...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
DonPetro said:
View attachment 3362600
This thread needed a bump with all the cxb talk going on.
Vero 18 4000k's.
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If I didn't know how to build my own fixtures, I'd seriously be interested in buying those panels from ya!

:clap:

avnewb said:
Bent the tall ones over. Finally going to swich them. Im happy went with v29s.



View attachment 3362601
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I'm happy that you're happy about the Veros working to you're liking. Your mega fixture turned out wonderfully and by my calculations, will bring forth some major yields!

:clap:
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
If I didn't know how to build my own fixtures, I'd seriously be interested in buying those panels from ya!

:clap:
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Thanks man! Feels good to have accomplished this and i am actually pretty pleased with the quality. I gotta say though...between the molex connectors, the dc jack adaptors and the wagos it was actually pretty easy. Hardest part was drilling all the damn holes.
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
DonPetro said:
Thanks man! Feels good to have accomplished this and i am actually pretty pleased with the quality. I gotta say though...between the molex connectors, the dc jack adaptors and the wagos it was actually pretty easy. Hardest part was drilling all the damn holes.
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I found out earlier this weekend how much smoother a drill press is in comparison to using a hand drill (much smoother and faster). It had laser pin-points for accuracy, which I really like except looking at it for too long gave my eyes some discomfort. Maybe I'll wear some sunglasses or something next go about.

So yeah drilling holes is by far the most time-consuming, followed by soldering, then tapping.

How do you like your molex connectors? Have you had any issues with them thus far?
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
I found out earlier this weekend how much smoother a drill press is in comparison to using a hand drill (much smoother and faster). It had laser pin-points for accuracy, which I really like except looking at it for too long gave my eyes some discomfort. Maybe I'll wear some sunglasses or something next go about.

So yeah drilling holes is by far the most time-consuming, followed by soldering, then tapping.

How do you like your molex connectors? Have you had any issues with them thus far?
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No trouble with the molex (pico ez-mate) connectors. The connector is so tiny along with the leads from it. Seems very delicate but they are very well made. I chose the 12" fused to 18awg and i likely should have taken a couple inches off but no big deal there. Made good use of the twist ties.
 
nvhak49

nvhak49

Well-Known Member
What size wire are you guys using to wore up vero 18s? I get them In today gonna get sand paper to sand down my heat sinks and wire and solder and some wire connectors what kind of connectors are you guys using and gotta get a tap set too, stoked to get this veg light going!
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
nvhak49 said:
Is pk-3 not any good I just ordered some today?
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@NapalmD just did a build with PK3 and AS5. He said the AS5 was runnier. AVnewb said it was too cold in his basement and the PK3 was not cooperative. I usually build in the basement as well and PK3 does get thicker at cool temps.

My preferred method is too use enough PK3 that it is easy to press out any air bubbles and still get a thin layer. It creates a bit of waste and requires a bit of cleanup, but IMO it is simple and foolproof method for being certain the COBs are well cooled. It does have an adhesive effect but still requires kapton to hold the COB still. Works great with Veros and for CXAs. The CXA COB holders can complicate that process as Churchhaze bumped into with his CXB build but they may be worth the trouble depending on your design goals.

I have checked the thermal performance of PK3 and it is very impressive. Same goes for the stock paste on the Arctic and Rosewill CPU coolers. Come to think of it I should do a test on a sanded surface with no paste to get a baseline.

CXA3070
800mA = .75% temp droop
1.47A = 1.6%
2.47A = 4.5%

Vero29
1.47A = 1.2%
2.47A = 2%
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
nvhak49 said:
What size wire are you guys using to wore up vero 18s? I get them In today gonna get sand paper to sand down my heat sinks and wire and solder and some wire connectors what kind of connectors are you guys using and gotta get a tap set too, stoked to get this veg light going!
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It sort of depends on what current you're set to run through the COBs. I use 20AWG for my Vero 18's @ both 500mA && 700mA. No problems yet. I solder and use Molex's Pico EZ-Mate connectors.
 
nvhak49

nvhak49

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
It sort of depends on what current you're set to run through the COBs. I use 20AWG for my Vero 18's @ both 500mA && 700mA. No problems yet. I solder and use Molex's Pico EZ-Mate connectors.
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I'm just gonna be running them at 700mA max was gonna be up some 16 gauge but I was reading guys using 18 too so I might use either one. Oh ok cool thanks!
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
lemmy714 said:
I have a small 2x2 tent I'm going to use for cloning and/or storing 2-3 mothers. Is one Vero 13 4000k enough for this?
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Running 8 watts / sq. ft....yes, but terrible efficiency to get 32 watts....

Running 4 watts /sq. ft....much more practical 16 watts.

I like the 5k over the 4k, but both are really good choices...

and a Vero 18 might be a better choice: run it similarly at 4-5 watts/sq. ft and the efficiency will increase 10-15%....
 
lemmy714

lemmy714

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
Running 8 watts / sq. ft....yes, but terrible efficiency to get 32 watts....

Running 4 watts /sq. ft....much more practical 16 watts.

I like the 5k over the 4k, but both are really good choices...

and a Vero 18 might be a better choice: run it similarly at 4-5 watts/sq. ft and the efficiency will increase 10-15%....
Click to expand...
Does the vero 18 5000k only come in 70 CRI? I can not find 80 CRI.
 
NapalmD

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
@NapalmD just did a build with PK3 and AS5. He said the AS5 was runnier. AVnewb said it was too cold in his basement and the PK3 was not cooperative. I usually build in the basement as well and PK3 does get thicker at cool temps.

My preferred method is too use enough PK3 that it is easy to press out any air bubbles and still get a thin layer. It creates a bit of waste and requires a bit of cleanup, but IMO it is simple and foolproof method for being certain the COBs are well cooled. It does have an adhesive effect but still requires kapton to hold the COB still. Works great with Veros and for CXAs. The CXA COB holders can complicate that process as Churchhaze bumped into with his CXB build but they may be worth the trouble depending on your design goals.

I have checked the thermal performance of PK3 and it is very impressive. Same goes for the stock paste on the Arctic and Rosewill CPU coolers. Come to think of it I should do a test on a sanded surface with no paste to get a baseline.

CXA3070
800mA = .75% temp droop
1.47A = 1.6%
2.47A = 4.5%

Vero29
1.47A = 1.2%
2.47A = 2%
Click to expand...
Working on my build now and I used both the pk3 and arctic silver 5 as Supra said and the pk3 is much easier to work with and provides a much better grip imo. Absolutely worth it to spend the extra on pk3.
 
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