Looking for a driver

Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
Thank you to all those who give me their help. I see that there are merry pranksters around.
I think my choice will be the driver Meanwell LCM-40-700mA, I will add some LEDs, but what charge we must use a driver (watts), 100% or a little less (40W or 34W of LEDs) at full load?
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
That is an interesting driver, to bad it won't run off 110v. Very versatile, I like how you can select the output current with the dip switches for different setups. According to the spec sheet, it runs most efficient at 100% and I'm pretty sure Mean Well drivers are designed to run safely at 100% load.

lcm-chart.jpg​
 
Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
EpicFail thank you, but can you explain to me the interest of the model LCM-40DA versus LCM-40 simple. If I understand the interest is just dimming several drivers at the same time?
 
Bueno Time

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
So not to hijack OPs thread but a relevant question.

Why would you choose the HLN-40H-42B over the HLN-40H-42A, when the 42A has dimmability built in and the B requires modification to dim (add pot./resistor or combo)?

The A is 7 weeks ARO through Jameco and the B is 3 days ARO through Jameco both the same price.

The B with a 100k pot sounds like a nice idea for a dimmable driver setup for my veg light I want to build. The cost is 3x the price of the fasttech 900mA driver but $20 more for dimmability isnt a bad trade off. I also like the 42A/B is 960mA max and the fasttech is only around 880mA. May continue my search for a dimmable driver that can go up a little higher in current around 1200, 1400, or maybe even up around 2000mA, since the XML2s can take a nice amount of current (3000mA). It would be nice to have the ability to crank the light up if needed to give the plants a boost of growth or run lower current for clones/seedlings/mothers.
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
Kraamm said:
EpicFail thank you, but can you explain to me the interest of the model LCM-40DA versus LCM-40 simple. If I understand the interest is just dimming several drivers at the same time?
Click to expand...

The DA version has to be dimmed with push button interface built into the driver, the non DA version can be dimmed with an external pot or by PWM. So the non DA version you can dim multiple drivers at once or with a automatic light controller eg. fade the lights on in the morning and out at night.

@Bueno Time the same applies to the B version of the driver you can automate or control multiple drivers at one time. For most people they are just going to set it and forget it, or maybe just adjust the brightness weekly which could still be a bitch when dealing with alot of drivers. I feel that the A is limiting to someone like me who likes to tinker as much as I do.

I bought the last of the HLN-60H-42Bs from Jameco also and there was a 7 week wait on the HLG-185H-C1050B so I had to get them from Powergate. The pricing was the actually cheaper for them from powergate so I bought them all but one.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Ya with the B version you can dim down to 10% verus 50% for the A version, which might be useful for certain applications. Also I think you could dim a bunch of drivers with one knob which might be useful for certain builds. I am planning on using an HLG-185H-C1050B to grid charge then trickle charge/balance the batteries in my hybrid civic. The B version will give me a much better range to work with.
 
Bueno Time

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
epicfail said:
The DA version has to be dimmed with push button interface built into the driver, the non DA version can be dimmed with an external pot or by PWM. So the non DA version you can dim multiple drivers at once or with a automatic light controller eg. fade the lights on in the morning and out at night.

@Bueno Time the same applies to the B version of the driver you can automate or control multiple drivers at one time. For most people they are just going to set it and forget it, or maybe just adjust the brightness weekly which could still be a bitch when dealing with alot of drivers. I feel that the A is limiting to someone like me who likes to tinker as much as I do.

I bought the last of the HLN-60H-42Bs from Jameco also and there was a 7 week wait on the HLG-185H-C1050B so I had to get them from Powergate. The pricing was the actually cheaper for them from powergate so I bought them all but one.
Click to expand...
SupraSPL said:
Ya with the B version you can dim down to 10% verus 50% for the A version, which might be useful for certain applications. Also I think you could dim a bunch of drivers with one knob which might be useful for certain builds. I am planning on using an HLG-185H-C1050B to grid charge then trickle charge/balance the batteries in my hybrid civic. The B version will give me a much better range to work with.
Click to expand...
Nice, yeah I was looking at the PDFs more and figured pretty much that out myself after posting the question. Until I actually examined the PDFs, I didnt realize the A only dims down so far (not very far) and the B can be setup to dim way down with a pot/resistor. Also being able to control dimming of multi drivers with B version makes a lot of sense too.

If I go with the 40H-42 I will get the B version for sure and a 100K pot and 10K resistor so I should be good for 10-100% current adjustability.

Thanks boys.
 
Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
The user manual say to use a miniature Circuit breaker with an adequate current rating to protect the lighting system. I think it is a fuse but I know not choose his current (more or less 700mA )? It must be instaled on the NEUTRAL or on the LIVE ?
 
Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
Guod thank you, I had not realized that the fuse had to be before the driver on the AC cable (live). I think I have all the information to purchase the necessary equipment.
 
Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
Guod, which means the letters M & T for fuses (fast, semi-fast or slow)?
I did a long search, but no manufacturer use them.
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
Kraamm said:
Guod, which means the letters M & T for fuses (fast, semi-fast or slow)?
I did a long search, but no manufacturer use them.
Click to expand...
FF = superfast
F = fast(Quick blow)
M = medium slow ( medium time lag)
T = slow
TT = superslow

sometimes with
1A T1A 250v Slow Blow 20mm x 5mm Glass Fuse
http://www.amazon.co.uk/250v-Slow-Blow-Glass-electrosmart®/dp/B0036A2MRK


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Quick-Blow-Glass-Fuse-20mm/dp/B003O93UVA
"Product Description
5mm x 20mm Quick Fast Blow Glass Fuse. To ensure you order the correct fuse, check the fuse specifications stamped on the metal ring of the fuse you wish to replace. V = Voltage / A = Amps / mA = milli-amps. You may also see T or F. T = Time lag delay, or slow blow fuse. F = Fast or quick blow fuse. If there is no T or F present, it can be assumed the fuse is a Quick / Fast Blow Fuse."

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/25055/slow-blow-vs-fast-acting-fuse
 
Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
I did some research on thermal pastes, but no indication if the Prolimatech PK3 is a glue. I do not want LEDs fall (no holder like with CXA). Otherwise what would be the best thermal paste glue to use?
 
Maris

Maris

Member
if you looking to a driver who can transport your 500kg hashish adn 5000kg with cannabis buds all right oouu yee look in the france lookin in the france. fashion lady
 
Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
Guod thank you, this is an option, but I would prefer something more efficient and fit into the imperfection of metal.
 
S

S_K

New Member
SupraSPL said:
Ya with the B version you can dim down to 10% verus 50% for the A version, which might be useful for certain applications. Also I think you could dim a bunch of drivers with one knob which might be useful for certain builds. I am planning on using an HLG-185H-C1050B to grid charge then trickle charge/balance the batteries in my hybrid civic. The B version will give me a much better range to work with.
Click to expand...
SupraSPL,

I sent you a PM over at IC. Did the ~5K pot trick let you run the fan while it was still connected to the car? If so, have you had any issues?

Thanks,

Steve
 
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