, vacuum & sterilise the grow area (and areas in the house on the path to it- mites don't respect doorways much) and bomb it and the plants stupid with something from the heavy artillery department. Mites got in form outside- somehow. Treat or destroy infested plants near the entry to the house. Azaleas in particular are mite hotels. They really deserve death anyway... because they're fucking azaleas!

Look for "Avid," "Dead Red" or any other miticide product containing 'abamectin' aka 'avamectin.' Clean/vac first then spray, spray, spray, EVERYTHING- room, plants, general vicinity to the grow room entry- every day for 3 consecutive days. You want to make sure you get all the toughies who sit around snorting Raid & Black Flag while you're not looking. Abamectin is a short-acting insecticide, though there is a 14 day withholding (no harvest) period after application.

I don't like your chances, sorry... that plant is really badly infested. In future, keep an eye out on the lower leaves first for the characteristic leaf damage caused by mites. When only a leaf or two are showing damage, you may have a chance of getting the upper hand.

Before starting your next grow, clean, vac & blast the area with miticide. Keep in mind that unless you get ALL of them (and their eggs), the ones that remain will be resistant to the miticide you're using.

 

[Al B. Fuct]

Did I mention to get rid of the vac bag immediately after vacuuming the grow room?

I didn't?

What an idiot.

Get rid of the vac bag immediately after vacuuming. Remove it from the vacuum cleaner OUTDOORS, bag and bin it.

 

[reefcouple]

i'm on board... thanks AL

 

[DR. VonDankenstine]

how are u my friend? hope things are well with ya.

 

[Al B. Fuct]

i'm on board... thanks AL

no wucking furries.

how are u my friend? hope things are well with ya.

All's as normal as it's ever gonna get around here, thanks for asking.

 

[BigBudBalls]

arrgh. The heartbreak of spider mites. And yours have been pretty busy.

Spider mites are complete bastards. They can become resistant to most insecticides, especially with sub-lethal dosages. You may well have just given your mites a pretty heavy fag habit. Watch out for mites nicking your smokes. .

Hey Al (or should I say 'Potacus', the greek god of dubies), I read somewhere that a high dose of CO2, 5000ppm I think it was, for 15-20 minutes can kill off bugs. Probably won't kill eggs and larvae. Just thinking its near organic, no nasty poisons, and no lingering oils or such. (and its dry, no bud rot)

Any comments on it?

 

[reefcouple]

Hey Al (or should I say 'Potacus', the greek god of dubies), I read somewhere that a high dose of CO2, 5000ppm I think it was, for 15-20 minutes can kill off bugs. Probably won't kill eggs and larvae. Just thinking its near organic, no nasty poisons, and no lingering oils or such. (and its dry, no bud rot)

Any comments on it?

i've heard that on a few occasions as well.. good question.... i've heard it like this, close the door and open the co2 wide open, get it to around 5000 for about 2-5 minutes

 

[Al B. Fuct]

I read somewhere that a high dose of CO2, 5000ppm I think it was, for 15-20 minutes can kill off bugs.

Sure, fumigating with CO2 is a great way to kill the bastards. It's kinda exxy as you have to have a tank & regulator handy, but it'll sure work.

It'll kill you too if you're not sensible about opening up the doors & windows in rest of the house while blasting the grow.

 

[Al B. Fuct]

i've heard that on a few occasions as well.. good question.... i've heard it like this, close the door and open the co2 wide open, get it to around 5000 for about 2-5 minutes

I'd hold it at about 30,000ppm for an hour or two. People can still breathe in 30,000 without a respirator for exposures under 15 mins. Expect the mites to have their little masks with them, assholes.

 

[BigBudBalls]

I'd hold it at about 30,000ppm for an hour or two. People can still breathe in 30,000 without a respirator for exposures under 15 mins. Expect the mites to have their little masks with them, assholes.

My meter only goes to 5000ppm (I think) But its not 30K, thats for sure.
Guess I cold to a little measuring/timing to guestimate whats 30K. But I think a good blast should fill up the room.

I don't have any pests but the dang fungus gnats. The fly paper and no pest strips seem to keep it down quite well.

 

[Al B. Fuct]

Yep, 30,000ppm is way beyond anything you should normally have to measure. Yes, do it by the maths, but it's not really necessary to exactly hit my suggested concentration figure. Just gas the fuckers good and hold it at the high level for around an hour. Your gnats don't stand a chance and the plants will just love it.

I use yellow sticky card traps to deal with gnats. Traps enough adults that they don't get the chance to turn my rootballs into 5-star gnat hotels.

You'll never be totally rid of the little bastards; they're everywhere on earth and are attracted by moisture and light. Kill this mob and their mates will show up later on. It's just one of those things in a grow that will require periodic treatment in most cases. Fortunately, gnats are a lot less aggro than spider mites. Things really have to be let go for a long time for gnats to do any damage.

 

[KidCreole]

seriously? damn, i wanted to see this one thru till the end... u think holding on will only let me down? or is there a chance i can fight it out? and by the way, if you dont believe you dont exist, then are we talking to you ar one of stonie's split personlaities?lol anyway thanx for the input, ill keep sprayin her down. they got here from a dumbass friend giving me a totally destroyed plant that was their comvention before i knew what spidermites were...

 

[Al B. Fuct]

yeah, keep after them with the nicotea (double the strength or buy some commercial nicotine insecticide), add a wetting agent, leave it on the plants. Hopefully you'll be able to slow the bastards down a bit. Mites prefer low humidity. Coincidentally, so do big heavy buds which can be susceptible to grey mould/bud rot (botyritis) in late flowering. Bud mould is more probable at >70-75%RH.

You might raise humidity if it's below about 40% to slow down the mites a bit. Could hang a bath towel so it dips in a bucket of water and put it in front of a fan.

 

[Stoney McDoper]

by the way, if you dont believe you dont exist, then are we talking to you ar one of stonie's split personlaities?lol

yes that is true. I tot Al everythign he noes- but not evrything **I*** no!!!

 

[Al B. Fuct]

Stoney, remember, you're the one who suggested small calibre firearms to deal with gnats. No offence, but I take what you say with a pound of rock salt, most times.