bodhi seeds

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
Agreed, and it requires a longer veg time than I like. But both flower rooms are occupied for awhile, so the mainlining experiment comes at a good point w/ time to kill.
That's why I haven't minded taking clones in flower recently. I've got a plateful of plants that need to be flowered, with a few gender unknown. China Yunnan, Maple Leaf Indica, and a couple more. Plus got plants I wanna see for a second go round, Mountain Tenple, Snow Queens. All these plants are hitting almost 2 feet tall and are going to pose a problem if I don't flower them soon or start hacking at them
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
I've thought about main lining and determined it's simply easier to top at the second node. Don't feeling like pulling the plant all around the edges of a pot, my model is always KISS

Agreed. I've kicked around the idea of mainlining a plant, but with all of the topping/training, topping/training I could harvest 2 crops in the time it takes to piss around with one. It looks cool, but I don't see the purpose it serves.
 

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
Agreed. I've kicked around the idea of mainlining a plant, but with all of the topping/training, topping/training I could harvest 2 crops in the time it takes to piss around with one. It looks cool, but I don't see the purpose it serves.
Just seems like more work. I have enough of it in my tiny garden, why add more?

Also note to self, always top pure indy plants if you want to clone the bastards. I think sadly I'll be revegging my MLI as she is simply gorgeous. Benefits: I know I'll have multiple tops, will allow me to flower out other plants. Downsides: takes forever, and I'll need to repot and scrap the root ball. While I've never had real big issues with my fertilizer usage, I can't imagine the soil has much left to offer and I don't need some weird lockout down the line.
 

D_Urbmon

Well-Known Member
Just seems like more work. I have enough of it in my tiny garden, why add more?

Also note to self, always top pure indy plants if you want to clone the bastards. I think sadly I'll be revegging my MLI as she is simply gorgeous. Benefits: I know I'll have multiple tops, will allow me to flower out other plants. Downsides: takes forever, and I'll need to repot and scrap the root ball. While I've never had real big issues with my fertilizer usage, I can't imagine the soil has much left to offer and I don't need some weird lockout down the line.
Can I ask why you say to always top pure indicas? I have yet to enter the world of mothers and cloning(so many strains I want to try, so little room) but it sure would be nice to know every tip and trick out there.
 

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
Can I ask why you say to always top pure indicas? I have yet to enter the world of mothers and cloning(so many strains I want to try, so little room) but it sure would be nice to know every tip and trick out there.
It's not a hard rule for me as I usually don't top, but I didn't top my PCK or MLI (I did top one, now I've got amazing branches to take cuts from) and I was stuck with bean poles making it difficult to clone.
 

COGrown

Well-Known Member
Can I ask why you say to always top pure indicas? I have yet to enter the world of mothers and cloning(so many strains I want to try, so little room) but it sure would be nice to know every tip and trick out there.
Otherwise it can be rough to get good clone sites, as many have very very little side branching, or the side branches tend to stay close to the main stem and remain pretty short. Good lighting penetration helps, but I've grown a few strains where I've had to flower them out for 1-2 weeks or veg them for an extremely long period of time to get any reasonable clone sites. I think its best to get to know a plant first before you top it, my LA Confidential cut does not like to be topped at all, it can stunt her growth completely for over a week in veg.

When it comes to flowering pure sativas indoors, I think that the best way to do it is from clone, or hit 'em with 12/12 very early in growth, as you will have 2-3 weeks (or more) where you can still cut healthy clones after the flip. I have some ECSD x Appalachia I just started, and since I am expecting those to be a stretch monster I will be flowering them after prob only 2 weeks of veg time, and will just take clones before bud production begins.
 

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
Otherwise it can be rough to get good clone sites, as many have very very little side branching, or the side branches tend to stay close to the main stem and remain pretty short. Good lighting penetration helps, but I've grown a few strains where I've had to flower them out for 1-2 weeks or veg them for an extremely long period of time to get any reasonable clone sites. I think its best to get to know a plant first before you top it, my LA Confidential cut does not like to be topped at all, it can stunt her growth completely for over a week in veg.

When it comes to flowering pure sativas indoors, I think that the best way to do it is from clone, or hit 'em with 12/12 very early in growth, as you will have 2-3 weeks (or more) where you can still cut healthy clones after the flip. I have some ECSD x Appalachia I just started, and since I am expecting those to be a stretch monster I will be flowering them after prob only 2 weeks of veg time, and will just take clones before bud production begins.
Minus the weird bean pole that is my bangi haze (wish I'd topped her, she has no branching!) I wouldn't ever top a sativa, usually there is more than enough branching to have to deal with.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
I've got some regs about to be put in flower; clones taken. I've decided to try 'mainlining' for the first time with them, as the girly clones will live on, even if I screw it up.
This fella that used to hang out here, Mycomaster, did all his plants in mainline. Had a very cool perpetual system going so as soon as something came out something new went in. What I liked about his runs is he always got around three zips and up per plant, and always had four varieties going at least. Very productive garden, low profile, single 600 watt lamp. He is busy setting up a badass room now... When dialled in it seems to really kick ass
 

coolkid.02

Well-Known Member
Otherwise it can be rough to get good clone sites, as many have very very little side branching, or the side branches tend to stay close to the main stem and remain pretty short. Good lighting penetration helps, but I've grown a few strains where I've had to flower them out for 1-2 weeks or veg them for an extremely long period of time to get any reasonable clone sites. I think its best to get to know a plant first before you top it, my LA Confidential cut does not like to be topped at all, it can stunt her growth completely for over a week in veg.

When it comes to flowering pure sativas indoors, I think that the best way to do it is from clone, or hit 'em with 12/12 very early in growth, as you will have 2-3 weeks (or more) where you can still cut healthy clones after the flip. I have some ECSD x Appalachia I just started, and since I am expecting those to be a stretch monster I will be flowering them after prob only 2 weeks of veg time, and will just take clones before bud production begins.
Pure sativas don't always do very well if thrown into flower without reaching maturation in veg.

I had a friend run snowhigh's panama black 12/12 from seed and his female took 6 months to finish...lol. I grew the same strain with 2 months veg and 3-4 months flower. Often pure sativas are much stronger on your 3rd or 4th run, once the plants have fully matured... Equatorial sativas are weird.

At least that's my experience.
 

COGrown

Well-Known Member
Pure sativas don't always do very well if thrown into flower without reaching maturation in veg.

I had a friend run snowhigh's panama black 12/12 from seed and his female took 6 months to finish...lol. I grew the same strain with 2 months veg and 3-4 months flower. Often pure sativas are much stronger on your 3rd or 4th run, once the plants have fully matured... Equatorial sativas are weird.

At least that's my experience.
I'm totally with you on this, I try to let seed plants run as long as possible before I cut clones, and with the longer flowering strains you can definitely tell once they've been around long enough to really find their groove. I really don't expect much more from a seed run of most stretchy sativas other than to get a rough idea of the potential of a plant.
 

Breko

Well-Known Member
WHYYYYYYYY does everything I want (and things I didn't know I wanted yet) all have to drop at the same time?! I'm already WAY over what I should be on beans this month and have strains I probably will not get to before I DIE.

Still.....That pisces drop on zon. Fuuuuuh.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
WHYYYYYYYY does everything I want (and things I didn't know I wanted yet) all have to drop at the same time?! I'm already WAY over what I should be on beans this month and have strains I probably will not get to before I DIE.

Still.....That pisces drop on zon. Fuuuuuh.

Thanks for that.....cuz now I've got to go check out Cannazon and talk myself in to more seeds I don't need.

I need to put you on ignore. :mrgreen:
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
Pure sativas don't always do very well if thrown into flower without reaching maturation in veg.

I had a friend run snowhigh's panama black 12/12 from seed and his female took 6 months to finish...lol. I grew the same strain with 2 months veg and 3-4 months flower. Often pure sativas are much stronger on your 3rd or 4th run, once the plants have fully matured... Equatorial sativas are weird.

At least that's my experience.
Yes indeed, but this does not count if your mom is mature, the clones can just be run.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
I'm totally with you on this, I try to let seed plants run as long as possible before I cut clones, and with the longer flowering strains you can definitely tell once they've been around long enough to really find their groove. I really don't expect much more from a seed run of most stretchy sativas other than to get a rough idea of the potential of a plant.
I have stopped bothering with seed runs. Everything gets mothered, and one test clone goes in. Take a a little longer to find out what you have but you waste a lot less flowering space doing so. Most types now only hit flower around 4 months after I popped the seed. Took me a while tweaking stuff this way but seed runs I can only take that many more of lol... I learned to grow with moms and clones, still prefer it.
 

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
I don't know if I will ever keep moms in the sense. Even in a larger space I'd rather dedicate that to growing larger plants. I'd just have a split veg room for clones and vegging plants.

I do agree that first runs just don't seem to always bring out the best of a plant and it may be due to flowering plants prematurely.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
You can keep mothers pretty neat and small if you want to, some guys keep bonzai mothers that give perfectly normal clones when the time comes. I want to learn how to grow strong bonzai mothers and keep mums in a shelf system. Then I will get all the keepers from the whole fam and have a mother 'vault' :-) long term goal that.
 

calicat

Well-Known Member
Bonzai mothers are a lot of work especially during the hot months of the year. You are watering almost everyday. Making weekly cuts to increase surface area, have utmost control of root mass, repotting and cutting into root mass are duties you would be doing. If you are after 15-20 viable clones every two weeks in a limited vegetation space then bonsai mothers would suit your garden needs.
 
Top