What deficiency do these UC DWC girls have?

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I'm right. :)

People here are afraid to feed their plants and end up starving them. 835ppm won't come close to burning your plants. I've run plants in DWC over 1600 and only then do leaves start to become hard and brittle.

If you have a tds meter and you're growing DWC, it's near impossible to accidentally overshoot what you intended to put in. (like it is with something like soil)

Was just told on my other post to have ppm between 400-600. Which is right and why?
 

caligreen420

Well-Known Member
Update on the Ladies!
Two Angles for Each Lady
White WIdow Lady #1
1.jpeg 1a.jpeg
White WIdow Lady #2
2.jpeg 2a.jpeg
White WIdow Lady #3
3.jpeg 3a.jpeg
White Widow Lady #4
4.jpeg 4a.jpeg


How they looking to you folks?
 

808Pez

Member
Was just told on my other post to have ppm between 400-600. Which is right and why?
Your ppms can be as high as your plants can handle. I would some get ph up and down some cal/mag carbo load and silicon on top of a good N and P Fertilizer . Up your ppms 200 at a time to test your plants. And idealy the room should be at 70F. Hope this helps
 

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
Those are clearly clones (asymmetrical growth) and I would not be hitting them at 800ppm yet, myself. I'd have them around 500 at that stage. They do look like they are having slight deficiencies though. Since you just did a rez change, I would add your grow formula along with CalMag as suggested and lower the Ph to 5.5 - 5.6 (adding the nutes alone may bring the Ph to this level or lower). I gently "wave" my Ph from 5.4 - 6.0 in an up and down pattern, from one week to the next or so, to cover the range of acceptable uptake. Are you starting with RO water?
 
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caligreen420

Well-Known Member
Your ppms can be as high as your plants can handle. I would some get ph up and down some cal/mag carbo load and silicon on top of a good N and P Fertilizer . Up your ppms 200 at a time to test your plants. And idealy the room should be at 70F. Hope this helps
Carbo load and silicon. What do these do?
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
They don't look burned at all. A little on the lightish green side.

Honestly, I wonder if a lot of these people have ever tried raising their ppm over 600 before. I remember when everyone used over 1000ppm in DWC. Now the advice here is to give seedlings 0-200ppm, which imo is absurd. It's a bit overcautious imo, and really takes away from potential in the early stages, as people purposefully wait for yellowing and slow growth to finally provide nutrients.

The only real reason, in my opinion, to start seedlings off at a lower concentration (in hydro) is to prevent accidents where water evaporates from the medium and causes salt buildups. This can't happen once the roots touch the water in DWC. The ppm of the reservoir is too stable.
 

caligreen420

Well-Known Member
They don't look burned at all. A little on the lightish green side.

Honestly, I wonder if a lot of these people have ever tried raising their ppm over 600 before. I remember when everyone used over 1000ppm in DWC. Now the advice here is to give seedlings 0-200ppm, which imo is absurd. It's a bit overcautious imo, and really takes away from potential in the early stages, as people purposefully wait for yellowing and slow growth to finally provide nutrients.

The only real reason, in my opinion, to start seedlings off at a lower concentration (in hydro) is to prevent accidents where water evaporates from the medium and causes salt buildups. This can't happen once the roots touch the water in DWC. The ppm of the reservoir is too stable.
Roots are not looking stoked bruddah, any advice?
 

Dunbar Santiago

Well-Known Member
Change your water and clean everything for now. You can spray the roots with water and a little peroxide in a spray bottle to get any junk off. You can either invest in some dutch master zone and keep everything sterile, or you can use beneficial bacteria such as hydroguard or ogbiowar that kills off bad bacteria and fungus. http://ogbiowar.com/product/root-pack/ (discount code farmer)
I prefer the biological route, bacteria last longer than zone. You just can't use any zone or peroxide with the beneficial bacteria. You still want to clean those roots up and wash any buckets, pumps, airstones and such.
 

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
^^^ Good suggestions. Rinsing roots with Clearex is good (and it's reasonably priced), plus AquaShield is cheaper than Hydroguard and is a more organic alternative to the latter.
 

caligreen420

Well-Known Member
Change your water and clean everything for now. You can spray the roots with water and a little peroxide in a spray bottle to get any junk off. You can either invest in some dutch master zone and keep everything sterile, or you can use beneficial bacteria such as hydroguard or ogbiowar that kills off bad bacteria and fungus. http://ogbiowar.com/product/root-pack/ (discount code farmer)
I prefer the biological route, bacteria last longer than zone. You just can't use any zone or peroxide with the beneficial bacteria. You still want to clean those roots up and wash any buckets, pumps, airstones and such.
^^^ Good suggestions. Rinsing roots with Clearex is good (and it's reasonably priced), plus AquaShield is cheaper than Hydroguard and is a more organic alternative to the latter.
Aloha all,
Put into hydroton today, roots looked pretty decent except of the first one where the long ones were a little dirty, but that may have been from my partners ebb n flow table that gets grimy. Bought a gallon of aquashield today, added to rez, hope all is well. Will update with some pictures soon.
1.JPG1a.JPG
White Widow Female #1
2.JPG 2a.JPG
White Widow Female #2
3.JPG 3a.JPG
White Widow Female #3
4.JPG 4a.JPG
White Widow Female #4

Sorry that the HPS is on, do not have time for a more in depth photo shoot.
 

caligreen420

Well-Known Member
They don't look burned at all. A little on the lightish green side.

Honestly, I wonder if a lot of these people have ever tried raising their ppm over 600 before. I remember when everyone used over 1000ppm in DWC. Now the advice here is to give seedlings 0-200ppm, which imo is absurd. It's a bit overcautious imo, and really takes away from potential in the early stages, as people purposefully wait for yellowing and slow growth to finally provide nutrients.

The only real reason, in my opinion, to start seedlings off at a lower concentration (in hydro) is to prevent accidents where water evaporates from the medium and causes salt buildups. This can't happen once the roots touch the water in DWC. The ppm of the reservoir is too stable.
Just changed some things, what do you think?
 

Dunbar Santiago

Well-Known Member
^^^ Good suggestions. Rinsing roots with Clearex is good (and it's reasonably priced), plus AquaShield is cheaper than Hydroguard and is a more organic alternative to the latter.
Aquashield has been discontinued and replaced with a reformulated hydroguard with stonger and more aggressive bacteria.. And I can't see how aquashield was more organic. They're both about as organic as you can get.
And caligreen, I should have mentioned that when you transplant into buckets, try to weave the roots through so most of them are hanging in the water. Having the water level too high will cause problems. It's better to have a little space between the surface of the water and your lid. And don't be afraid to use more than they suggest on the aquashield bottle.
 
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caligreen420

Well-Known Member
Aquashield has been discontinued and replaced with a reformulated hydroguard with stonger and more aggressive bacteria.. And I can't see how aquashield was more organic. They're both about as organic as you can get.
And caligreen, I should have mentioned that when you transplant into buckets, try to weave the roots through so most of them are hanging in the water. Having the water level too high will cause problems. It's better to have a little space between the surface of the water and your lid. And don't be afraid to use more than they suggest on the aquashield bottle.
Aloha!

Added a good amount of AquaShield, rez seemed to respond well, smells really clean now. Will old growth start greening up with the changes or will all positive changes only be seen in new growth? One love.
 
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