jerichojews
Well-Known Member
The dirt came from a bag. So did the amendments. Now, what are these things?
What bug did I just see in the soil???
- Thread starter jerichojews
- Start date
TheYokel
Well-Known Member
Bugs.
TheTrippyHippie
Well-Known Member
Yo i got lucky. I was having some gnat issues yo and since its winter the lady buggs found the warm grow box and fought off the army of pests.
Kush Knight
Well-Known Member
What products did you amend with?
I got the worm things after adding a layer of mulch to the top of my soil. I was using Kellog's soil, and I forget which brand the mulch was that Walmart had stocked. Neem didn't work. I ended up h202-ing the shit out of them. Don't know why people seem to think more than 5 ml of 3% h202 per gallon fries roots. I've poured 4/5 strength 3% straight in the pot before. If I have to kill the bennies, why not properly kill the baddies? H202 Is just as anti bacterial as the soap that was recommended. I prefer water plus an extra oxygen in my roots over soaps possibly containing phosphates (depends on brand).
If you decide on this method, add 10-30 ml 3% h202 per gallon, using every watering for 2 weeks.
Begin using teas in soil and as foliar feed. Consider adding a B1 feed to the soil nutes to encourage healthy and productive rooting.
Then if you want the microorganisms add some myco inoculant and let establish one week. Then introduce some trichoderma inoculant. Keep using organic teas.
If you added lots of wood chips or unprocessed forest compost, you are/were at high risk of insect problems. Lots of pest lay their eggs on pieces of hardwood. It helps keep the eggs from drying out and protects them from being washed away in heavy rains. Its also a poor quality insulator.
Can't really help with ID's but I can say you are overwatering that medium. TBH it looks slimy IMO. Lengthen the dry cycle. Make sure the soil almost fully dry within 5 days, and completely dry by the 6th.
People seem to think 3-5 days of wet/moist soil + another 1-3 days completely dry is poor gardening, which its NOT if you have a well aerated pot and medium. Soaking the pot is exactly like simulating a heavy rain, minus the bud rot. The roots "chase" the water, which leads to proper root expansion. They are so sensitive they can feel if there is running water nearby underground. Ask any plumber about roots.
Wild plants that thrive in say, Hawaii, get rained on about 1-2 days out of 10. The humidity does not allow the soil to dry quick. On the flip-side, too much rain causes infertile soil due to leeching.
.
Those same people who advise using only enough water that the plant can drink it in one day (they say ~1-3 cups), apparently do NOT know how rootballing occurs. Rootballing is not as detrimental to them though, as they get more precise feedings, more often. Its just two different styles, but I just hear so many people saying to use a cup or two a day when they could use 2 gallons every 5-7 days and actually have the roots fill out the 5 gallon bucket.
TMI?
I got the worm things after adding a layer of mulch to the top of my soil. I was using Kellog's soil, and I forget which brand the mulch was that Walmart had stocked. Neem didn't work. I ended up h202-ing the shit out of them. Don't know why people seem to think more than 5 ml of 3% h202 per gallon fries roots. I've poured 4/5 strength 3% straight in the pot before. If I have to kill the bennies, why not properly kill the baddies? H202 Is just as anti bacterial as the soap that was recommended. I prefer water plus an extra oxygen in my roots over soaps possibly containing phosphates (depends on brand).
If you decide on this method, add 10-30 ml 3% h202 per gallon, using every watering for 2 weeks.
Begin using teas in soil and as foliar feed. Consider adding a B1 feed to the soil nutes to encourage healthy and productive rooting.
Then if you want the microorganisms add some myco inoculant and let establish one week. Then introduce some trichoderma inoculant. Keep using organic teas.
If you added lots of wood chips or unprocessed forest compost, you are/were at high risk of insect problems. Lots of pest lay their eggs on pieces of hardwood. It helps keep the eggs from drying out and protects them from being washed away in heavy rains. Its also a poor quality insulator.
Can't really help with ID's but I can say you are overwatering that medium. TBH it looks slimy IMO. Lengthen the dry cycle. Make sure the soil almost fully dry within 5 days, and completely dry by the 6th.
People seem to think 3-5 days of wet/moist soil + another 1-3 days completely dry is poor gardening, which its NOT if you have a well aerated pot and medium. Soaking the pot is exactly like simulating a heavy rain, minus the bud rot. The roots "chase" the water, which leads to proper root expansion. They are so sensitive they can feel if there is running water nearby underground. Ask any plumber about roots.
Wild plants that thrive in say, Hawaii, get rained on about 1-2 days out of 10. The humidity does not allow the soil to dry quick. On the flip-side, too much rain causes infertile soil due to leeching.
.
Those same people who advise using only enough water that the plant can drink it in one day (they say ~1-3 cups), apparently do NOT know how rootballing occurs. Rootballing is not as detrimental to them though, as they get more precise feedings, more often. Its just two different styles, but I just hear so many people saying to use a cup or two a day when they could use 2 gallons every 5-7 days and actually have the roots fill out the 5 gallon bucket.
TMI?
Last edited:
jerichojews
Well-Known Member
I forget each of the amendments this time, but it definitely included neem cake, crab shell, and diatamaceous earth. I didn't add any wood chips or forest compost. Also, it looks overwatered because i had just watered before taking the pictures (in order to get the bugs to the surface).
I'm currently drying things out for about a week, with a layer of diatamaceous earth as a top dressing, as well as around the drainage holes at the bottom.
I'm currently drying things out for about a week, with a layer of diatamaceous earth as a top dressing, as well as around the drainage holes at the bottom.
jerichojews
Well-Known Member
aryOn, that looks exactly right. Weevils and earwigs. ugh. Thanks for figuring that out! I know nothing about these things. Time to do some research......
jerichojews
Well-Known Member
does that supposed weevil look anything like a root aphid to anybody? i hope not.
