introduction and soil info

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vegaorganic408

New Member
Hey guys vegaorganic408 here, just wanted to introduce myself and talk soil.
Im new to this so if theres a thread for this already i apologize for the waste of space.

Ive been mixing a few different batches of soil and super soil as well and just wanted to share some info and get as much feedback as possible. Knowledge is power.

my vegan grow with no ewc in the soil

For 10 5 gal pots

4cf coco (GO)
.5cf forest humus (GO)
.5cf mushroom compost (mt eden)
1 cup kelp meal (DTE)
1 cup alfalfa meal (DTE)
.5 cup cottonseed meal (DTE)
.5 cup soybean meal (DTE)
.5 cup neem seed meal (DTE)
1/3 cup azomite (DTE)
.5 cup dolomite lime (Growmore)
10 oz mykos
i also added some oatmeal and powdered organic flax seed. And did one without the oatmeal and flax seed only for the top portion of soil.

The fungus growth of the added oatmeal and flax was amazing! In 1 week all you see is thick white fungus 2-3 inch thick. i was amazed to see the difference. I "cook" for 45 days. Rotated every 2 weeks and add new flax and oats on top layer and lightly mix top layer. Im not an expert but i did my trials and found that oatmeal, and flax seed increased the fungus growth exponentially.



As for liquids i use the vegamatrix line or bio thrive line, as they claim to be mostly veganic, but only as needed. most of the time im feeding just ro water and tea but there are those times when more nutes are needed



just wanted to share some info and hope to get feedback
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
vegaorganic408 said:
Hey guys vegaorganic408 here, just wanted to introduce myself and talk soil.
Im new to this so if theres a thread for this already i apologize for the waste of space.

Ive been mixing a few different batches of soil and super soil as well and just wanted to share some info and get as much feedback as possible. Knowledge is power.

my vegan grow with no ewc in the soil

For 10 5 gal pots

4cf coco (GO)
.5cf forest humus (GO)
.5cf mushroom compost (mt eden)
1 cup kelp meal (DTE)
1 cup alfalfa meal (DTE)
.5 cup cottonseed meal (DTE)
.5 cup soybean meal (DTE)
.5 cup neem seed meal (DTE)
1/3 cup azomite (DTE)
.5 cup dolomite lime (Growmore)
10 oz mykos
i also added some oatmeal and powdered organic flax seed. And did one without the oatmeal and flax seed only for the top portion of soil.

The fungus growth of the added oatmeal and flax was amazing! In 1 week all you see is thick white fungus 2-3 inch thick. i was amazed to see the difference. I "cook" for 45 days. Rotated every 2 weeks and add new flax and oats on top layer and lightly mix top layer. Im not an expert but i did my trials and found that oatmeal, and flax seed increased the fungus growth exponentially.



As for liquids i use the vegamatrix line or bio thrive line, as they claim to be mostly veganic, but only as needed. most of the time im feeding just ro water and tea but there are those times when more nutes are needed



just wanted to share some info and hope to get feedback
Click to expand...
Why no EWC? Because it's an animal byproduct? What if they are guaranteed "free-range"? Ah, i'm just kidding.
Just remember any and all compost will have mircro-organisms in there... Organics is kinda latched along with bugs/animal byproducts...
you'll need much much more compost, and much more aeration as well. It's going to hold too much water.
you'll probably run into acidity problems, the cottonseed meal shouldn't be used...
I'd drop the soy meal, and cottonseed meal. Add more neem meal in place. More alfalfa too.
You'll need WAY more minerals than just a third of a cup.
for 5 cf of soil you should be at LEAST 5 cups of minerals. Minimum.
I'd say do a lil more research prior to buying those amendments...
 
O

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
greasemonkey mann got it right why no ewc ,it is a excellent source of nitrogen ,also cow manure and mushroom compost ,i also agree that it is not going to drain ,to many heavy's and not enough lite .also welcome aboard dude ,if you have question this is the place to get it ,hope you enjoy your grow and this web site.
 
V

vegaorganic408

New Member
greasemonkeymann said:
Why no EWC? Because it's an animal byproduct? What if they are guaranteed "free-range"? Ah, i'm just kidding.
Just remember any and all compost will have mircro-organisms in there... Organics is kinda latched along with bugs/animal byproducts...
you'll need much much more compost, and much more aeration as well. It's going to hold too much water.
you'll probably run into acidity problems, the cottonseed meal shouldn't be used...
I'd drop the soy meal, and cottonseed meal. Add more neem meal in place. More alfalfa too.
You'll need WAY more minerals than just a third of a cup.
for 5 cf of soil you should be at LEAST 5 cups of minerals. Minimum.
I'd say do a lil more research prior to buying those amendments...
Click to expand...


your absolutely right brother. this is actually my vegan mix i tried with the vegamatrix nute line and work well.

I actually mix my own personal batches of organic Soil.
Ive based my mixes off of subcools recipe and toned it down to where i can use it as a base soil instead of a bottom layer of supersoil.
im no professional but based on subcools recipe and information on having a buffet of food for the plants, and a little math. Ive had succesful grows and its either organic or veganic.
Dont get me wrong hydro will always kill soil in the numbers game. But is it that much of a difference?
Ive grown both ways and started my first grow with a full flood and drain system and it was beautiful. But i started thinking about the reason why i wanted to do this and its to spread the cleanest and healthiest medicine possible.

Thats why i started my research on soil mixing and did a lot of different batches of soil mixes just to see which would work best for me. Trial and error. But so far based on subcools recipe and ideas and a little division. My grows have been nothing but succesful.
At at first it may seem like amendments cost a lot of money, but think of the money youll save on nutrient and amount of soil youll be able to make.
 
V

vegaorganic408

New Member
vegaorganic408 said:
your absolutely right brother. this is actually my vegan mix i tried with the vegamatrix nute line and work well.

I actually mix my own personal batches of organic Soil.
Ive based my mixes off of subcools recipe and toned it down to where i can use it as a base soil instead of a bottom layer of supersoil.
im no professional but based on subcools recipe and information on having a buffet of food for the plants, and a little math. Ive had succesful grows and its either organic or veganic.
Dont get me wrong hydro will always kill soil in the numbers game. But is it that much of a difference?
Ive grown both ways and started my first grow with a full flood and drain system and it was beautiful. But i started thinking about the reason why i wanted to do this and its to spread the cleanest and healthiest medicine possible.

Thats why i started my research on soil mixing and did a lot of different batches of soil mixes just to see which would work best for me. Trial and error. But so far based on subcools recipe and ideas and a little division. My grows have been nothing but succesful.
At at first it may seem like amendments cost a lot of money, but think of the money youll save on nutrient and amount of soil youll be able to make.
Click to expand...

Sorry folks went completely out of subject with that last segment on hydro. I apologize for the waste of space.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
veganics is an interesting concept... but I just can't part with my own homemade ewc, crab meal, and insect meals.
I need too much of an active IPM to keep the myriad of spider mites that live here. I get brown ones, red ones and the normal two-spot.
The red and brown ones are smaller but more gnarly in weakening plants.. fuckers..
 
V

vegaorganic408

New Member
greasemonkeymann said:
veganics is an interesting concept... but I just can't part with my own homemade ewc, crab meal, and insect meals.
I need too much of an active IPM to keep the myriad of spider mites that live here. I get brown ones, red ones and the normal two-spot.
The red and brown ones are smaller but more gnarly in weakening plants.. fuckers..
Click to expand...
you should bomb your grow room with something eco friendly after harvest. Then get a hepa filter for your intake. After that azamax should do the trick if they come back.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
vegaorganic408 said:
you should bomb your grow room with something eco friendly after harvest. Then get a hepa filter for your intake. After that azamax should do the trick if they come back.
Click to expand...
no offense brother, but my battle with mites goes back into the Clinton administration... Tried prob everything.
Azamax isn't that great, i'd go with emulsified neem oil over that.. They build up tolerances to those fast though, it's why I like to mix my insecticides.. lavender, pepper, cilantro..
Everything is filtered, but I live in the middle of a redwood forest, it's just not possible to have a grow without mites in some fashion, I use an IPM with crab meal, insect meal (lots of chitin/chitinase) and neem meal.
Keeps them to a manageable level.
horsetail sprays, comfrey and dandelion foliar sprays seem to slow them too.
I don't bomb with anything though.
The red and brown mites are a different breed, those bastards are burly
 
V

vegaorganic408

New Member
greasemonkeymann said:
no offense brother, but my battle with mites goes back into the Clinton administration... Tried prob everything.
Azamax isn't that great, i'd go with emulsified neem oil over that.. They build up tolerances to those fast though, it's why I like to mix my insecticides.. lavender, pepper, cilantro..
Everything is filtered, but I live in the middle of a redwood forest, it's just not possible to have a grow without mites in some fashion, I use an IPM with crab meal, insect meal (lots of chitin/chitinase) and neem meal.
Keeps them to a manageable level.
horsetail sprays, comfrey and dandelion foliar sprays seem to slow them too.
I don't bomb with anything though.
The red and brown mites are a different breed, those bastards are burly
Click to expand...

Non taken brother. are you open to try other non organic remedys?

I saw a thread about a guy that sprayed his girls with avid and floramite and eagle 20 and had them lab tested and there were no traces of any of the chems. He sprayed in earlier stages of veg If i remember correctly.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
vegaorganic408 said:
Non taken brother. are you open to try other non organic remedys?

I saw a thread about a guy that sprayed his girls with avid and floramite and eagle 20 and had them lab tested and there were no traces of any of the chems. He sprayed in earlier stages of veg If i remember correctly.
Click to expand...
yea man, been there done that.
The problem is in order to "repel" them I have to spray pretty close to the flower cycle, and I don't want to do that, not with a systematic miticide.
I can keep them "manageable" naturally..
Also i'm sorta against the really strong miticides... some speculate it may be why our bees are dying and not procreating anymore...
I appreciate your help though, I just battle it like you would any incurable affliction.
EVERY plant I've grown in the last decade has had at least a couple mites on them...
 
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