Another Cree CXA3070 DIY Thread

captainmorgan

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
I have a terrible sense of smell and have a hard time describing what things smell like. But that being said the CK has had a strong odor and has been extremely sticky for at least a week already,will stick to your arms when reaching in to work on them. To me she smells citrus and fruity but others may describe her differently,I'll have to get some other opinions.
 
C

coolj

Well-Known Member
Are you freaking kidding me!!!

I was this close to buying advansed ds300 xte or an apacheteck at200 please post where u purchased parts list.

would 3590s be better?

what about 4000k?


Can i drive the 100w chip at 80%?


thanks guys, yous guys are freaking geniuses!!!!
captainmorgan said:
I blame Supra and his DIY thread for making me do this,I couldn't help myself.
Much of the info that I'll post is thanks to Supra and other contributors in his thread.
I ordered parts for 4 of these and have most of the parts now,so it's time to start the thread.


Cree CXA3070 Z4 3000k
Mean Well LPC-60-1400
Arctic Alpine 11 Plus
Ideal Solderless COB Holder
Ebay 12v Fan Power Supply
Click to expand...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
That phosphor-conversion-warm-white-solid-state-light reaaaaaalllly SUCKS !
:wink:

Don't you think so ,Cap ?

I bet you ,that you could have gone lots better ,by using the very efficient blue diodes,
along with some high efficiency 660 nm deep reds ones ...

At the same exact wattage ..

After all ,all the plants need is red and blue wls ...
Ain't that so ,Captain ?

:P

Great -Amazing Job !
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
Firstly I praise the grower ...

Cxas come second ..

A-W-E-S-O-M-E

CHEERS!
:bigjoint:bongsmilie:peace:
 
captainmorgan

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
coolj said:
Are you freaking kidding me!!!

I was this close to buying advansed ds300 xte or an apacheteck at200 please post where u purchased parts list.

would 3590s be better?

what about 4000k?


Can i drive the 100w chip at 80%?


thanks guys, yous guys are freaking geniuses!!!!
Click to expand...

High bin 3070's are the ticket but hard to find,I use 3000k for flower and I have some 4000k's that I will be putting together for veg. I'm using Meanwell LPC-60-1400 drivers,Arctic Alpine 11 Plus coolers and 12v-2amp power supplies for the fans on the coolers from China I got on ebay. I'll try to post some links tomorrow night.

stardustsailor said:
That phosphor-conversion-warm-white-solid-state-light reaaaaaalllly SUCKS !
:wink:

Don't you think so ,Cap ?

I bet you ,that you could have gone lots better ,by using the very efficient blue diodes,
along with some high efficiency 660 nm deep reds ones ...

At the same exact wattage ..

After all ,all the plants need is red and blue wls ...
Ain't that so ,Captain ?

:P

Great -Amazing Job !
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
Firstly I praise the grower ...

Cxas come second ..

A-W-E-S-O-M-E

CHEERS!
:bigjoint:bongsmilie:peace:
Click to expand...

Yea,these things really suck. I need to get some Christmas lights hooked up.
 
C

coolj

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Looking forward to seeing this build! Cap if you are interested in the technical details, this setup should dissipate about 208W @ 39.3% efficient. 81.7 PAR Watts. 128 lumens/W.

If it makes everyone feel better, I buy LEDs that I don't even need and then have to think up valid uses for them. I have them on my front porch, motion lights, a dozen headlamps, over the stove and a dozen other nerdy projects :joint:

Good call bueno time, I am a big fan of flattening the heatsink, it is surprising how much efficiency you gain from a lower Tj. Last time I wet sanded with 80 grit (alot) ->180-> 320->600->1000. I can vouch for the quality of this sellers silicon carbine wet or dry kits. I highly recommend wet sanding outdoors to avoid inhaling aluminum dust.

Stack of heatsinks drying out, flattening these to 1000 grit took 3-4 hours with a palm sander.
Click to expand...
where did u get your heatsinks?
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
A shift of 1 MacAdam Ellipse (1 step, or 1 SDCM*) will not be noticeable to the human eye,
and along the black body locus, it’s not noticeable for 2 steps.
A 3 step change can be detected by the human eye,
* SDCM = standard deviation of color matching

SDCM CCT @ 3000K
1x . . . . . . ± 30K
2x . . . . . . ± 60K
4x . . . . . . ±100K
7-8x . . . . . ±175K >> ANSI

relevant for growing?

Greengenes707 said:
H=2step...F=4step

From the spec sheet graph, both are well in the ansi quadrangle. But am I correct that the 2 would be preferred if someone had the option(assume all else equal)?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
coolj said:
so , i want the cxa 307000y cb30 for flower?
Click to expand...
Hell ya you do, I want them also. That part number would actually be CXA3070-0000-000N0Y-30F but it might be a while before you find them as they haven't yet come into existence. Link to spec sheet below for more details.

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED Components and Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/ds CXA3070.pdf

Funny thing is goud posted the part number you are looking for in big bold letters, its the first line in his post.

CXA3070-0000-000N00AB-30F (4-step) or 30H (2-step). The stepping is also explained in the spec sheet. ;)
 
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