How to raise ppm without dropping ph

i was having mag def on my girls but i use led which i just found out causes that so i use a quarter strength each feed an i nursed all my girls back ... mag def will usually start at your lower leaves i believe looks like your tips are burned brownish color leaves will curl up also i believe there is a post somewere here that someone put a while back that is really helpful list all the signs of def an there symptoms just use the search engine hope that helps
 
Guys, come on. Ppm and ph are completely separate and should always be treated as so. If not you give up the most crucial aspect of hydro growing. Yes nutes will change pH but they are not to be used to adjust pH. Get your ppm where you want it then, using pH adjusters, set the ph.
 
superstoner1 said:
They need more nutes. Bump ppm to 350-450 and then adjust ph to 5.6-5.8.
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thanks for the info i looked at your grow and youre the shit so so im going to do what you suggested i gotta mag def too how many ppms of calmg should i run and how long before i see improvement i also foliar feed with epsom salt
 
Macmac124 said:
thanks for the info i looked at your grow and youre the shit so so im going to do what you suggested i gotta mag def too how many ppms of calmg should i run and how long before i see improvement i also foliar feed with epsom salt
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follow the label for 1/4 strength. don't foliage feed w/ Epsom or any Calcium/Magnesium supplement
 
FYI... Dyna grow silica is a great substitute for PH up.

Mix your Rez, add a couple glugs...bam! 5.7.

I say cluggs because I have a 300 gallon Rez. Add a capful or so. It's very strong PH up!

Plus it adds minerals that no base nutes have. Thickens stems, helps with disease attacks. Good stuff
 
And oh yeah... Foliar feeding does NOT clog pores and prevent transpiration. People (including me) have dunked their plants in neem oil..if this doesn't clog stomata nothing will

Actually to the contrary, spraying water or whatever on your leaves can rinse dust off of them. Dust can clog stomata in addition to reducing the amount of light available for photosynthesis.
 
The problem using silica is some makers will make pH go up and some down, plus the plants absorb it from the res which changes ph
 
I wanted to add that from my understanding it is important to add your PH up before you add your nutes to prevent them from separating out of the solution. If you add ph up, or silica to a gallon of mixed nutrients you will see a white cloud form when the liquids mix. From what I've read on it, this is supposedly various micro nutrients leaving the solution and floating to the bottom. If you mix the liquids in the opposite order this reaction won't occur, and the nutrients stay in solution. I did a small batch to determine how much protek I needed to add for my whole res to get the PH just right when it was all mixed up. I found that with my tap water when I mix a fresh res up if I add 1tsp per gallon of protek, mix well and then add my other nutes that it gives me a nice 5.7ish ph and my usual 1000ish ppm. I've also found that the only time I have to add the ph up is when I mix a fresh res. The rest of the time as I top off the res with either plain water or nutes the ph pretty much always floats in just the right spot.
 
I'm just curious, as I was completely un aware of this situation for years because I had NEVER needed to use ph up until my most recent grow was set up at in a new city. Do you ever actually need to use ph up SS?

Other then when I empty and refill a res I NEVER have to adjust PH either way. However I am able to add the ph up(in this case protek) first mix and then add nutes because have measured how much I need by doing it the other way first. I put the same thing in my res pretty much every time I change it, unless I'm trying out something different on purpose.

So I mixed up a gallon of nutes and added some (1tsp) of protek and low and behold ph is 5.7ish. So I poured that on my flowers in the yard, and filled my res with fresh tap water. I added the 1 tsp per gallon of protek, letting it mix as it filled. Once it is almost full I add my calmag, and flora nova (currently) then mix and check ppm and ph. Once again just like in my gallon test, ph and ppm are both right were I want them.

The cloud from the chemical reaction was what made me decide to try it the other way.
 
Thundercat..it is pretty well known..but not as much as it should be, that you should dilute your PH adjusters prior to adding them.

I add one liter to a gallon bottle and fill the rest up with water. This will reduce the old "oops, I added to much" and also prevent nutrients from floculating.

Although info suspect that nutes go right back into suspension afterwards as there is never any residue in my Rez but who knows, certainly not good to blast them with PH adjusters.
 
legallyflying said:
FYI... Dyna grow silica is a great substitute for PH up.
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No it's not. It is not a substitute at all for potassium hydroxide aka "PH up".

Assuming you had one of your usual brain farts and meant Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt....it is not designed to adjust pH. It was designed to add silicon and provide a small hit of K.

Mix your Rez, add a couple glugs...bam! 5.7.

I say cluggs because I have a 300 gallon Rez. Add a capful or so. It's very strong PH up!

Plus it adds minerals that no base nutes have. Thickens stems, helps with disease attacks. Good stuff
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Right. A capful in 300 gallons is going to make a HUGE difference plus thicken stems and ward off nasty diseases.

You are full of shit..........
 
I don't add PH up if I don't have to...

If you read it correctly I said I add a couple clugs of it. Probably around 1/2 cup.

Those with usual size reservoirs should add about a capful.

Silica is know to thicken stems, fight insect damage and disease, and there is also some good research out there about preventing root issues in hydro.

http://www.cannabis.info/UK/library/5474-the-marvels-of-silicon/

http://www.flairform.com/Products/silica_hydroponics.htm

http://scienceinhydroponics.com/201...on-is-good-for-and-how-it-should-be-used.html

And..last but not least, probably one of the most informative posts on this entire website (unless you count a bitch fest over defoliation a positive contribution)

https://www.rollitup.org/t/beneficial-additives-in-hydroponics-a-must-read.574371/
 
If you read it correctly I said I add a couple clugs of it. Probably around 1/2 cup.
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I know what you said, and it is not correct. AGAIN, like water and oil there is a difference between pH UP and DG's ProTekt regarding its intent.

I have studied beneficial elements such as S while you was still messin' in your drawers, son. In fact, I'm experimenting with one now that was designed as part of a project with the U.S. Government to encourage the internal production of defensive plant proteins, SAR. There are hundreds of studies on its use for every crop you can think of - Keyplex 350DP. http://www.keyplex.com/en/company/r-and-d/publications-and-articles-1.html

Since the mid 90’s scientific data confirms that KeyPlex elicits the production of defensive proteins (SAR), stimulates plants resistance to infection and aids in eradicating the damaging effects of environments stresses. In 2004 the EPA approved KeyPlex 350, the only biopesticide with micronutrients, providing growers a safe and effective alternative to traditional materials.

Kicker is there are very few plants that respond, if at all, to such beneficials whether it be in the form of elements, hormones. Just because milo responds well to S doesn't mean you'll get any benefit with cannabis and vice versus. There are just as many field tests using Keyplex products which reflected there was no beneficial pesticidal activity while using it as those that did benefit. Depends on the plant material. And to what degree is the response is another question? 0? 50% improvement? 90%?

IOW, don't believe everything you read (especially at this site as shown above) and do your homework.


Cruz'sGoodies#2.jpg
 
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