leaves yellowing 3 1/2 weeks into flowering

B

bluerock

Active Member
funktions said:
How can I detect that ?
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Symptoms I had were leaf yellowing followed by browning out from tip to stem. I verified insects with a strong magnifier and a soil sample. The mites are very tiny, smaller than a period on a white sheet of paper. They will likely be on topside of the soil/rim of container as well as in the soil. If they get real bad, the winged version will appear; that is how they spread.
 
gunnar&carey

gunnar&carey

Well-Known Member
For the first 2-3 weeks of 12/12 ur plants are focused on building up strength and growing to support tthe buds, grow is obviously to help grow the plant so IMO you should feed grow for the first week of flower then half grow half bloom for the other two. I dont even consider my girls in flower intell they stop stretching on top and have more then just a few pistils at the nodes
 
B

bluerock

Active Member
funktions said:
Roots organic original soil
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One of the problems with various potting soils is that the bags have little vent holes in them. The bugs can come in one product and then migrate to another. This happened at a local grow shop. I switched to pro-mix bx (completely sealed bag) and botanicare coco large compressed blocks (also sealed).

It is easy enough to tell if you have bugs. Try to pull an intact soil chunk and watch it closely. Also, in the case of the mites, the affected roots will have a "deflated" look and have become translucent/grayish looking. That being said, it is possible to have them without even knowing it. They are most active in wet conditions. Growers that let the soil get very dry between waterings may not even notice their presence.
 
funktions

funktions

Well-Known Member
bluerock said:
One of the problems with various potting soils is that the bags have little vent holes in them. The bugs can come in one product and then migrate to another. This happened at a local grow shop. I switched to pro-mix bx (completely sealed bag) and botanicare coco large compressed blocks (also sealed).

It is easy enough to tell if you have bugs. Try to pull an intact soil chunk and watch it closely. Also, in the case of the mites, the affected roots will have a "deflated" look and have become translucent/grayish looking. That being said, it is possible to have them without even knowing it. They are most active in wet conditions. Growers that let the soil get very dry between waterings may not even notice their presence.
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Wow daaaam never knew that,I'll check it out right now
 
funktions

funktions

Well-Known Member
bluerock said:
One of the problems with various potting soils is that the bags have little vent holes in them. The bugs can come in one product and then migrate to another. This happened at a local grow shop. I switched to pro-mix bx (completely sealed bag) and botanicare coco large compressed blocks (also sealed).

It is easy enough to tell if you have bugs. Try to pull an intact soil chunk and watch it closely. Also, in the case of the mites, the affected roots will have a "deflated" look and have become translucent/grayish looking. That being said, it is possible to have them without even knowing it. They are most active in wet conditions. Growers that let the soil get very dry between waterings may not even notice their presence.
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Nothing in my soil,bro,soils cool
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
funktions said:
Thought it was nitrogen deficiency, but I may be wrong ,can anyone give me any advice on what's going on
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In flower i regularly do a four week into flower cleanout to remove dead leaf matter. Soil is better for keeping leaves green than coco or sunshine, but there is always some yellowing. Ive found using veg nutes until about four or five feeks after flip helps keep them a little greener longer. The yellowing i can see here looks mostly like normal plant consuming nutrients in fan leaves, causing fan leaves to yellow from the tips back and then eventually causing leaf death when shes taken what she wants from it.
This should have started about a week ago for normal plants and it will keep going until you chop em.
A cool thing to notice about this is that the plant usually eats the leaves that are either in a low light spot, or blocking buds from recieving light. Plants are smart.
 
funktions

funktions

Well-Known Member
Alienwidow said:
In flower i regularly do a four week into flower cleanout to remove dead leaf matter. Soil is better for keeping leaves green than coco or sunshine, but there is always some yellowing. Ive found using veg nutes until about four or five feeks after flip helps keep them a little greener longer. The yellowing i can see here looks mostly like normal plant consuming nutrients in fan leaves, causing fan leaves to yellow from the tips back and then eventually causing leaf death when shes taken what she wants from it.
This should have started about a week ago for normal plants and it will keep going until you chop em.
A cool thing to notice about this is that the plant usually eats the leaves that are either in a low light spot, or blocking buds from recieving light. Plants are smart.
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Thanks alot,bro,so should I keep hitting her with low doses of the sea bird
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
funktions said:
Thanks alot,bro,so should I keep hitting her with low doses of the sea bird
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Ya if your feeding bloom food already which id guess you are then a little more N replacing some of the p and k wont hurt. I wouldnt try to "fix" it with the N because its not going to fix. The greenest grow ive ever done was done in soil, with only veg food 3-1-2. Biggest buds, greenest leaves right to the end almost. Well besides the hydro lol. But ya, i have no idea what your seabirds npk is but if the phosphorus is high then maybe just more of what you used in veg. If its all nitrogen go ahead, but i dont know what your useing enou to make calls on your feed yet.
 
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