vero 29 questions

salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
...i dont know, maybe searching in google for "Drill upright"...or "drill stand" or "Dremel Drill Stand"... or ..."Bench Drill Press Stand Drilling Machinist Tool".... or..."hand bench drill stand"

...excuse me my bad english write...

....im in canary island, far far away...

pd,,,not the best prices...but found this model...
http://findingking.net/Bench-Drill-Press-Stand-Drilling-Machinist/M/B001157NC6.htm?traffic_src=GB&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=GB&id=uk

...or... ...i dont know what site or price its correct... its only examples...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUNGE-POWER-DRILLING-STAND-BENCH-PILLAR-PEDESTAL-CLAMP-DRILL-PRESS-VICE-/380971665774?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item58b3ae496e

saludos
 
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indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
i should also add that the vero 29 has several holes from the back
side to the front side of the LED. when i put down my thermal paste,
it came through the LED and i had to wipe it away on several spots.

the wiping wasn't the bad part though, the bad part was how the paste
got into the very thin ring around the COB itself. i had to use tooth picks
to get as much as possible out of the ring, and there is still a very small
amount in the ring. you can see the thermal paste in the second image
in the post above this one. see the darker spots in the ring around the
COB? it is most obvious in the lower left hand of the picture, right by
where the word "bridgelux" is printed on the unit.
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^^^

I'm not sure about the Bridgelux but Cree recommends using Isopropanol to clean the surface of the COB. Maybe you can soak a q-tip and clean it out as the alcohol should help dissolve and remove the hard to get thermal grease.
 
giggywatts

giggywatts

Well-Known Member
i have been a machinist most of my life (54 years) and grew up in a family owned machine shop. unless you are going to drill and tap alot of holes don't buy no lube. go to the kitchen and get a dab of cisco grease. works better then wd40 (water displacement formula 40) which is not a lube, it was made for the military to try to prevent rust and it's not really good at that either.
 
giggywatts

giggywatts

Well-Known Member
indianajones said:
well, i broke my tap bit off in the first hole i tried. it is broken off below
the surface, so i can't just use pliers to remove the broken bit. i have
a genetic condition that causes my hands to shake, so i think tapping
the holes might be out of the question. i was using proper technique
with the tap bit, drill a little in, back it out, drill a little in, back it out, but
my tremors got the best of the bit.

@MrFlux do you think that I will be able to just wipe away the thermal
grease that came pre-applied to the heatsink and use thermal paste
to adhere the LED without screws? It is a Vero 29 and will be driven
at ~70w. I noticed that on your build you just used paste and it seems
to work fine, but you used the vero 10 so I wanted to ask before proceeding.
Click to expand...
brother i know what you are talking about. i have better days then others, i have essential tremors and some days i can't hardly hold a torch.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
indianajones said:
got it finished tonight, really didn't expect how bright it was.








Click to expand...
Is it just me or are there no screws or kapton tape holding that on?

I'm pretty sure the antec diamond TIM isn't a adhesive!

Doesn't look quite centered either..may want to slide it over a bit since it's not set in place yet.

Not trying to be critical at all. It would just suck if it separated and turned into fried eggs..

Maybe just put some kapton tape or get some self tapping metal screws and screw it down.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
giggywatts said:
i have been a machinist most of my life (54 years) and grew up in a family owned machine shop. unless you are going to drill and tap alot of holes don't buy no lube. go to the kitchen and get a dab of cisco grease. works better then wd40 (water displacement formula 40) which is not a lube, it was made for the military to try to prevent rust and it's not really good at that either.
Click to expand...
I thought the water displacement was for keeping fuel line in WWII bombers water free and hence keeping the ice off the lines during flight, so they wouldn't ice over?
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Crisco isn't labeled as a lube either; it's meant for baking. You may want to come up with a better argument. I'm no machinist, so I'm sure you're right that there are better lubes out there.

I've heard some machinists say that WD-40 is perfect for drilling into aluminum. I've had no issue with using it, but I've never tried anything else so far so if the difference is night and day, I wouldn't know it.
 
giggywatts

giggywatts

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
I thought the water displacement was for keeping fuel line in WWII bombers water free and hence keeping the ice off the lines during flight, so they wouldn't ice over?
Click to expand...
it very well may have been used for that too. in the navy we used it for rust prevention and it sucked for that.
 
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indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Is it just me or are there no screws or kapton tape holding that on?

I'm pretty sure the antec diamond TIM isn't a adhesive!

Doesn't look quite centered either..may want to slide it over a bit since it's not set in place yet.

Not trying to be critical at all. It would just suck if it separated and turned into fried eggs..

Maybe just put some kapton tape or get some self tapping metal screws and screw it down.
Click to expand...
you're on point with your commentary :) it's not being used because i can't
grow for the next two years. i was planning on using kapton tape, but i couldn't
find it locally and i have to save all the $ in my business account for my next
shop purchase. this came out as a R&D expense, uncle sam will be paying
me back for it come tax time. i was wondering about self tapping screws, for
future builds, but i don't want to make a bunch of extra holes in the heat sink
on this one. does it really matter if it is centered or is that more of a personal
preference? i don't want to go moving it around again and have to clean thermal
grease from all the tiny holes, which is a PITA when you shake like a crazy
man. i appreciate you pointing it out to me, good to get confirmation on what
my thoughts/suspicions were.

giggywatts said:
brother i know what you are talking about. i have better days then others, i have essential tremors and some days i can't hardly hold a torch.
Click to expand...
my family doc calls mine action tremors. i'm supposed to go see a neurologist
sometime soon, but i have to wait for my insurance to kick in first. should be good
to go around the first of next month.
 
giggywatts

giggywatts

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
Crisco isn't labeled as a lube either; it's meant for baking. You may want to come up with a better argument. I'm no machinist, so I'm sure you're right that there are better lubes out there.

I've heard some machinists say that WD-40 is perfect for drilling into aluminum. I've had no issue with using it, but I've never tried anything else so far so if the difference is night and day, I wouldn't know it.
Click to expand...
hey church how you doing? no crisco is not labeled as a lube but does work very well. i have used it to tap with for years and it cleans off very easy. if you want a good lube go get some tap magic for aluminum, you'll never use wd again.
 
Blakhash

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
Decided to pick up some Vero 29s..4000k per you guys and picos advice.

But my question is about the driver... There are sooo many drivers would any of these Driver work,
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-185h-power-supply.html
it runs at 38fv, and these are 36, and 42??? Would 42 be too much, and yes I plan to run two at a total of 185w, 92.5 w a piece, I know it's high but that's what I want and understand the efficiency, and it's dimmable.
 
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T

thecrabdude

Member
I want to drive 4 veros at 1050mah in series can some one recommend me a good efficient driver to drive them. I plan on driving 3x3000k and 1x5000k

Or 2x3000k 1x27000k 1x5000k
 
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