Yellowing. Deficiency?

lordaddict

Member
My trainwreck and a few others have a yellowing throughout the leaves including new growth from how it looks to me.

Plant is 2 months old today.
Roots organic soil. Will post nute schedule in 2nd post from computer.

Under 600w hps. Still vegging 18/6.

Started from seed and my first grow.
Does she look like she is needing something?

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lordaddict

Member
They are in week 3 of nutes. And received 1/2 gallon each yesterday of nute water. I rotate giving them nutes and plain water each watering and generally water them every 2-3 days.

Water is from well and I pH it to 6.5.

Have not tested runoff as they do not produce much in such big pots.

They are in 7g Felt pots.

Week 1: (1ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (2.5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
Week 2: (1ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (1ml/gal), Hygrozyme, (3.5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
Week 3: (1.5ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (1ml/gal) Hygrozyme, (4.5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
Week 4: (1.5ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (1ml/gal) Hygrozyme, (5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
 
i know ur not suppose to give a plant alot of superthrive like 2 to 3 times max in veg i think the new growth yellowing i think is normal just not too much but it looks like a mag deficiency to me if u could find out the ph runoff that would help figure things out
hope i helped
 

Zomgshaman

Active Member
Looks like you need to up the nutes looks healthy other than the yellowing. Id agree with sourdiesel looks more towards a mag deficiency.
 

flower pharm

Well-Known Member
up the cal mag 2.5-3 ml per gal.every other water u should increase volume of water to get a good run off.i run into prob. later in flower w/build up in fabric of pot also try bottom feeding w/smart pots fill ur saucer 4-5 times also prevents buildup.
 

lordaddict

Member
best results w/superthrive 1 DROP per gal. no bs
Go for soil as well? and when do you cut your plant off completely from it?

up the cal mag 2.5-3 ml per gal.every other water u should increase volume of water to get a good run off.i run into prob. later in flower w/build up in fabric of pot also try bottom feeding w/smart pots fill ur saucer 4-5 times also prevents buildup.
I am going to try bumping up the cal-mag on next feed.
I'm not too familiar with bottom feeding in general, so I will look into this.

Thanks for the input as well as the other guys who've chimed in. :)
 

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
I would get a different nutrient . and problem solved . my opinion. I know about super thrive . I used it in the past not overly impressed .
 

flower pharm

Well-Known Member
I would get a different nutrient . and problem solved . my opinion. I know about super thrive . I used it in the past not overly impressed .
im not sure how changing nutes will fix anything.unless u address the def. and what exactly do you "know"about superthrive?ever used it at one drop per gal?
 

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
that is the problem . what is your drop is bigger then mine ? what kind of measurement is a drop ? what about a teaspoon. better guide to get an accurate amount of nutrients per gallon . I used to use full cap full per gallon . on the small bottle .
 

Squidbilly

Well-Known Member
Superthrive= 1tsp per 5gallons...this is the rate I hear from people who know. Be careful with that stuff, it has plant hormone in it. I use it when I first take clones OR sometimes I will use it if a plant looks a little behind or sickly-Not sure if it works or I'm just nursing clones and sick plants more then my vigorous ones and they end up rooting or eventually doing well. A few mentors have told me to only use it for when you first cut clones, transplants IF your running a strain that doesn't like them(I never had that problem), or a last 'try' for slow or sickly plants.

I don't think it's a cal/mag issue...looks like they are just plain hungry. Up their feed slowly, 50-100ppm a week. When the plants are hungry new growth looks slightly lighter than usual and color starts getting 'sucked' out throughout the plant. Nitrogen is usually first. Since N is a mobile nutrient, it will start sucking color FROM top to bottom, so the top half of your plant might look slightly more 'deficient' then the bottom half.

If it was mag you would have more even bleaching inbetween leaf veins, and if it was cal you would start to have burnt looking tips, splotchy leaves, maybe even dark spots starting on your leaves.

I think your plant may want a little more everything, looks like multiple deficiencies starting. Up their base nutrient. Much better to have hungry plants then burnt ones...

Of course, this is all in my humble opinion.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
Since N is a mobile nutrient, it will start sucking color FROM top to bottom, so the top half of your plant might look slightly more 'deficient' then the bottom half.
Squid, are you sure that's what you wanted to write? I borrowed this from Michigan State University Extension:

"Once inside plants, nutrients are transported to where they are needed, typically to growing points. Once incorporated by the plant, some elements can be immobile while others can be remobilized. Immobile elements essentially get locked in place and that is where they stay. Those that can be remobilized can leave their original location and move to areas of greater demand. Knowing which are mobile or immobile is helpful in diagnosing deficiency symptoms.

Since immobile elements do not easily move within the plant, when deficiency symptoms occur they show up in new growth (Photo 1). When mobile elements become limiting, they can be scavenged from older growth and moved to where they are most needed, causing deficiency symptoms in older growth
"

As you said, N is mobile, but that means the plant can take it from old leaves and move it to the new growth. Mobile goes up. AFAIK a mobile element never goes down, because a plant will always prioritize new growth over old.

I'm pretty sure you understand mobility, I just wanted to point it out so someone doesn't get confused.
 
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