Gonna do my first DIY LED with Cree CXA3590

Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
REALSTYLES said:
I'm fucking smoked out right now from some shit called High Octane from my buddy who's brother grows the real Master P and damn I meant what you said lol but what thermal paste? should I make sure it's silver based?
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Shit....I don't lol :) I have just followed Supra's past suggestions [ProLima] and me myself went with the cheaper Pk2 [newegg $5]...I don't think the lower resistance hurts at all, these ain't cpu's...

as far as silver based, enlighten us, I don't know shiat, have to read up....:peace:

G.g.g.g.g.ghetto dope, make crak like that...
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
REALSTYLES said:
Well I got my first heat sink drilled with holes and only tapped 2 of them before the tap broke damn it back to Lowes again. Next time I'll be more careful plus I have to get a new drill bit as well they dull pretty fast and I have only 4 more holes to drill in my second heat sink lol.
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One more thing if you don't mind....

I just ordered Ideal Chip lok's too....just waiting for them to arrive....what hardware length did you go with? and where did you order? M3 and #4 is the diameter, but what length did you go with, if you picked some up? :joint: I'll leave you be...
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
works from what I can tell, but more expensive and not as high a thermal conductance as the PK3 or Pk2. Still though, other than the internet, Arctic is what I can find in person, but I ordered up PK, so I don't have to.....:peace:
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lucky you I have to order it online lol. I almost have 1 of the heat sinks tapped fucking broke another cheap Lowes $5 tap I only have 7 more to due. 1 tap on 1 heat sink and 6 on the other lol. When I was on the last hole on the first heat sink I broke the tap and on the second one I was using a Klein tool Tap screwdriver and the next time I'll use a drill press instead of a cordless drill. Some of the holes were off a bit that's why I keep breaking taps. It's all a learning curb
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
BTW I fixed the problem breaking taps, just use self tapping screws after drilling the proper hole size first. I'm still R&D mode with the help of you guys(the ones I know what they're talking about). I gotta learn how to solder/braise aluminum so I can make a light weight frame that will support the weight of the heat sink so the DIY light don't weigh a ton.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
I don't know how the hell y'all break so many taps, but glad you got a solution figured out.

I have a single tap that has gone 20 holes or so, [knock on motherfucking wood] and I have adjustable clutch on my cheapo cordless drill, that helps.

Another thing is to put a small magnetic level on the end of your drill, this can help you see "straight" literally as you tap that sink...tap tap :peace:
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
I don't know how the hell y'all break so many taps, but glad you got a solution figured out.

I have a single tap that has gone 20 holes or so, [knock on motherfucking wood] and I have adjustable clutch on my cheapo cordless drill, that helps.

Another thing is to put a small magnetic level on the end of your drill, this can help you see "straight" literally as you tap that sink...tap tap :peace:
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I just drilled 8 holes and didn't break a drill bit today lol. I figured out how I'm gonna hang my lights but it's gonna require me to drill 8 more holes lol I'll post some more pics in a bit

SAM_0125.JPG
 
ellydee

ellydee

Well-Known Member
You don't typically solder or braze aluminum. (there is one exception, but I wouldn't recommend it). It can be mig welded with a spool gun or tig welded. How about some light angle and some pop rivets. Pretty simple.
Are you mounting your driver onto your heatsink? Ooh...that's gonna get hot!
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
ellydee said:
You don't typically solder or braze aluminum. (there is one exception, but I wouldn't recommend it). It can be mig welded with a spool gun or tig welded. How about some light angle and some pop rivets. Pretty simple.
Are you mounting your driver onto your heatsink? Ooh...that's gonna get hot!
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You have no clue but it's ok. My mom says I have to be nice to people who are slow. Lets see pics of what you've done, because right now you're all talk.
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
One more thing if you don't mind....

I just ordered Ideal Chip lok's too....just waiting for them to arrive....what hardware length did you go with? and where did you order? M3 and #4 is the diameter, but what length did you go with, if you picked some up? :joint: I'll leave you be...
Click to expand...
I actually went with the self tapping screws #8 x 1/2". I kept breaking taps lol and the screws work great less hassle.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Its probably too late, but after doing some reading up....

Here is a tapping block: last forevers, helps start a straight hole and reduces breakage when tapping by hand.......
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2571

We really should be using spiral flute taps or even a roll form tap [aka form tap, aka cold form aka thread roll, etc.]

Blind holes are holes drilled that don't go all the way thru metal and you can't see the bottom, spiral flutes work best in these situations, because they back the cut material back and out of the hole....spiral cut and taper cut taps usually push the cut forward....and this is where you hear the terms, "metal gets gummy" especially with oil....and jamming occurs. Roll forms apparently use a little bigger drill bit, than a standard 4/40 tap, mainly because there is NO cut with the cold forms, you actually shape metal with these taps.So, since you remove no metal with a 4/40 roll form tap, you need to take more metal out with a bigger drill bit.

I have the wrong type of tap [spiral tip but I have been lucky, eventually it will break, I know this.....]and they are ok for aluminum use, they just have their drawback [cut pushing forward, bad! for blind holes]

The only problem is that spiral flute 4-40's and roll form 4-40's are about $15 apiece.
http://www.amazon.com/Union-Butterfield-High-Speed-Uncoated-Chamfer/dp/B004J4VUU2/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1420008736&sr=1-2


Roll forms are new to me: they work by actually forming the metal [extruded] and don't cut, so they don't leave metal and you can cut with faster speeds....[this really looks like the best way for beginners and experienced] You still have to drill, but I think there you use a different drill bit size, even though the tap is a 4/40. Still reading up on cold form.....:peace: :leaf:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALAX-4-40-H5-ROLL-FORM-BOTTOM-TAP-10725-010-NEW-/121437774401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c46416241
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
Its probably too late, but after doing some reading up....

Here is a tapping block: last forevers, helps start a straight hole and reduces breakage when tapping by hand.......
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2571

We really should be using spiral flute taps or even a roll form tap [aka form tap, aka cold form aka thread roll, etc.]

Blind holes are holes drilled that don't go all the way thru metal and you can't see the bottom, spiral flutes work best in these situations, because they back the cut material back and out of the hole....spiral cut and taper cut taps usually push the cut forward....and this is where you hear the terms, "metal gets gummy" especially with oil....and jamming occurs. Roll forms apparently use a little bigger drill bit, than a standard 4/40 tap, mainly because there is NO cut with the cold forms, you actually shape metal with these taps.So, since you remove no metal with a 4/40 roll form tap, you need to take more metal out with a bigger drill bit.

I have the wrong type of tap [spiral tip but I have been lucky, eventually it will break, I know this.....]and they are ok for aluminum use, they just have their drawback [cut pushing forward, bad! for blind holes]

The only problem is that spiral flute 4-40's and roll form 4-40's are about $15 apiece.
http://www.amazon.com/Union-Butterfield-High-Speed-Uncoated-Chamfer/dp/B004J4VUU2/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1420008736&sr=1-2


Roll forms are new to me: they work by actually forming the metal [extruded] and don't cut, so they don't leave metal and you can cut with faster speeds....[this really looks like the best way for beginners and experienced] You still have to drill, but I think there you use a different drill bit size, even though the tap is a 4/40. Still reading up on cold form.....:peace: :leaf:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALAX-4-40-H5-ROLL-FORM-BOTTOM-TAP-10725-010-NEW-/121437774401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c46416241
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Funny thing is my dad was a machinist for Hughes Aircraft and I wish I had a drill drill lol. I figured out why and it's what you said bad holes. My next run after this will be much better. I won't be high the next time I drill holes lol.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
REALSTYLES said:
. I won't be high the next time I drill holes lol.
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hell...I prefer it, I wouldn't be able to drill straight holes, Not high. 1 oil hit, couple drinks of water...


ps you just need to hunt on craigslist and see if someone is giving up a little Craftsman or whatever drill press, that they just got for Christmas.
 
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