(4)CXB3070 & Meanwell HLG-185H-C1400B driver? Want to order tonight!! Need Input!

[Timboy5]

Yea I will be getting some metal brackets when I move, I hate the hangers lol It feels a little jank.

I did clean my rez out today, I noticed small little white pieces floating so I assumed it was salt of some sort. I drained it about half way, scrubbed it out, cleaned the hoses and air stones and cleaned the powerhead. The powerhead had a bunch of gunk collected in the bottom filter attachment. I wasn't sure if I should keep using it or if having the large intake would be bad considering roots could be sucked up in. I am doing all of this because as I said I have some leaves turning up on the edges and was given the comment that the plant is "too green" for second week of flower and the beginning of nitrogen toxicity was brought up.

What do you guys think?!?!

I do have a box fan blowing on the plants about 3ft away, it is on low. All of the plants aren't doing it, only some leaves on some of the plants. The PPM has stayed at around 850 and they drank about a gallon of water in the last two days, maybe beginning nute lock out?

Air- 70F, 60% humidity
Rez- 65F, 850PPM

1. Close up of the turning
2. Turning primarily on new top growth

What PH and PPM are you feeding also you said lucas in DWC right? How big are the plants.

edit sorry I see you said 850ppm what scale is that? That is too high even if it is 0.7 scale.

I personally would drop that PPM to about 100ppm cal mag + 300ppm lucas. 400 total (0.5 scale) and I would make sure the pH is kept between 5.5 and 6.2 if you notice your ph drifts upwards then mix them fresh nutes at 5.5 and let it swing to 6.2 before doing anything.

 

[apoulin]

Any lenses? I am running about the same wattage in a 2x3' (testing) and it's only warm about 6" away. I'd say it's something else your not pounding them with photons to the point they'd recoil. Only time I noticed a significant difference in heat was adding the lens but even then your talking 12"

What's your RH? May be making them crisp with how fast they could be transpiring. I've done it before with RH in 18-20% range.

That and what are you running? Soil or hydro. Did you recently reamend or anything that stands out like that.

Hydro DWC. No lenses, you are right it is only warm within 1' of the LED.
I originally had organic nutes running throughout veg and had root issues, there was always excessive build up causing nute lockout I believe (slow growth, weak looking roots, plant stems turning purple, leaves starting to curl up at edges). I changed to Flora series using Lucas formula and they loved it. Roots exploded with new white strong roots everywhere, foliage exploded and really filled out. They are all trained so they are bushing out, just some of the leaves are turning up at the edges and getting some spots on a few.

My thermometer says 70F and 65%humidity, not sure if that is RH or not? It is just a cheap thermometer with humidity dial on bottom, is that the same humidity? I did put a box fan in the closet this last week and have it about 3' away on low.

1.Turning up on edges
2.New undergrowth looking rough
3.Fan leaf getting spots and turning edges up
4.Pic of the babies, to my eye they look healthy but there are a few leaves that are troubling
5.Roots, they have been in 350PPM 68F res for 4 days now, will be adding more food in a few days. Just want to make sure roots are fully recovered from suspected lockout.

 

[apoulin]

Yea the high PPM was before Lucas, since Lucas it as been at around 600. But I think you are right with over-fertilizing them, they do great for a while and then slowly look sad, I flush them and they look like they are recovering.

My PH stays between 5.5-6.5 since using Lucas, I have calmag+ so I can add some of that. Right now they are in PH~6 @ ~350PPM w/tap and Bloom only. I will say that since cleaning the res and running this solution there has been new root growth. I am just hoping I am not still causing damage, they are 2 weeks into flower and I have only 1 I think is showing sex, I don't want to stress them so I have been trying to take the nute solution easy

 

[apoulin]

How big are the plants.

They are trained so not very tall, maybe about 10". They all have 5+ nodes and trunks about as thick as my pinky, the stems and leaves still are flexible and feel healthy and strong. Starting to emit a slight stank

 

[Timboy5]

Yea the high PPM was before Lucas, since Lucas it as been at around 600. But I think you are right with over-fertilizing them, they do great for a while and then slowly look sad, I flush them and they look like they are recovering.

My PH stays between 5.5-6.5 since using Lucas, I have calmag+ so I can add some of that. Right now they are in PH~6 @ ~350PPM w/tap and Bloom only. I will say that since cleaning the res and running this solution there has been new root growth. I am just hoping I am not still causing damage, they are 2 weeks into flower and I have only 1 I think is showing sex, I don't want to stress them so I have been trying to take the nute solution easy

a little ppm goes a long way in DWC, i think your issue was caused by too high of a ppm and since you have fixed that it will come out of it. Roots look good.

 

[apoulin]

a little ppm goes a long way in DWC, i think your issue was caused by too high of a ppm and since you have fixed that it will come out of it. Roots look good.

I hope so, I have learned a lot about nutes and res maintenance. The roots have come a long way that is for sure! Thanks for the quick replies man, I have been checking them every hour or so.

 

[Scotch089]

That curl doesn't look like overfert... it'd be tip burn. where the loss of color is scattered overfert is of all around the serrations.

Do you foliar with anything? The curl points me towards some kind of environment issue.

 

[apoulin]

That curl doesn't look like overfert... it'd be tip burn. where the loss of color is scattered overfert is of all around the serrations.

Do you foliar with anything? The curl points me towards some kind of environment issue.

No foliar. Only a fan and lamps, had a humidifier for a few weeks when the heat was on because it was dry but that is not on anymore and humidity still >55%

 

[Scotch089]

How close is that fan. Is it oscillating or just aimed at them. Could very well be wind burn. Google some pics I'm at work but I remember that looking very similar.

 

[apoulin]

How close is that fan. Is it oscillating or just aimed at them. Could very well be wind burn. Google some pics I'm at work but I remember that looking very similar.

Non oscillating About 3' away, I did look that up but a lot of comments said that it would affect more than a few leaves, there are closer leaves that aren't curling or having any problems. Think it could still be wind burn?

I will shut the fan off to make sure though, it is on 24/7 usually. Been keeping temps under 75F

 

[Scotch089]

Yea it could be. At this point I'm putting money on environment, and if you're keeping it under 75° lights on, with the fan, what's it getting down to at lights out. I had wind burn before and my explanation was I was drying them out too fast for their rate of transpiration.

I found my sweet spot under leds to be 77-78° and they loved every second of it, maybe it's because they don't put out the IR bands HIDs do or what. But I have noticed they love it a touch warmer. I think g concurred.

Might as well try killing the fan, at least at night, if you have one of the dual outlet timers that'd be perfect. And see what happens. That's actually why I got one of those timers.

 

[apoulin]

Yea it could be. At this point I'm putting money on environment, and if you're keeping it under 75° lights on, with the fan, what's it getting down to at lights out. I had wind burn before and my explanation was I was drying them out too fast for their rate of transpiration.

I found my sweet spot under leds to be 77-78° and they loved every second of it, maybe it's because they don't put out the IR bands HIDs do or what. But I have noticed they love it a touch warmer. I think g concurred.

Might as well try killing the fan, at least at night, if you have one of the dual outlet timers that'd be perfect. And see what happens. That's actually why I got one of those timers.

I never really thought twice about the fan because they are in dwc so I figured they can just suck more water up and as long as the temps and humidity were in check that all would be well. You raise an interesting point, it gets about 50F at night with fan blowing, at least lately. I always tried to keep temps aroun 70 to try and keep reZ cooler to inhibit bad bacteria growth.

So maybe lower my lights back to around 16" and turn my fan off for a while and let the temps get a little higher and see what that does? Thanks again for the quick responses lol I'm at work now too, I know how it can be trying to do both

 

[doz]

Been looking at your build and others. Great thread btw for us newcomers learning, appreciate it. Plan on doing something like yours most likely, although I may utilize a large heatsink such as what REALSTYLES is doing.

The Meanwell LED driver you listed (looking at that one as well) shows a 2A @ 120v max input rating. I assume this means for wiring up the driver that you just need a plug that will support minimum of 2A and just splice it in? I would go with a higher amperage cord of course (possibly 2 drivers wired so I would have to).

Basically I am asking if I am on the right track here? Just splice in a 2 prong plug ensure that the neutral and hot are wired correctly?

 

[Scotch089]

I was in Dwc when I had my wind burn as well, but I've also always had issues keeping my RH up above 40% worth a try, give it week but I wouldn't let my heat exceed 79-81°, it was a very fine line for me. I had always noticed quicker growth under 77-78° though, I blame that on the efficiency/lack of heat on our super kewl running panels.

Take care and let me know what you see.

 

[apoulin]

Been looking at your build and others. Great thread btw for us newcomers learning, appreciate it. Plan on doing something like yours most likely, although I may utilize a large heatsink such as what REALSTYLES is doing.

The Meanwell LED driver you listed (looking at that one as well) shows a 2A @ 120v max input rating. I assume this means for wiring up the driver that you just need a plug that will support minimum of 2A and just splice it in? I would go with a higher amperage cord of course (possibly 2 drivers wired so I would have to).

Basically I am asking if I am on the right track here? Just splice in a 2 prong plug ensure that the neutral and hot are wired correctly?

Well thank you, it means a lot to be able to give back!

I used an old power strip and harvested a heavy duty three prong cord, they had them at Home Depot for like $13 or a power strip for $5(to harvest cord from) then I wired it up accordingly and plugged it in. It is nerve wracking the first time or two, just make sure you are wiring everything correctly. Just double check everything and post to this section of the forum and there will be plenty of people helping!

You need a three prong cord for this driver, if you planned on using more than one driver on the same cord, you should wire them in parallel on both the AC/DC side.

Read @SupraSPL thread on how to power leds, pretty sure he mentions stacking drivers there.

 

[apoulin]

I was in Dwc when I had my wind burn as well, but I've also always had issues keeping my RH up above 40% worth a try, give it week but I wouldn't let my heat exceed 79-81°, it was a very fine line for me. I had always noticed quicker growth under 77-78° though, I blame that on the efficiency/lack of heat on our super kewl running panels.

Take care and let me know what you see.

Yea I will be keeping temps below 80 for sure, will move fan elsewhere in the room if temps become an issue . My temps were just at 60 with a fan blowing on them, the window was left open. So I shut the window and shut the fan off, lights off until 9am. I will be updating tomorrow morning!

 

[doz]

I might just go basic at first, we will see. I might just try to do a build with only 4 such as yours that is relatively cheap but can provide good results. I really want to incorporate a 3:1 ratio of 3000k:5000k (6-3000k, 2-5000k) on one 28" heatsink w/ 2 drivers.

 

[apoulin]

Been looking at your build and others. Great thread btw for us newcomers learning, appreciate it. Plan on doing something like yours most likely, although I may utilize a large heatsink such as what REALSTYLES is doing.

The Meanwell LED driver you listed (looking at that one as well) shows a 2A @ 120v max input rating. I assume this means for wiring up the driver that you just need a plug that will support minimum of 2A and just splice it in? I would go with a higher amperage cord of course (possibly 2 drivers wired so I would have to).

Basically I am asking if I am on the right track here? Just splice in a 2 prong plug ensure that the neutral and hot are wired correctly?

I also chose to go with a modular design so I can move each led for better light coverage now and in the future, one big heatsink can only be moved all at once, plus cPu heatsinks can be smaller since they are actively cooled, and they are standard sizes with fan mounts already there lol made sense to me but hey what works for me might not be the best for you

 

[apoulin]

I might just go basic at first, we will see. I might just try to do a build with only 4 such as yours that is relatively cheap but can provide good results. I really want to incorporate a 3:1 ratio of 3000k:5000k (6-3000k, 2-5000k) on one 28" heatsink w/ 2 drivers.

Yea I have the 5 3070 3ks and 4 vero 10 5ks. But I plan to have the Veros for clones/veg and add some other leds to add to my 3k spectrum. I initially chose 3k because it is a versatile spectrum range

 

[bizfactory]

Got the frame for my 4xCXB3070 set up. Now just need to wire everything up and mount the LEDs! Hopefully gives you some ideas if you move from the individually hung coolers.