I was thinking mix up in several colors of white COBs but, then I think, why bother? Need science, not guess.Except maybe a light that could lean towards veg or bloom with a switch..
But than color mixing becomes a issue..tradeoffs..
Nope. I demand some tongue too, baby!Moving forward is sufficient and maybe a high five?
I wouldn't be so quick to claim such things, EH. Sure, it may be unlikely that one would get different results between using just 4500K or 6000K & 3000K but not every COB is EXACTLY as sold; one may buy a 4000K, and it may truly be 3890K when powered.You really need to be careful on the total blue %. In most cases, 5000k is as high as you need to go. 6500k is just ridiculous. I don't recommend it at all.
Remember, K values are for human vision, not plants. 6500k for CFLs is not the same as 6500k for LEDs.
4000-5000k is all you need for veg with white LEDs.
Also, mixing whites is useless. If you take 1x 6000k LED and 1x 3000k LED, you get 4500k.
6000 + 3000k divided by 2 = 4500k.
It doesn't create a special blend, it's easier just to use the 4500k, or whatever is the middle value of whatever you would otherwise mix. You get the same thing.
I was wondering how true that claim was. This is 2x 4000K vs 3000K and 5000K (CXB3070) in absolute numbers @Test current. Close but not the same.I wouldn't be so quick to claim such things, EH. Sure, it may be unlikely that one would get different results between using just 4500K or 6000K & 3000K but not every COB is EXACTLY as sold; one may buy a 4000K, and it may truly be 3890K when powered.
Interesting. It does support the theory of using differnt spectrums is not worth it vs using the middle ground temp. Borderline with the margin of error for 4k. I imagine that real life testing would be closer to the claimed K temp.I was wondering how true that claim was. This is 2x 4000K vs 3000K and 5000K (CXB3070) in absolute numbers @Test current. Close but not the same.
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I also did CCT calculation (not sure about it's accuracy) and while straight 4000K gives me 4305K, 3000K+5000K gives 3776K.
Well, imagination is not factual. And marketing is not Botany.Created by the CFL gods? Then why did i/they (HID) users use MH and HPS instead of just HPS? I could not imagine vegging under an HPS.... I think it is apparent at least in the extreme case of 2700 vs 4000k node spacing is affected.
MH is a marketing hype. And I don't call them gods. Why do you?Created by the CFL gods? Then why did i/they (HID) users use MH and HPS instead of just HPS? I could not imagine vegging under an HPS.... I think it is apparent at least in the extreme case of 2700 vs 4000k node spacing is affected.
Eh, not so much. Veggin under MH is much nicer than vegging under HPS. I've never done a controlled side by side, but plants tend to stretch more under HPS. Though it may be nicer for cloning having a touch longer node distance.MH is a marketing hype. And I don't call them gods. Why do you?
I think of the whole blue for foliage, red for flowering paradigm as analogous to the "N for veg, P for flowering" bullshit you constantly hear people talking about with so much conviction and authority... of course the difference in requirement for N and P barely changes throughout the plants lifecycle. The same goes for the amount of red and blue. Slightly different SPD for veg and flowering makes a difference in morphology, but there's a reason I posted the blue and red panels on page one... I've seen so many people trying to veg with those blue things back in the mid 2000s... "You don't need any red if you're not flowering!"Well I mean all of it is Hype upon hype
That 6500K is is the best for growth
And neither is 2700k
3750k is the sweet spot to me
HPS and MH. we're the only choices for photon density
And they marketed both with mythology.
Exactly. Pin this post.I think of the whole blue for foliage, red for flowering paradigm as analogous to the "N for veg, P for flowering" bullshit you constantly here people talking about with so much conviction and authority... of course the difference in requirement for N and P barely changes throughout the plants lifecycle. The same goes for the amount of red and blue. Slightly different SPD for veg and flowering makes a difference in morphology, but there's a reason I posted the blue and red panels on page one... I've seen so many people trying to veg with those blue things back in the mid 2000s... "You don't need any red if you're not flowering!"
Also, many people confuse "warm" with red, but it could also be yellow, orange, red, or far red... and when they think cool, they think blue, when cool can be blue, teal, or green... warmer doesn't always mean more red, and cooler doesn't always mean more blue..... etc etc..
Then, there's people who think all 4000k lamps will have a greenish tinge, even though there are many SPD that can amount to 4000k. They conclude that no 4000k lamp can be good, because 4000k is the "spectrum plants can't use". That's not even what color temperature is!!
What kind of wattage are you running those two lamps at? I assume you've used both individually? Will you describe the differences you've noticed?I've been quite happy with my 4000k emitters.
The 2700k 97 cri ones, not so much....
~42 watts. Unfortunately no, I didn't run them separately. I've only run the 4000k on it's own. I may have to give it a run. I have run them 2:1(in both combinations) over tomatoes and herbs. Stretching actually wasn't much of an issue, however it caused plants like basil and spinach to bolt. I removed the 2700k emitters and bolting doesn't seem to be an issue anymore.What kind of wattage are you running those two lamps at? I assume you've used both individually? Will you describe the differences you've noticed?