Hey Hans 80 Owners! Are We Getting The Most Out Of Our Panels? Or Can We Do Better?

Is the Hans 80 panel's cooling adequate?


  • Total voters
    17
  • Poll closed .

FranJan

Well-Known Member
So after owning two of these lads for a bit I've come to some conclusions, (or at least have some opinions on how they operate :)). Like many things in this world there are pluses and minuses to Hans 80 panels but one of the minuses to me is the panels design as it relates to cooling, specifically junction temperature. The Hans panel is basically based on the same design that LED signs use, specifically like what the Chinese make, albeit in a much more sophisticated design as the pictures I've included show. The LEDs are mounted on a thin piece of aluminum that doubles for the heatsink and the back of the Hans "case". There is of course the one 80mm fan that sits atop it too for extra cooling. Now I've noticed some tremendous hotspots on my panels and to me that just begs the question, "How is the junction temperature being effected and what is that doing to my PAR/PPF output/readings and to my efficiency/efficacy?" To me proper junction temp is one of the, if not the key to getting the performance that you want out of your panels/LEDs. Once that junction temp increases, your efficiency drops, and less efficiency is a killer in growing MMJ and especially in monos that you've paid extra for just their efficiency alone.
Now when I see Hans Noise Free model, (65 watts), he's basically just bolted on some heat sinks and charged $30 bucks more than the actively cooled original Hans panel.
Those are also some pretty good sized heatsinks IMO and again make me think that the 80 would benefit big time from some extra cooling. So over the next few weeks I'm going to run this thread like a little notebook and try to figure out how to mod a Hans panel so we'll get a bit more performance and life out of it, but most importantly, without violating Hans' warranty :). So since I need to clean my panels, let's take a look at a Hans 80, (shout out to our friend Scotch here!), and I'm sorry about the quality of the pics :(, but I got a new camera and need to practice a bit more with it:
DSCN0169 - Copy.JPG DSCN0173 - Copy.JPG DSCN0199 - Copy.JPG DSCN0247 - Copy.JPG DSCN0248 - Copy.JPG DSCN0249 - Copy.JPG DSCN0250 - Copy.JPG DSCN0211 - Copy.JPG DSCN0262 - Copy.JPG DSCN0225 - Copy.JPG
 
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PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Buy the 65w remote driver from Hans and plug it into the 80w fixture for the summer runs===== heat/jt problem solved :)

too easy?
 
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FranJan

Well-Known Member
Buy the 65w remote driver from Hans and plug it into the 80w fixture for the summer runs===== heat/jt problem solved :)

too easy?
It may not be that easy but I'm no electronics expert and would have to see a 65 panel to make myself feel better about doing that. Definitely have thought about getting another driver for the summer but that's more for the heat the driver gives off. I'm worried about the LEDs.

Driver
DSCN0287 - Copy.JPG
 
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PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
It may not be that easy but I'm no electronics expert and would have to see a 65 panel to make myself feel better about doing that. Definitely have thought about getting another driver for the summer but that's more for the heat the driver gives off. I'm worried about the LEDs.
Well aren't the bin/diodes/configurations exactly the same between the 65w & 80w?? Only thing I can think of is maybe a slightly thicker MCPCB on the 80w; no compatibility issues. It should be plug and play Froggy.

Lowering the wattage will reduce the heat output on both the driver and leds


I'll email Hans to know for sure , will probably get you an answer in 2-4 weeks...lol

Edit...........you added a pic of your driver, very smart froggy!. Now we just need a 65watt(newest ver.) owner to do the same.
 
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FranJan

Well-Known Member

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Well aren't the bin/diodes/configurations exactly the same between the 65w & 80w?? Only thing I can think of is maybe a slightly thicker MCPCB on the 80w; no compatibility issues?. It should be plug and play Froggy.

Lowering the wattage will reduce the heat output on both the driver and leds


I'll email Hans to know for sure , will probably get you an answer in 2-4 weeks...lol
Lowering wattage isn't what I want really. I want the output I paid for :). Removing heat from the vicinity of the diodes and panel is what I really want. I love the size and weight* but IMHO the design is to light weight for proper cooling, especially when dealing with heat like we have to.

Thanks for emailing Han's btw. I think I talked to him once.

*Hey Illumitex, not all LED panels need to be heavy like I just read on your web site. Dumbasses :dunce:.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Lowering wattage isn't what I want really. I want the output I paid for :). Removing heat from the vicinity of the diodes and panel is what I really want. I love the size and weight* but IMHO the design is to light weight for proper cooling, especially when dealing with heat like we have to.

Thanks for emailing Han's btw. I think I talked to him once.

*Hey Illumitex, not all LED panels need to be heavy like I just read on your web site. Dumbasses :dunce:.
Cheapest and easiest is to switch out the fan for a 120-140mm (credit Digi)......the fixed wattage output will determine the rpms obviously.


Heavy=== Quality........................didn't you know? :wink:
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
We know that reds "suffer" relatively quickly from JT.........but damn those xbd charts ^^ aren't pretty

maybe hans would sell you the modified backing/fins from the noise-free^^ 65w watt version + the 80mm fan you have already installed==== should be a huge improvement without a time consuming mod
 
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FranJan

Well-Known Member
Not a heat sink expert, but I know the basic principle is increased surface area = more heat dissipation. I'd imagine they'd run much cooler with many more fins and not the huge gap between the fins.
The question also is can I get away with using something like these or do I really have to go big. Copper would be nice but once I get over a certain size I might as well get a split AC :P. jk
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Computer-Copper-Memory-Adhesive/dp/B00EQ1ZAZ4/ref=sr_1_4/191-8455627-1171507?ie=UTF8&qid=1407943670&sr=8-4&keywords=heat+sink+adhesive
index - Copy.jpg
Bolting something onto the Hans is starting to look like the real option since the modular design of his panel lends itself to that. All I would have to do is drill through a heatsink, easy, and get longer bolts, even easier. :)
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Cheapest and easiest is to switch out the fan for a 120-140mm (credit Digi)......the fixed wattage output will determine the rpms obviously.


Heavy=== Quality........................didn't you know? :wink:
We know that reds "suffer" relatively quickly from JT.........but damn those xbd charts ^^ aren't pretty

maybe hans would sell you the modified backing/fins from the "silent" 65w watt version + the 80mm fan you have already installed==== should be a huge improvement without a time consuming mod
Removing the fan would make adding a heatsink even easier and up your efficiency but probably void the warranty. Not that that ever stopped my dumb ass :). And yeah those XBD reds really suffer and the reflector becomes useless too when the heat is on. The Osrams I'm not certain about yet. I see amazing growth from those panels when the temps in the growrooms are good. Not so great when it's 90F but that has to be expected anyway, though this weather lately is a blessing, huh?
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
heatsinkusa sinks are definitely nice, and tailored to the size you want (mostly), and/but all their profiles are either meant for passive or semi-active cooling. (fat fins with wide spacing)

I actually think this is a plus when you absolute rely on the sink to work to prevent catastrophic failure. I hooked up a chinese cob to a 80mm active heatsink/fan and without the fan, the sink got blistering hot.. scary what would happen if the fan went off for whatever reason.
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
upload_2014-8-13_16-8-16.png
Looks like the OSRAM puts up a good fight to heat but heat still wins in the end, though I'm still not 100% sure if this is the correct graph.

So then just get a few used cpu sinks and bolt them on. I can get cpu sinks for $1.50 a pop.
If I think I know what you're saying it wouldn't work because it would mean cutting through the circuit layout. You need to look at Hans' panel better to see what I'm talking about when I say bolt on. Could plaster them on though.

Decisions, decisions.....tick, tick, tick = $$$ and all that shit.
 

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
So what are the stipulations to not void you warranty? I'm all for swapping for more a efficient driver, get less w's lost and less heat, then some more powerful fan(s) (quieter?) I'd fit as many fans as i can on it. Does it void using a different PSU? That and you might add a 18" oscillating fan. Might help. Gah! Other then that I can't junk of much you can do besides drive em less which I think would be worth it since you're probably angling them anyways (efficiency!) btw, you gonna send me some f those Herer seeds or what? ;)
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
So what are the stipulations to not void you warranty? I'm all for swapping for more a efficient driver, get less w's lost and less heat, then some more powerful fan(s) (quieter?) I'd fit as many fans as i can on it. Does it void using a different PSU? That and you might add a 18" oscillating fan. Might help. Gah! Other then that I can't junk of much you can do besides drive em less which I think would be worth it since you're probably angling them anyways (efficiency!) btw, you gonna send me some f those Herer seeds or what? ;)
Ideally I would like to avoid adding something that makes me physically alter the panel to get better performance, that's why I'm trying to think of things to do the panel that let me return it to stock easily and avoid nullifying the warranty. The way the reflectors and eyelets bolt onto the Hans makes bolting something on feasible.

There's quite a bit of extra IC's in his design, probably because of the different diodes running on 1 + circuits. Hmmm, I'm going to clean my other panel out tonight and need to see how many circuits he's actually running. It might just be one! I didn't think to check that out. Anyway when I look at his design something tells me to slow down with the different driver, though it probably doesn't matter after all as long as it has the right numbers. I'm thinking some of those ICs are DC to DC drivers for stepping up and down.

And the Jack? It's mine! All MINE!!! LOL I'm still waiting on it atm but it's any day now. I have no idea what I'm gonna do with all this gear I'm getting bro.
 
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