Why are my LEDs so hot!!!???

[Pumert]

I cashed out on a at-600 because it claims not to produce heat however my 4x8 tent got up to 95 degrees Fahrenheit after my first night of its use. My plan is to attach ducting at the top of my tent and have a 430cfm sitting outside the tent on the floor pulling air out does the logistics of this idea seem feasible in cooling the temps? Or will my tent begin the shrink itself from the suction?

 

[SnapsProvolone]

Blower exhausting hot air from top. Passive intake, 2x area of exhaust, down low.

 

[churchhaze]

Anything below 100% efficiency will produce heat. That includes basically everything in this universe.

 

[SnapsProvolone]

And yes led lights make a lot of heat. Those aluminum heatsinks aren't for looks.

 

[Greengenes707]

I cashed out on a at-600 because it claims not to produce heat however my 4x8 tent got up to 95 degrees Fahrenheit after my first night of its use. My plan is to attach ducting at the top of my tent and have a 430cfm sitting outside the tent on the floor pulling air out does the logistics of this idea seem feasible in cooling the temps? Or will my tent begin the shrink itself from the suction?

Did you have no air exchange at all going???

 

[Greengenes707]

Blower exhausting hot air from top. Passive intake, 2x area of exhaust, down low.

Grow tents 101

 

[Pumert]

I had a zipper doorway form air exchange which proved ineffective

 

[Pumert]

Blower exhausting hot air from top. Passive intake, 2x area of exhaust, down low.

Soooooooo.... is that a yes or a no? I understand haste makes waste but many other factors in my life are overwhelming me with stress and anxiety and this is just the straw that broke them camels back

 

[Greengenes707]

I had a zipper doorway form air exchange which proved ineffective

That is not air exchange unfortunately.
The unit operates at ~96*...meaning if you were to leaving it in a averagely insulated room...tents apply here...it should eventually raise the ambient temps to ~96*. Sounds like exactly what happened.

Every LED needs air exchange. Specially one that is ~700w...1w=3.415btu's regardless of source and it's efficiency.

Literally a 6" booster fan(~30$) may even be enough...but a 6inch inline on a dimmer is perfect and at 50% should be fine...and is what I recommend. I use ~35w of inline fan to cool my room of 2 at600's and a 372w DIY in the dead middle of summer. In the winter my fan runs 15mins out of the hour and keeps me below 80* easily...30min at most(would do 20 if the timers allowed).

And like snaps said...you should be pulling air out from the top vents of the tent...not the bottom. Air will naturally/passively be pulled into the tent's bottom/lower vents.

 

[SnapsProvolone]

Soooooooo.... is that a yes or a no? I understand haste makes waste but many other factors in my life are overwhelming me with stress and anxiety and this is just the straw that broke them camels back

It is indeed, what you make it. everything you need to know has been provided (hint blower not on floor but up high in the tent blowing heat out the top, passive intake opening in bottom should be where light is not likely to intrude, back side...)

 

[ProHuman]

OMG.. ikr
I have used HPS in the past, but since I moved I got a nice LED.
I was hearing about how they were not as hot and used less energy.
Well, I had to re-engineer my closet after actually running the light.
Holy crap.. they are just about as hot as the HPS. I had to treat them as such via venting.

 

[churchhaze]

If you have an 700W lamp at 35% efficiency, you will get 245W of light, and 455W of heat.

The light will also be absorbed by the materials in the tent which will be heat as well.

In fact, even the light hitting the leaves will mostly become heat. Only a small percentage of the energy the leaves absorb are used to produce sugars.

 

[Rahz]

You can get a general (relative) idea of how much heat a lamp will put out based on the efficiency. LEDs are very cool compared to CFL, slightly warmer than a 600 or 1000w HPS. Funny that a 1000w HPS puts out the least heat per watt, and CFL puts out the most as it's common to hear the opposite. Some LEDs operate at or close to the efficiency of large HPS bulbs. There's generally not much difference between good quality LEDs and HPS.

Grow tents usually have the framework to support a fan inside the tent. If your tent won't support a fan/filter, what you suggest would work but it seems better to duct the air up so you're not cycling the same hot (and humid) air over and over.

As far as the suction, a fan can cause the walls to pull in. A rigid screen at the canopy level can prevent your space from shrinking.

 

[hyroot]

its not just efficiency its also the materials and dissipation. 1000w hps operating temp is about 480 degrees, Induction (420 watts) operating temp 200 degrees, 700 w apache operating temp 96 degrees. 860 watt cmh and 600 watt hps have the same operating temp 270 degrees

per watt led produces the least amount of heat

 

[Rahz]

The heat is still there, just spread out more and dissipated. In an enclosed area efficiency and wattage should be a direct indicator of how much heat will be in that area. Touching a HPS bulb will be a very different experience than touching a CFL, but the CFL still puts out more heat per watt.

What you point out is a factor in how close the bulbs can be placed to the plant, but not a direct indicator of the total heat production. The total amount of heat being ducted out of an area -w- 1000w HPS (140LPW) will be slightly less than a 1000 -w- LED (120-130 LPW). Please correct me if I am wrong but that is my understanding. Going by Lux the profiles may be slightly different.

 

[Pumert]

That is not air exchange unfortunately.
The unit operates at ~96*...meaning if you were to leaving it in a averagely insulated room...tents apply here...it should eventually raise the ambient temps to ~96*. Sounds like exactly what happened.

Every LED needs air exchange. Specially one that is ~700w...1w=3.415btu's regardless of source and it's efficiency.

Literally a 6" booster fan(~30$) may even be enough...but a 6inch inline on a dimmer is perfect and at 50% should be fine...and is what I recommend. I use ~35w of inline fan to cool my room of 2 at600's and a 372w DIY in the dead middle of summer. In the winter my fan runs 15mins out of the hour and keeps me below 80* easily...30min at most(would do 20 if the timers allowed).

And like snaps said...you should be pulling air out from the top vents of the tent...not the bottom. Air will naturally/passively be pulled into the tent's bottom/lower vents.

yes the fan would be on the floor however the duct would be pulling air from the top, I'm not sure if I said that clearly or if you understood and still disagreed with me. My tent is actually DIY Velcro poly film and the top is the ceiling and I would be pulling from the top of the side of the tent

Lastly if I tried to do it with a booster how would I get the air out without creating a light leak? Hey seem fairly open and susceptible to light Getting through as my 4x8 is located within my veg room

 

[Greengenes707]

The heat is still there, just spread out more and dissipated. In an enclosed area efficiency and wattage should be a direct indicator of how much heat will be in that area. Touching a HPS bulb will be a very different experience than touching a CFL, but the CFL still puts out more heat per watt.

What you point out is a factor in how close the bulbs can be placed to the plant, but not a direct indicator of the total heat production. The total amount of heat being ducted out of an area -w- 1000w HPS (140LPW) will be slightly less than a 1000 -w- LED (120-130 LPW). Please correct me if I am wrong but that is my understanding. Going by Lux the profiles may be slightly different.

Your pretty close. Seems you are using lm/w as the equaling point...you need to take into account the LER of each spectrum and use it's to calculate the efficiency of each source. Hps per seems to be about 380lm/w, wwLED ~325 and cwLED ~320. Then use the lm/w divided by the LER and you have efficiency.

And then this case, the led has more of an advantage because AT's chips are a little more efficient than a new hps, so they are producing more light per watt...and less heat per watt.

yes the fan would be on the floor however the duct would be pulling air from the top, I'm not sure if I said that clearly or if you understood and still disagreed with me. My tent is actually DIY Velcro poly film and the top is the ceiling and I would be pulling from the top of the side of the tent

Lastly if I tried to do it with a booster how would I get the air out without creating a light leak? Hey seem fairly open and susceptible to light Getting through as my 4x8 is located within my veg room

I was thinking you were pulling from down where the fan would be. Your fine then...just inline it out. Are you runnig a carbon filter?...that needs an inline.
For a booster it's just like an inline...use ducting. But inline is what you want/need.

 

[bondoman]

use that heat to your advantage in the winter to heat your room or house in my room it keeps me nice and toasty and it loves the CO2 I give to it in return.

 

[Pumert]

Its an inline I have a carbon filter and a silencer however I'm not sure how to effectively use both if I am pulling instead of pushing thebfilterbis closed on one end

 

[Pumert]

Your pretty close. Seems you are using lm/w as the equaling point...you need to take into account the LER of each spectrum and use it's to calculate the efficiency of each source. Hps per seems to be about 380lm/w, wwLED ~325 and cwLED ~320. Then use the lm/w divided by the LER and you have efficiency.

And then this case, the led has more of an advantage because AT's chips are a little more efficient than a new hps, so they are producing more light per watt...and less heat per watt.

I was thinking you were pulling from down where the fan would be. Your fine then...just inline it out. Are you runnig a carbon filter?...that needs an inline.
For a booster it's just like an inline...use ducting. But inline is what you want/need.

^^^