DIY CXB2530 3000K 80cri U2 bin (Vero Killers!)

SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
Thanks Supra! Obviously you helped a ton in the design. 3000k 80cri, ~49.1% efficiency, and 94% driver efficiency. Everyone's going to call me a liar now... although so far I've never been called a troll fucker!! thank god...

It's obviously not the best quality build. I don't even know how to make cases yet. SDS and positivity, mechmike, etc, all have me beat on build quality. (Maybe not the frankenstein crown!! lol!)
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Ugh this lamp itsa fraud trolling!

The way I see it its all about the engine inside because that is what will fill your jars, aesthetics can come later. Actually takes a lot of work to stop aesthetics from interfering with the awesomeness :)
 
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NapalmD

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
The way I see it its all about the engine inside because that is what will fill your jars, aesthetics can come later. Actually takes a lot of work to stop aesthetics from interfering with the awesomeness :)
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You can say that again!:wink:
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Mellodrama said:
Tinning the leads helps.

One big problem is using wire that's too big. 18AWG works best for me. I wanted to use the biggest wire I could to avoid voltage droop. What I found out was that I could jam larger wires into the Ideal holder clip but they'd pull right back out. If you were worried about voltage droop you could use a short length of AWG18, then go up in wire size.
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I ended up going with a thinner gauge all the way. I figure 500mA of current will cause very little voltage drop across the wire. But the 18AWG stranded wires just fell right out... made me second guess my plan at first. The driver becoming disconnected from the COB creates a fatal shock hazard with my setup due to the high voltage, so that really can not happen.
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
deadgro said:
I'm eyeing them :)

I know I'm not supposed to ask, but you're running 5.5A from a single driver?
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Nope, it's 500mA, but with dangerously high voltage across all 11. You could also run 8 of them in series using HLG-120H-C500, but that voltage is still pretty high at 300V.
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
The cxb's keep popping out of the ideal holders while trying to apply TIM and getting thermal grease everywhere.. It's taking an hour to do each, and i'm getting pissed. I'm just trying to get them off to put grease on. They won't hold the cobs anymore... the spring loaded thing keeps popping them out, and i can't get it back in with grease on it without getting grease everywhere and taking forever... :cuss::cuss:

It must be the ghost of vero 18...
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
Thanks Supra! Obviously you helped a ton in the design. 3000k 80cri, ~49.1% efficiency, and 94% driver efficiency. Everyone's going to call me a liar now... although so far I've never been called a troll fucker!! thank god...

It's obviously not the best quality build. I don't even know how to make cases yet. SDS and positivity, mechmike, etc, all have me beat on build quality. (Maybe not the frankenstein crown!! lol!)
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Hey now, don't be dissing my Crowns! :wink:

My designs have come a long way since :p.
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
After getting them all back on with TIM, and getting them to align with the holders correctly, I turned them back on and dimmed to notice that 3 of the cobs are damaged. 2 of them, are missing 1 string (1/7 out) and 1 of them is missing 3 strings (3/7 out). I'm guessing they were either missed in quality control, or the flickering from the bad connection earlier damaged them.

There are 12 dies per string if i counted correctly, and 84 total. 7 strings in each cob.

I have 2 vero 29 that are missing 1 of their strings as well, and still use them... Not sure if i should use as is, or replace them, at least the one missing 2 strings..

What's weird is that one of the vero 29 actually fixed itself over time, but the other didn't..
 
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Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
I'd get new unfortunately.

I tried different wires. 18 awg solid wire is the best fit. On my mini light you can see heat shrink where they connect to the holders. That's where I spliced in solid wire to the more flexible stranded. Don't mess with trying to tin stranded it's just a headache. 18awg solid wire works repeatedly easy.
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
The one with 4 of 7 strings left could be run at 350mA in veg... There's lots of extra voltage slack on the veg driver, and that's 350mA. Or maybe I could use it as a desk lamp.

It would be like a the smaller version, but in a big package.
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Finally hung up. I've been making hangers out of 1/16" stainless steel cable and 3 aluminum ferrules. Not exactly sure if it's a good design, but it worked well with the 80W UFO killers. They will be left on for a few hours, then I will check temperatures to determine what sort of forced air is needed.

IMAG0306.jpgIMAG0307.jpg IMAG0309.jpg IMAG0310.jpg

It's hard to notice that 3 are damaged. Can you guess which 3?
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
NapalmD said:
Awesome build Church! Whats the most you could push those 15" sinks passively?
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So they've been running for over an hour and the 15" sinks are somewhat warm to the touch. The base near the cobs is warmer to the touch... so it's not totally passive. I'm going to estimate a Tc=50-60C using the feel test. I will probably go forward with my 120mm fan plan.

You can get a pack of 4x120mm coolermaster fans on amazon for about 17 bucks. The plan was to put 2 on each and run them at 5V.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8I474/

Although it won't damage them without the fans, so I'd consider it optional.
 
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