How can I make my grow tent setup more efficient?

Red1966

Well-Known Member
If the inline fan is INSIDE your tent you are adding heat to your tent. Move that inline fan outside your tent, less heat and more room.
Any heat the inline fan generates is immediately exhausted as the motor is in the center of the airstream.
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Get rid of the giant hood, put the fan so that it blows between the lights and the top of the plants. That hood, just traps heat, especially with all those BENDS in your air ducts...

Bends in air ducting can reduce air flow by up to 90%.. just add up the degrees of bend, and that is the reduction of your air flow.

So in other words, if you have 2 x 90 degrees(which is 1/2 of 360 degrees), you're reducing your air flow by 50%.

If you insist on keeping that hood(which you don't need), at least take all of the bends out of your ducting, it will help cool it.

Plus removing the hood will allow you to raise your lights up higher, and give you a little more head room for your plants.
 

edispilf

Active Member
One thing from the pic I see is that you have a little 6" fan pushing the hot ambient air back down. Put it under and point it up. That may not fix it all, but it will help.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Thanks! You wouldn't see any problem with the fan being in the room attached directly to 6" PVC through wall, to ducting, to justughfilter box? Want most all my noise in the room.
i personally like over kill ...........i would use 8 or 10 inch pcv with the 6 inch fan

as for noise ........i can offer u 2 things
1 the 8/10 inch pvc pipe ..............u want to line it with foam from cheap bed toppers (this is what the ducting muffler is ) .........if u make this u want to leave atleast 4 inchs of clear room so the air can pass........the foam is on the side to aborb the sound and keep it from echoing down the ducting

2 thing is the fan itself if u are going to be in a stead cool air (60s) u can incase the fan itself in a box lined with same cheap bed topper .........if u do this i would invest in one of those cheap outdoor indoor monitors with a wired outside(take the outside senor and put it on the fan then incase it ) it will give u the temp anything above 110 remove it from the box (at 130 the fan will cut out)

my personal exp with the system it sounds like a fan on medium or high ..............to me it is white noise i can sleep in the room

my final thing is u might think about one of the dyson bladeless fan
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/gadgets/home/dyson-bladeless-fan.htm
 

bravedave

Well-Known Member
here u go
Hey! Just for fun, the fact my room was pushing 90F today, and the fact that I do not have time to jerry-rig my A/C unit right now, I combined the justugh-filterbox concept with the red-neck A/C by taking an igloo cooler, cutting a circle on one end to perfectly envelope the 6" intake pvc sticking out of my room, and cutting a square in the cooler cover slightly smaller than a 12" hepa furnace filter and of course duct-taping the filter over it. I then threw in some ice packs. The cover was already pretty tight...if not air tight. Tomorrow will be the test. Actually today was sort of a test as although there was no dramatic drop in temp it seemed to certainly thwart the rise. Tomorrow I hope to have increased ice and will be starting before the temps begin to rise. Fingers are crossed because this would be almost too easy. I do wonder if the swamp cooler pads might be a nice addition
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Hey! Just for fun, the fact my room was pushing 90F today, and the fact that I do not have time to jerry-rig my A/C unit right now, I combined the justugh-filterbox concept with the red-neck A/C by taking an igloo cooler, cutting a circle on one end to perfectly envelope the 6" intake pvc sticking out of my room, and cutting a square in the cooler cover slightly smaller than a 12" hepa furnace filter and of course duct-taping the filter over it. I then threw in some ice packs. The cover was already pretty tight...if not air tight. Tomorrow will be the test. Actually today was sort of a test as although there was no dramatic drop in temp it seemed to certainly thwart the rise. Tomorrow I hope to have increased ice and will be starting before the temps begin to rise. Fingers are crossed because this would be almost too easy. I do wonder if the swamp cooler pads might be a nice addition
why not try some dry ice ................if your humitidy is fairly high it should make a nice cooling fog ..................nice idea and work i might try it myself if i do hydro under a HID light
 

Herb Man

Well-Known Member
Hey fellas,

Im having an issue now that the weather is getting warmer in my country...

Any suggestions?View attachment 3137108
Not sure I followed everything you said regarding your set up, but here's my contribution.

Try to get your air/intake from somewhere cool.

Try to get as much hot air out of your growing space area as quickly as possible.

Try to keep not just the tent cool, but the area around the tent cool.

Your air cooled hood would act more efficiently if you turned it around, thus taking the U bend out of it, the other end of the ducting should have a stocking over it and be placed in an open window/vent (not on the ground floor) discretley with something covering it so it cant be seen.

Good luck.
 

Herb Man

Well-Known Member
What I meant was that the maximum air it pulls is 380m3/h and the carbon scrubber max is actually 350-360m3/h not 425 (got that wrong). Didnt mean that those r the numbers they Need to pull. Before starting my grow I researched that a 350m3/h inline fan is the minimum for the tent I got, so 380 shud b enuf?
You want to be pulling as much hot air out of there as possible so you should be looking at the most powerful exhaust solution feasible for your situation. Your exhaust fan can be stronger than your carbon filter.

380 is close to the minimum, so hardly. With heat issues, you should be looking at the maximum.
 

Herb Man

Well-Known Member
Yes, so in a nut shell, you should really have a fan for exhaust.

A fan for your air cooled hood.

And an intake fan.

The first two being exhausted out of your building.
 

GreenthumbQC

Well-Known Member
Some guy said it already, don't vent your 600, (Its just 600...) And run a more efficient cooling scrubber ejection setup. No need to cool a 600 if you have proper ventilation.
 

GreenthumbQC

Well-Known Member
So following your logic idiot, a properly ventilated tent with a 400 may be too hot. What part of properly ventilated does your in-bred ass not get?
 

Herb Man

Well-Known Member
So following your logic idiot, a properly ventilated tent with a 400 may be too hot. What part of properly ventilated does your in-bred ass not get?
Lol, no need for insults, it shows lack of good breeding and poor upbringing.

Anyway back on topic, if the area, location where the tent is situated is already warm, all cooling measures one can employ can be invaluable.

Every degree counts.
 
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