Need help with 1200w ebb&flow buckets veg

[bigbudheadshrimp]

What is your experience level? Third grow.

What type of hydro set-up are you running? Ebb and flow buckets.

Your Equipment:
A) Type and wattage of lights? Two 600w MH.
B) Distance from tops? 20 inches.
C) Reflector type? Vertical bare bulbs.
D) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, andschedule? Two 600w, 6500K and 4700K, on 24 hours a day.
E) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? Sealed room.
F) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? Circulation fans.
G) Size of reservoir? 30 Gallons.
H) What medium if applicable? Hydrocorn.

Your nutrients and water:
I) If using rockwool for clones or seedlings, did you rinse the cubes well, with properly ph'd water? No rockwool.
J) Source of water? What's it's ph? RO filtered. 5.5-6.2 pH.
K) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages and current feeding schedule? DutchMaster Gold Range Zone, 0-0-0, 2 mL per gallon. General Hydroponics CaliMagic, 1-0-0, 2 mL per gallon. General Hydroponics MaxiBloom, 5-15-14, ¼ Teaspoon per gallon. Flood every 4 hours.
L) What is the ec/ppm of your unadjusted tap (or filtered) water? 0.06 EC.
M) What is the ec/ppm of your nutrient solution? 0.74 EC.
N) What is the temperature of your nutrient solution? 69-74 °F.
O) Does your ec/ppm show a rise or fall when you do your daily PPM check? No daily rise or fall.
P) Does the ph fluctuate? Rises about .2 pH daily.
Q) Do you foliar feed? No.
R) How often do you replace reservoir water/nutes? What does it look like before changes? Weekly. Clear.

Your growroom:
S) What size of closet, room or hut? 3'x8' room.
T) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? With lights off? 69-75 °F, 44-55 RH.
U) Have you seen signs of insects in the grow room? No.
V) Are the roots long and white, or brown and slimy? Long, white/tan, not slimy.

Your strain:
W) What strain are you growing? Headband/Sour Kush, Chemdog D, Larry OG x Pre-98 Bubba.
X) From seeds or clones? Clones.
Y) Is this an autoflower strain? No.

All pictures taken with DSLR and proper white balance:

 

[bird mcbride]

You must have run the res too hot. 65-70F

 

[bigbudheadshrimp]

You must have run the res too hot. 65-70F

Why do you say that? I've always thought 75 °F was fine for an ebb&flow system since the roots aren't always submerged in a nutrient solution like in a DWC system.

 

[bird mcbride]

From what I understand is that microbial activity starts to accelerate when the res gets over 70F. This causes an increase of one essential nutrient in the res, resulting in a lockout of other nutrients.

 

[bigbudheadshrimp]

From what I understand is that microbial activity starts to accelerate when the res gets over 70F. This causes an increase of one essential nutrient in the res, resulting in a lockout of other nutrients.

I see, but wouldn't changing out the reservoir weekly solve that issue?

 

[bird mcbride]

I would recommend that you find some way to get the res temp down a tad and swap out the res every 7-4 days depending on the growth. When they get bigger they'll suck up the res faster so even though you're topping up it is recommended that the res be swapt out more frequently. You can start the res at 60F if you like.

 

[SnapsProvolone]

How long is your 4 hour flood? Just long enough to get to depth?

You feeding enough potassium?

Run pH 5.8 (set to 5.7 and let drift to 5.9)

 

[bigbudheadshrimp]

How long is your 4 hour flood? Just long enough to get to depth?

You feeding enough potassium?

Run pH 5.8 (set to 5.7 and let drift to 5.9)

The flood is 15 minutes long. It gets to depth and stays there for a few minutes. The plants were rooted using an EZ Cloner and transplanted directly into the hydrocorn, no rockwool. So my sweep of 5.5-6.2 pH is too great? Enough potassium? I don't know. I'm only using Zone, CaliMagic, and MaxiBloom. Nothing else.

 

[Dr. Who]

Your P&K is to high a ratio, to early into flower. Some of your plants are expressing high P&K. You might consider dropping the Maxi for now and shifting to a better balanced Bloom nute. Hesi, Dynagro something like those with the NPK at those levels. The Maxi at like week 5-6 of flower is more prudent.
Hold your pH to swing in the 5.8 to 6.2 range!.....Most say it should be 5.8. But I find that just about 6.0 works very well....Lower pH is worse then higher in relation to problems caused.....so no lower then 5.7. Your in hydro,,,,pH every day at lights on and adjust from there. "Get Down" pH down is the most effective and lasting pH down I've ever used! It's from Mad Farmer and has NO dye's and is formulated with 2 acid's and you will use 1/2 of that to do what you did before with any other brand! Lasts longer and is more stable too.
Crank up the CALiMAGic to 5ml per gallon.
Get those res temps down to below 70 and 70 should be your all time high temp LIMIT! Bird is correct on that!

 

[bigbudheadshrimp]

Dr. Who I am 17 days in veg and still vegging. I already use Mad Farmer Get Down. I am constantly adjusting EC and pH, I use a BlueLab Guardian and check it many times a day.

 

[Dr. Who]

Then the maxi IS the problem on the yellowing! P&K is to high!
You NEED to switch to a VEG nutrient......NO added (supplemental) P&K till week 3-4 of flower and the Maxi is to high for that time also. Say maybe week 5 or 6 for that. Some strains are far less sensitive to high P&K. You can see that in your pics.
The upping of the CALiMAGic to 5ml per gallon WILL help stabilize the pH swings to more manageable levels and that will help out the P&K problems also.
Mad Farmer = NICE

 

[bigbudheadshrimp]

Makes sense Dr. Who. How do all of the Lucas users have success with MaxiBloom only? Would MaxiGrow be ok?

 

[Dr. Who]

The Maxi grow is better. The N is a tic high for me but the P is in line. I find the K value as a tic high too, but with prudent use it should work out ok! The high K will add some tric's and possibly have the plant express some purple or red - redish brown if the plant has the ability to "color" in it's strain.
I suggest using it a lower then suggested rate....Like start out at 75% and increase if need be. (It's easier to add then take away after damage has been done.)
Use a good foliar to supplement the N until you change the nutrient.
I've run hydro and still do some DWC for shits and giggles during the winter months....I don't care for the Lucas formula, but that's just my opinion because it does work.
I run the 33% add back method. It works for me just great!
That works like this. Finding the concentrations of the nutrient ratio for the strain running is sometimes less then the given value from the maker.....You have to figure that out! I prefer Hesi for hydro brand for my grows. NO urea based formula's!
Mix your nutrient at your 100% level and fill your res. As you have to add back to keep your res full. Add back a 33% nutrient solution till the res is "full". ( make 1 gallon of 100% solution and add 2 more gallons of straight pH'ed water and you have a 33% solution).
Keep adding back at 33% UNTILL you have reached the TOTAL amount of solution in a full res. At this point dump the res and refill with 100% solution and repeat the process.

Good luck.