DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

zangtumtum said:
I received this today...
It seems BIN "AB" but I would like some confirmation
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...its a AB bin but its a 2 step...

salmonetin said:
...datasheet of cxa3070...

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED Components and Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/ds CXA3070.pdf

...page 14... see pic... bin code...

...for 3070-30F-AB-NOH... ...in your bin code... CXA3070-30H-AB-NOH

3070 – Series…CXA30 – Performance Class…70

30F – Chromaticity Bin...30F = 4-Step... ...page10 and 12...

30H - Chromaticity Bin...30H = 2-Step... ...page10 and 12...

AB – Flux Bin...AB ...page 4 and 9...

NOH – Vf Class...NO = 36-V Class – CRI Specification...H = 80 min CRI

...page 4... see table for 3000º K... flux characteristic easywhite order codes and bins...

...page 9... see table... performance groups brightness...

...page 10... see tables... performance groups chromaticity

...page 12... see pic... easywhite bins plotted on the cie 1931...

...

saludos
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thanks a lot salmonetin for investigation...
a new supplier had promised me a "AB 4-step" for a new prototype lamp project...
I think for a first step of a prototype it's ok...
 
Did a little more thinking and not instead of 4x6 Vero 10s I am thinking maybe 5x7 on a HLG-185H-C1400 like Mr Flux but with 2 more Veros per bar (each ~200ma for ~37% efficiency), 5 bars in series, 7 V10s per bar in parallel.
Bueno Time said:
Nice to know so I should expect around 270mA @88%, I ordered 2 of those drivers and two Vero 10 4000K last night to play with. See how I like the spectrum, light output and spread of the little COBs before I commit to ordering a larger quantity for a new lighting setup.


Possible plan is 2'x3' footprint 32" long heatsink bars 6 Vero 10 4000K per bar, 2 Vero 10 per driver linked above.
picture.php
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Still contemplating different ways to do this while I wait for my cheapo drivers to get here to play with these V10s. I made another sketchup of a 35 Vero setup for my 2'x3' tent, rather than 24 Veros in the pic I quoted. 5 bars of 7 V10s on each on a HLG-185H-C1400 like Mr Flux only with 2 more V10s per bar (splits the current more and spreads the light better). Each V10 4000K would run at ~200mA @ ~37% efficiency if I wired the 5 bars in series on the driver and each bar all V10s in parallel.

Looks nice in the sketchup. I would actually run the two outermost bars closer to the tent sides since the overlap between the bars would cover those areas stronger than the outsides with no overlap between COBs. I kept them all evenly spaced for the sketchup though makes it easier, the heatsink bars would be adjustable front to back by sliding on the bars they hang from in the tent.

picture.php


edit: Also just realized this setup would be easier on the heatsinks to cool by adding that 5th bar, each bar would be running ~9.2w less per heatsink. Another bonus.
 
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Nice plan and sketch BT! 37% at ~2.10/PAR W (minimum). That would be very tough to beat and still get such a good spread and close distance to canopy. The Cree XPL V4 3900K might be a contender but Cree 3900K spectrum is probably quite a bit different than the Vero 4000K spectrum.

Here are the minimum numbers for the XPL in case you are considering that possibility. If it is true that the Vero 4000K is more like 3000K, then the Vero might be the better choice.
@2.1A, 37%%, $2.03/W, 6.8W dissipation
XPL E5.png
 
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i have a 44 inch heat sink from heatsink usa of the 2.079 wide.i am trying some test lights and have three chinese 50 watt cobs.i want to try running them on 1 50 watt driver for all three.would i run them in series or parallel?the vf is 30 to 34 vdc and the if is 1700 ma.the driver is the 50 watt from perfect deal that you have recommended.are my calculations for this heat sink being able to handle 3 cobs running at 50 watts total passively correct?if my tests work out alright i will quit working with the chinese cobs and place my order for the 3070's for this(my veg light) and my 16 cob flower light!
 
If you run them in parallel they would each get about 480mA. But they would need to be balanced with (above my knowledge resistor setup) otherwise some COBs could be much brighter than the others and it could be a very large difference. Also the 2.079" has a relatively thin base plate so might not be ideal for large COBs. Since it is a veg light you could use Vero 10s Vero 13s or Cree XML2/XPLs which would give you a better spread and would work better with the thin base plate.

You could use a $3 driver like this for the Veros 10s, it puts out 270-300mA and can run a very long string:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390696103437?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
zep_lover said:
and if i ran them in series?i have not found a good source of info on wiring cobs in series or parallel.
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That eBay driver maxes out at about 38-39Vf, so you cannot run CXA3070s in series on that driver. It is ideal for 1 COB per driver and wiring is very simple, diagram on the first page of this thread.

There are drivers that can handle much higher Vf range so that you can use CXA3590 or run CXA3070 in series. The HLG-185H-C1400 is good for (3) CXA3070s, dimmable and very high efficiency 93-94%.
 
Vero18s have the advantage of a slightly lower Vf than the CXA3050/3070 and Vero 29 so they can use cheap drivers like these. Or if you want dimmng you can use these:
HLG-120H-C1400A/B would work for (3) Vero18s
HLG-185H-C1400A/B would be good for (4) Vero18s
HLG-185H-C1050A/B would work for (6) Vero18s

removed a bunch of math, hold the phone Vero price drop again?
 
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HLG-120H-C1400A/B would work for (3) Vero18s

To dim this it says you need a pwm output cable 1~10vdc. Is this what you were using the pot and resister for. Cant remember where. Trying to keep up on here is damn near impossible.
 
Yes I use a 100K pot to dim the B version. The A version has an internal pot for dimming.

You can use PWM to control the driver if for some reason you want to automate dimming (temp control or sunrise/sunset)
 
Got those cheap drivers today only 1 week from china, not bad. They are a little different then the ones in the picture, almost the same but the ac wires are blue instead of white and the sticker is different as well as output voltage of 39-63V instead of the 30-65V pictured (according to the sticker havent tested). Oh well, good enough to play with the two V10s I got to test, now just need to assemble them maybe tomorrow.
 
Bueno Time said:
Got those cheap drivers today only 1 week from china, not bad. They are a little different then the ones in the picture, almost the same but the ac wires are blue instead of white and the sticker is different as well as output voltage of 39-63V instead of the 30-65V pictured (according to the sticker havent tested). Oh well, good enough to play with the two V10s I got to test, now just need to assemble them maybe tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Nice, I have been waiting on mine going on 3 weeks. Oh well patience is a virtue or some shiatt :peace:
 
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