CellarDweller
Well-Known Member
Forgive me, but do you mean like this?From an electrical point of view no problems running that on a normal plug in the wall either. I'm not from the uk but at 220 should not be a problem at all
Forgive me, but do you mean like this?From an electrical point of view no problems running that on a normal plug in the wall either. I'm not from the uk but at 220 should not be a problem at all
Wunderbar and thanks again - looking at my diagram, it's amazing how proud someone as artistically challenged as I am can be of a crappy diagram like thatExactly. That way you can get a piece of din rail and mount them all to the rail and put it wherever and it's nice and clean and easy to troubleshoot should a problem arise. If a driver stops working you just take the two leads off and you don't have to disconnect everything else and put it back together
Could be wrong here but quick calculationSo I just got finished making a panel one a 18"x8.5" heat sink with four CXA 3070 3000k AB bin powered by Inventronics 160w 4 channel at 700mA driver. And it's only pulling 112 watts from the wall anyone know why that is? I know it's a cheap driver so that maybe why. I'll be upgrading very soon to a better meanwell driver and adding two more cobs to it.
Well, these are expected values. CXA3070 has Vf about [email protected] dissipating about 25W. x4 = 100W plus losses on the driver. It may be a cheap driver but Inventronics are high quality drivers and there's no need to change if it suits your needs.So I just got finished making a panel one a 18"x8.5" heat sink with four CXA 3070 3000k AB bin powered by Inventronics 160w 4 channel at 700mA driver. And it's only pulling 112 watts from the wall anyone know why that is? I know it's a cheap driver so that maybe why. I'll be upgrading very soon to a better meanwell driver and adding two more cobs to it.
Anyone who has some experience on how far away these 3950 s should be away from the canopy? Trying to figure out the optimal distance people are using so I can calculate the spread of light for each so I can figure out the coverage for each which will help me with spacing of the cobs as well. Any input would be great. Trying to figure out the most efficient way of lighting my scrog with the most even canopy possible
Ha! No worries, friend. My grow will be entirely legal as I live in one of the lucky states with recent new laws. Thanks for the heads up on the HLG-185. I really like the idea of one driver per cabinet, rather than 10 separate units. Could you elaborate a bit on the required potentiometer, and where it goes in the circuit? From my reading of these endless threads it seems the COBs go in series when doing multiples per single driver. If one COB burns out, is there a risk of frying the remaining 4 or does it just open the circuit?Don't thank me, i got nothing to do with this, if the cops fall in, pin-point supra not me
'would four 3000k CXA3070s and one center 5000k at 1.05a do the job for each cabinet' that was my initial plan, i'd go for that setup on 1 HLG-185h-c1050B and a high turn pot, you'd need 100K for 1, supra made me buy this (but it's 50k for 2 drivers at once), it's all his fault lol
Thanks for the help I was actually going to do trig to figure that out lol thanks for giving me what I need to do the calc. I was more interested in what the ideal height would be as to get optimal penetration and was curious what people are running theirs at (what they thought had the right intensity and base my lenses and calculations off of that.Well that's where reflectors/lenses come into play :
You need trigonometry to work out the spread. I just use some triangle app like : http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm
Most of the light leaves bare cobs at a 115° angle, so for 115° :
@30cm distance you cover : 47.1 radius circle (so 154.2cm diameter circle)
@60cm : 94.2 radius circle (so 188.4cm diameter circle)
@90cm : 141.3 radius circle (so 282.3cm diameter circle)
@115° : basically you multiply distance of cob, by 1.57 to get the radius, or 3.14 to get the diameter (Diameter=2R).
@90° it's easy to remember, distance = radius, and diameter = 2*distance
@ 30cm distance, you cover a 60cm circle
@ 60cm distance, you cover a 120cm circle.
@ 90cm distance, you cover 180cm circle ...
Now lets look at 80° (getting close to best) :
@30cm distance, you cover 25.2cm radius, for a 50.4cm diameter circle.
@60cm distance, you cover 50.3cm radius, for a 100.6cm diameter circle.
@90cm distance, you cover 75.5cm radius, for a 151cm diameter circle.
@ 80° : You can multiply distance of cob, by 0.83 to get the radius, then x2 to get diameter of spread circle ..
As you can see, bare cobs just spread out to quickly, 80° is lovely
If you're doing a SCROG, then you are less worried about Penetration (usually).
If you have a 'grid' of bare cobs, ie cobs are in identical rows and columns with equal distance ...
I beleive with 33.3cm spacing you'll get complete coverage at 30cm distance from canopy.
(On a 2D diagram, they would overlap horizontally and vertically, and light would just meet diagonally ... don't know if this is clear enough to visualize ... )
Oh ok makes sense. I'll keep it for a few cycles the. Up grade to two mean wells to power 6 cobs. The heat sink gets kinda warm not hot so I might be able to get away with passive cooling with the four cobsWell, these are expected values. CXA3070 has Vf about [email protected] dissipating about 25W. x4 = 100W plus losses on the driver. It may be a cheap driver but Inventronics are high quality drivers and there's no need to change if it suits your needs.
well i was intersted in knowing if someone else used this holders....just like youAnyone use these type holders and do I need to drill a hole in the heatsink for the locater pin and one for the screw, or just screw?
I used these for my light. You either need to make a hole for the pin or cut the pin off. If you do the later, make sure you hold it still when you screw it down or it will twist.Anyone use these type holders and do I need to drill a hole in the heatsink for the locater pin and one for the screw, or just screw?
thank u imp...I used these for my light. You either need to make a hole for the pin or cut the pin off. If you do the later, make sure you hold it still when you screw it down or it will twist.
It's actually 110lm/W but it could still be pretty decent efficiency with such a low CCT.Saw this at Lowes today. Normally the LEDs you see there are pretty lame but this one stood out at ~ 135lm/ dissipation W and deserves a mention (for human use).
4.2W, 466lumens, 2200K fire/candle light orange color, $15
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