Really getting bummed newbie...

Le Cochon

Active Member
Just to say lets look at this first try as a science experiment where no ones advice will be used against them ;) My lesson learned take better notes (In my alter life I am busy as hell and this takes ALOT OF TIME doesn't it?) I transplanted them during flowering, something I forgot to mention, but it was 5 week ago so that means they have been flowering for more than 8 weeks. they could be root bound I thought this morning because the best looking one, is the youngest and the smallest one. They are in five gallon pails. The sickest one has the LEAST amount of soil in its pail 3/4 full vs to the top for the others. If I can make the one really healthy looking continue that in itself will be a great thing....off to work...see more later. AS always thank you all..
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
that yellowing is caused by a nitrogen def in the plant it's pulling it from the bottom leaves. I would just start your flowering strength ferts and add some CAL/MAG.

CalMag contains some nitrogen so you can fix your spots (mag def) and your yellowing (nitrogen def) all with about 5 ml per gallon of water for the next few waterings
Bam...I am on it...pictures in a few days...today's look aweful so why send 'em... Thx again...sneaking back to work area....
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
Update: The front two are the ugly ones in terms of seemingly similar leaf issues...now the front right has rust spots but the buds got a little thicker. The leaves on the right-front RF girl are thick feeling ever so slight yellowing. The LF girl looks doomed...advanced yellowing, growing rust patches, stunted bud development. The others..my best one has burnt leaf tips with the tips curled up and dead, just at the tips inward 4mm. They look like they have a long time except for the one in the left front. I haven't fed them anything yet due to flushing them three days ago. I have FoxFarm FX14002 32 oz. FoxFarm Big Bloom Liquid Concentrate and cal/mag. So it is available... Here they are from left front counter clockwise. The last picture is what the front left looked like about a week ago...Your feedback is appreciated.
 

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miccyj

Well-Known Member
Now start feeding them, I dont know much about the FF nutrients coz we dont get them here, but I would start at 1/2 strength and work my way up a little bit at a time.
 

Figgy

Well-Known Member
I'm finishing up my first grow, and using Earth Juice. I got a lot of yellowing and dead leaves starting week 4 of flower. It has progressed to most fan leaves are gone by the time I harvest. Mine are ending up finishing ok. I will be swapping nutes though next run.
 

denarfer

Member
White Widow, 600 watt light, earth juice by the numbers, four plants scrogged, they looked great up until they went into flowering. One looks awesome and the other three are looking the same, shitty! My issue the buds changed from being plump to now, stretching and turning yellow with rusty spots all over the worst afflicted female. I tested the soil PH and it is 6.5 in the worst one and 6.7-7 in all the others. I thought I slammed my first grow out of the ball park now this! :( I'm ready to wack the yellowing one to make room for the others to hopefully take off because it just doesn't make sense...opinions are fine because really without the proper diagnostic tools, who can actually say with something nefarious like the little devil making them stretch. Also the issue is causing them to get yellow on the newer shots near the top and it is getting lots of rusty spots. They actually were fat at first but are doing what you see in the picture. One plant is booming! I don't get it because they were all treated precisely the same. Thank you all for any feedback. View attachment 3186199
White Widow, 600 watt light, earth juice by the numbers, four plants scrogged, they looked great up until they went into flowering. One looks awesome and the other three are looking the same, shitty! My issue the buds changed from being plump to now, stretching and turning yellow with rusty spots all over the worst afflicted female. I tested the soil PH and it is 6.5 in the worst one and 6.7-7 in all the others. I thought I slammed my first grow out of the ball park now this! :( I'm ready to wack the yellowing one to make room for the others to hopefully take off because it just doesn't make sense...opinions are fine because really without the proper diagnostic tools, who can actually say with something nefarious like the little devil making them stretch. Also the issue is causing them to get yellow on the newer shots near the top and it is getting lots of rusty spots. They actually were fat at first but are doing what you see in the picture. One plant is booming! I don't get it because they were all treated precisely the same. Thank you all for any feedback. View attachment 3186199
Greetings: Le Cochon

You might try these web sites they have pictures and descriptions for doing plant diagnostics.
http://www.thenug.com/galleries/diagnose-your-sick-marijuana-plants
http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms
And there is this diagnosis test that also might help with your plants problem good luck.

Key on Nutrient Disorders http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/nutrientdisorders.html#keys

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you’ve found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.

1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading…
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram’s horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8…
8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won’t flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10…
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
Greetings: Le Cochon

You might try these web sites they have pictures and descriptions for doing plant diagnostics.
http://www.thenug.com/galleries/diagnose-your-sick-marijuana-plants
http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms
And there is this diagnosis test that also might help with your plants problem good luck.

Key on Nutrient Disorders http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/nutrientdisorders.html#keys

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you’ve found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.

1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading…
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram’s horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8…
8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won’t flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10…
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.
Wow! That is going to be catalogued. Thank you for the flowchart-like information.
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
I'm finishing up my first grow, and using Earth Juice. I got a lot of yellowing and dead leaves starting week 4 of flower. It has progressed to most fan leaves are gone by the time I harvest. Mine are ending up finishing ok. I will be swapping nutes though next run.
They looked incredible and started budding on the strongest of notes but mine just went to the "dark side" right around that time as well.
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
The earth juice bloom had lower K than P and I thought it should be the other way around so I picked up the Fox Farm but I have no experience to say if it is proper. It contains small amounts of nitrogen which seemed appropriate since mine were really yellowing. I'll test it only on the worst of them....One of them looks very nice...its happening to it! It is swelling up with resin finally!!! But, it is getting a brunt edge and tips...otherwise very green. Hopefully nothing happens to that one.
 

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FrozenChozen

Well-Known Member
The earth juice bloom had lower K than P and I thought it should be the other way around so I picked up the Fox Farm but I have no experience to say if it is proper. It contains small amounts of nitrogen which seemed appropriate since mine were really yellowing. I'll test it only on the worst of them....One of them looks very nice...its happening to it! It is swelling up with resin finally!!! But, it is getting a brunt edge and tips...otherwise very green. Hopefully nothing happens to that one.
recent study shows flowering plants need higher Phosphorus (P) than Potassium (K)
I hope I haven't been over watering them and that is part of the issue...I'll slap myself.
How often do you water? every 2-3 days or when the pot/plant dries up and gets significantly lighter (less heavy)?
if the tips are getting burned.... how often are you feeding with ferts/nutrients?
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
Thank you for your help friend...When the soil felt dry to my finger tips about 3-4 inches or once a week into the 5 gallon containers. I think I over-watered the front two and they do show the worst issues. My fear is the left back one, the prize winner, showing those burns on the tips and a slight overall yellowing so slight it was only noticeable from the series of pictures. Very incremental. I was feeding them every watering but not even full strength. However the front right which IS getting a scary rusting on its leaves is showing all new bud development and they are totally changing again to popping and getting full. The leaves feel unnaturally thick and like I mentioned have ugly rust spots erupting! This is all very aggravating to a person who isn't tedious in the way one is required to be. Next time I am writing down my every interaction....one gets lazy after exhausting daily work...Check back please in a week as I am not touching them for any reason until those buckets all thoroughly dry out. They got the Clam-mag and ph down yesterday with a teaspoon per gallon of FF bloom that I mentioned buying.
 

Le Cochon

Active Member
recent study shows flowering plants need higher Phosphorus (P) than Potassium (K)

How often do you water? every 2-3 days or when the pot/plant dries up and gets significantly lighter (less heavy)?
if the tips are getting burned.... how often are you feeding with ferts/nutrients?
Thanks also for mentioning more recent studies to the P and K concerns and data.
 

FrozenChozen

Well-Known Member
1- the prize winner, showing those burns on the tips and a slight overall yellowing so slight it was only noticeable from the series of pictures. Very incremental.
2- I was feeding them every watering but not even full strength.
3- However the front right which IS getting a scary rusting on its leaves is showing all new bud development and they are totally changing again to popping and getting full. The leaves feel unnaturally thick and like I mentioned have ugly rust spots erupting!
4- They got the Clam-mag and ph down yesterday with a teaspoon per gallon of FF bloom that I mentioned buying.
1- burns on tips AND yellowing could possibly indicate a toxic salinity level ..... did you flush this guy?
2- That's a bit overkill.... you should start at 1/4 strength 1 to 2 times a week maybe every other watering then build up to full strength.
3- Classic Calcium/Magnesium deficiency.... Stick to the Cal-Mag with almost every water
4- why exactly are you adding PH down?

*edit*
I looked at your pics again.....
1- toxic build up of some nutrient..... whether its salt or something else I could not be sure.... Once its dry take it somewhere that you can water it til it drains CLEAR water... let it dry out again and keep close eyes on it, adjustments in soil take a few days to see results.... its not going to disappear just so you are clear, but rather keep it from happening more or worse
3- Classic Calcium/Magnesium deficiency...
 
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Le Cochon

Active Member
1- burns on tips AND yellowing could possibly indicate a toxic salinity level ..... did you flush this guy?
2- That's a bit overkill.... you should start at 1/4 strength 1 to 2 times a week maybe every other watering then build up to full strength.
3- Classic Calcium/Magnesium deficiency.... Stick to the Cal-Mag with almost every water
4- why exactly are you adding PH down?

*edit*
I looked at your pics again.....
1- toxic build up of some nutrient..... whether its salt or something else I could not be sure.... Once its dry take it somewhere that you can water it til it drains CLEAR water... let it dry out again and keep close eyes on it, adjustments in soil take a few days to see results.... its not going to disappear just so you are clear, but rather keep it from happening more or worse
3- Classic Calcium/Magnesium deficiency...
1- burns on tips AND yellowing could possibly indicate a toxic salinity level ..... did you flush this guy?
2- That's a bit overkill.... you should start at 1/4 strength 1 to 2 times a week maybe every other watering then build up to full strength.
3- Classic Calcium/Magnesium deficiency.... Stick to the Cal-Mag with almost every water
4- why exactly are you adding PH down?

*edit*
I looked at your pics again.....
1- toxic build up of some nutrient..... whether its salt or something else I could not be sure.... Once its dry take it somewhere that you can water it til it drains CLEAR water... let it dry out again and keep close eyes on it, adjustments in soil take a few days to see results.... its not going to disappear just so you are clear, but rather keep it from happening more or worse
3- Classic Calcium/Magnesium deficiency...
The water comes out brown as heck; it is not soil but potting mix. I didn't know I should run water through it until it comes out clear(ish)...more good feedback. See you next week. Thank you for helping.
 
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