asdfghjkl21
Member
what would the best growing method with soil to achieve max results in 1.2x1.2x.2m tent. my thoughts are about the lights ,what would be the maximun watts u could put in there. around 1kw? or is this unrealistc?
Thoughts of a first grower i need your help
- Thread starter asdfghjkl21
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LetsGetCritical
Well-Known Member
I have a 600 in a same sized tent, 1000 would be better. Temps maybe a concern for you
GrowPops
Well-Known Member
I switched bulbs today and I am having better results with the HPS bulb as far as heat. It finally dawned on me which bulb I was using inside. ..........
Smoke another one bruh
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
What exactly is your goal? Do you want to produce the most bud per run? Most bud over multiple grows? Best quality bud? Is the tent your only option? What is the room like where the tent is going?
If quality is near the top of your list, mix lighting options, don't go with just one light. Lights can be categorized into Reds/Warm (3500k or less, flower production), Blues/Cool (5000k or more, vegitative), and UV (UVA and UVB, UVA for stem structure growth, UVB for resin production)
In flower you want a lot of reds 75% reds, 5w per sqft of UVB 10% bulbs, and the remaining 20% or so in blues. This will help the plant support bigger higher quality buds and improve potency.
A well design vert system using multiple low intensity lights + a smaller HID will result in more bud per grow and be impressive looking and high quality.
A well designed top lighting system (HID + supplemental) will produce 80% the bud in 75% the time and will result in more consistent quality. Over multiple runs a top light system is easier and results in the same or a bit more bud.
Size to about 7500 lumens per square foot, push it to 8-9k if you wish but you will need good cooling and won't likely see much difference without CO2 being added after 7500-8000.
If quality is near the top of your list, mix lighting options, don't go with just one light. Lights can be categorized into Reds/Warm (3500k or less, flower production), Blues/Cool (5000k or more, vegitative), and UV (UVA and UVB, UVA for stem structure growth, UVB for resin production)
In flower you want a lot of reds 75% reds, 5w per sqft of UVB 10% bulbs, and the remaining 20% or so in blues. This will help the plant support bigger higher quality buds and improve potency.
A well design vert system using multiple low intensity lights + a smaller HID will result in more bud per grow and be impressive looking and high quality.
A well designed top lighting system (HID + supplemental) will produce 80% the bud in 75% the time and will result in more consistent quality. Over multiple runs a top light system is easier and results in the same or a bit more bud.
Size to about 7500 lumens per square foot, push it to 8-9k if you wish but you will need good cooling and won't likely see much difference without CO2 being added after 7500-8000.
ShirkGoldbrick
Active Member
If you're just at ambient room temp I imagine 600W would be the max without exhausting out of the room. I have a similar sized tent with 600W of LED and it can get up to 85 degrees in there.
If you can exhaust I'd say:
Get two trays 2ft by 4ft and put them on either side of the tent when you walk in. This will give you just enough space to move round with the trays in there. Put 4 300 watt HPS in with reflector hoods two over each tray.
Get two aquavalves and put them in one corner of each tray, you could probably put them in a 3 gallon pot or something. Fill the rest of the tray up with as many 3 gallon pots as you can fit. fill all the pots (except the ones with the aquavalves) with medium perlite.
Get an external reservoir, like an 18 gallon tote and put in a bulkhead fitting > spigot > adapter to 1/4" tubing that feeds the aquavalves. You'll need a tee since you have two trays. This reservoir needs to be higher than the aquavalves since it feeds them by gravity, set it on a couple milk crates or something
Get 4 of those little clip on fans and clip one to each post of the tent pointing towards the pots. At one open space on the edge of the tent put a 6" carbon filter with fan exhausting out of the tent and room.
That's it. Start your seeds or clones in some rapid rooters and then transplant into the perlite filled buckets. It's almost like hempy buckets. I feed mine dynagrow foliage pro and silica then just pH down a little or up depending on your water source.
If you can exhaust I'd say:
Get two trays 2ft by 4ft and put them on either side of the tent when you walk in. This will give you just enough space to move round with the trays in there. Put 4 300 watt HPS in with reflector hoods two over each tray.
Get two aquavalves and put them in one corner of each tray, you could probably put them in a 3 gallon pot or something. Fill the rest of the tray up with as many 3 gallon pots as you can fit. fill all the pots (except the ones with the aquavalves) with medium perlite.
Get an external reservoir, like an 18 gallon tote and put in a bulkhead fitting > spigot > adapter to 1/4" tubing that feeds the aquavalves. You'll need a tee since you have two trays. This reservoir needs to be higher than the aquavalves since it feeds them by gravity, set it on a couple milk crates or something
Get 4 of those little clip on fans and clip one to each post of the tent pointing towards the pots. At one open space on the edge of the tent put a 6" carbon filter with fan exhausting out of the tent and room.
That's it. Start your seeds or clones in some rapid rooters and then transplant into the perlite filled buckets. It's almost like hempy buckets. I feed mine dynagrow foliage pro and silica then just pH down a little or up depending on your water source.
asdfghjkl21
Member
7
My GOAL is to achieve 700-800g(optimum) from this tent or a simillar one (bigger). I had this tent in my mind so thats why i asked for this. but i try to make a plan in my mind of how this could work? for example would 10 plants vegged for one month and flowered for two or as much as they need coud produce 1kg under 2x600w lamps *hps* in a tent 1.5x1.5.x2m(no top no fhm, only in soil with the neccessary nutrients,generally if we assume that every other thing works fine). i want quality and and big production. do i ask for too much?
i try to think of the simplest way this could work. i ll have ventiliation carbon filters etc . i am aware i need things like that. so my thoughts is how can i exlpoit the tent i choose, how many pots in ur opinion ( u could suggest me a strain too ) so this can happen relatively easy (my goal).how would u get 1kg in 4 months ? how woyld u do it?asdfghjkl21
Member
by the way any suggested strain i need your ideas. 
ShirkGoldbrick
Active Member
Traditional indoor growing, especially as a new grower, you can expect about 0.5g per watt dry weight. To get 1kg you're going to need 2000 watts. If you're growing with 70 watts per sqft that means you need 1000 watts per 14 sqft. In order to get to the plants..you're going to need a bigger tent. The easiest setup would be a 1000 watt light over a 4x4 tray to give you 62 watts per sqft which means you should grow an indica dom plant. Growing in a stadium style will yield you more especially if you go bare bulb but you're going to need a method of controlling heat and the best way to do that is with a minisplit, seal your room, and use a marey 5l or other small water heater to produce co2 if you really want to optimize things.
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
1.2m or 1.5m tent? Again what is the room like it's going in? Size to about 7500-8000 lumens per sqft. 75% red, 25% blue and uvb.
A dimable 1000w HPS + 200-300w of T5HO should let you get there.
I would push the 4mo to 4.5-5mo and do two runs. Setup 9-12 buckets (I do 1 per 1.5sqft), veg for about 2 weeks (from rooted cutting/clone, make that a bit longer for from seed), flip to flower, on week 4 of flower, take cuttings to make clones, root in 100% vermiculite, veg in the vermiculte using hydro nutes at 5.5 PH. At harvest the clones should be ready to be placed into the hydro system after cleanup of previous run.
You will get two runs in just over the 4mo and will get at least 150% what you would get from one longer vert run.
A dimable 1000w HPS + 200-300w of T5HO should let you get there.
I would push the 4mo to 4.5-5mo and do two runs. Setup 9-12 buckets (I do 1 per 1.5sqft), veg for about 2 weeks (from rooted cutting/clone, make that a bit longer for from seed), flip to flower, on week 4 of flower, take cuttings to make clones, root in 100% vermiculite, veg in the vermiculte using hydro nutes at 5.5 PH. At harvest the clones should be ready to be placed into the hydro system after cleanup of previous run.
You will get two runs in just over the 4mo and will get at least 150% what you would get from one longer vert run.
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
Make most of the buckets be networked or recirculating (be ware of heat from recirculating pump, keep it low watts if going recirculating, look at zc-t40 pump), but also keep a couple of solo buckets where you can experiment with different nutrients or whatever. These solo buckets will be able to be disconnected from the air line and moved so you can get into the tent to work but not waste grow space.
asdfghjkl21
Member
nomofatum is a room facing south,dimensions 4x3m,maybe in summer is not as cool as a north room due to facing sun more hours thanks for your time i take into consideration ur suggestions. u made think a lot of things , i realized i have to do a more deep searching so i can acquire more knowledge. i ll come back with more questions i ll be back. shirkglodbrick thank u too the project has to wait sry for not responding immediately to ur messages i have to a lot of things i have to take care theese days
i ll be back. shirkglodbrick thank u too the project has to wait sry for not responding immediately to ur messages i have to a lot of things i have to take care theese days
ShirkGoldbrick
Active Member
NBD,
Yeah I mean you can read all the grow books for starters, but there's a lot of misinformation in those. Hell, there's a lot of misinformation on these forums, but the knowledge is more vast. You need to start reading scientific generals and results of scientific experiments. TBH, even in scientific papers a lot of times you can see the information was all just copied and pasted from various sources and that the writer doesn't have a clue about the topic. Generally, once you get a base of confirmed knowledge (experience comes into play here), you can spot BS - once you see that make sure you confirm anything else you read from that article against other sources because all the information becomes suspect.
Yeah I mean you can read all the grow books for starters, but there's a lot of misinformation in those. Hell, there's a lot of misinformation on these forums, but the knowledge is more vast. You need to start reading scientific generals and results of scientific experiments. TBH, even in scientific papers a lot of times you can see the information was all just copied and pasted from various sources and that the writer doesn't have a clue about the topic. Generally, once you get a base of confirmed knowledge (experience comes into play here), you can spot BS - once you see that make sure you confirm anything else you read from that article against other sources because all the information becomes suspect.
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
The screwed up thing is how many scientific studies contradict each other. Like the what wavelengths are useful for photosynthesis. Every study has a different result, interestingly the more recent ones (RQE) also seem to have a flaw, the instrument used to wasn't able to measure all wavelengths, the charts artificially drops off at the edge of the sensor's capabilities, making many people falsely believe wavelengths above or below that range are of no use, but we can observe the usefulness of those wavelength as well.
The extra screwed up thing is that warning, albeit a bit more vague shows up in the first paragraph or two of the study. People like to ignore the warning...
Basically everything between 280nm and 700nm is usable, the lower the wavelength number the more energy it carries, but also some of the larger wavelengths seem to be much more useful for bud development. The whole range is at least 70% absorbable/usable, spots in the red and blue ranges can exceed 90% usable. With different wavelengths causing different responses in the plants we find that all wavelengths in this range are useful, so I try to hit them all, but hit the more useful ones much harder.
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
It could be a little bit, what the walls are made of will make more of a difference. Concrete likes to absorb the extra heat, regular walls don't. Basement in the corner is the easiest place to keep cool.nomofatum is a room facing south,dimensions 4x3m,maybe in summer is not as cool as a north room due to facing sun more hours thanks for your time i take into consideration ur suggestions. u made think a lot of things , i realized i have to do a more deep searching so i can acquire more knowledge. i ll come back with more questions