SnapsProvolone
Well-Known Member
I agree with Spek9. I do however wonder if your bathroom is sharing a circuit with your kitchen counter based on what you stated about your panel labeling. It would be a 20 amp though at least...
Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
Yeah, ill be checking sometime tomorrow morning, the wall socket I have in my bathroom has a little red and black reset switch on it. I have no idea what it's for. All that said, I found out my AC unit is using 5.6 amps. (6,400 btu) (600 watts), however I don't run the AC, just the fan mode on low, so im guessing it wouldn't be using the full 5.6 amps? My PSU on my PC is 500, dunno what my 19 inch monitor is using. If I do hook up my grow tent with fans, inline fan, 400 watt ill be pushing it.. :S
SnapsProvolone
Well-Known Member
The bathroom receptacle is a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter designed to shut off power if any current makes it's way to earth (really just watches the neutral / hot for any difference). By code these are required in the bathroom due to water hazards. They are sometimes the cause or at least partially to blame for a phenomenon called "nuisance trips" where it trips for no obvious reason. In this case, after eliminating faulty equipment wiring, one should consider swapping the old receptacle for a new gfci receptacle (cooper is best quality imo, avoid cheap chinese) be sure to get the 20 amp gfcI not a 15 amp since your on a 20 amp feed.
SnapsProvolone
Well-Known Member
Count on AC pulling full power intermittently.
neonknight420
Well-Known Member
Can someone tell me on swichable hps/mh ballast do both lights run off the same capacitor, or they seperate caps for each.
SnapsProvolone
Well-Known Member
Same cap, just adds the igniter for hps mode.
R.C. COLA
Member
I was wondering if you know where I can find any diy sites or instruction on making a complete relay/contactor panels. I am waiting on my Agrowtek pro-xl hydo. Not sure if your familiar with agrowtek and there newest model of controller. So it is the mother of automation controllers. It is capable of controlling three individual grow area. ie 2 flower rooms, 1 veg. or any combination of rooms. it also can control automate 2 individaul hydroponic systems PH/EC temp and is capable of at least 8 dosing pumps per hydro sensor.
My order is the GC-Pro-XL hydro with one climate sensor that includes co2, a second sensor that is climate only no co2, and 2 hydo sensor each capable of PH/EC/TEMP and 4 dosing pumps each. so I have a spare expansion slot that can be upgraded in the field at anytime. so when I am able to add a 3rd room to be automated I just order an other climate sensor and plug it in. This setup hurt the bank but it what I always wanted so I got it.
It comes with 16 outputs and I included an option to add 8 more outputs. So total of 24 24vdc outputs. Agrowtek makes and sells there own relay panels either come plug in play with outlets built in, or to be hardwired. the have different size panels some that have individual relay per outlet for individual equipment to be automated by the controllers outputs, and they make contactor panels that also come in diffrent sizes to power on banks of equipment such as lights and fans. The problem is that after ordering all the other gear I could not afford the extra to buy there pre-made panels. They offer a solid 90day try it dont like it get your money back, and a 3 year fix it or replace it warranty. They where clear they would not back these offers if I only bought the controller and sensors and not there panels. They do offer a 12 output relay dry contact panel that is a fraction of the price that I can use to connect there controller to a custom panel of my choice. So I order to of the RD-12 panel each has 12 low voltage dry contact relays. one for each room being controlled.
I would like to build my own panels that would be wired into the dry contacts of the rd-12 panel. I would like to build panel with relays that feature independently operated outlets or output to be hardwired, and also have the panel include or build individual panel that include contactors that switch all outlets on at the same time to operate banks of lights, fans, etc. I will need to have either one giant panel or two smaller panels that can be placed down line of the dry contact switches that will control each room.
I have learned alot in the past 7 years and feel confident that I could follow detailed instructions and make my own panels to hardwire/plug my equipment into. I hope I was clear enough about what it is I am trying to build.
Agrowtek GC-Pro-XL link
http://agrowtek.com/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,flypage.tpl/product_id,77/category_id,14/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,26/
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Peace
R.C.
My order is the GC-Pro-XL hydro with one climate sensor that includes co2, a second sensor that is climate only no co2, and 2 hydo sensor each capable of PH/EC/TEMP and 4 dosing pumps each. so I have a spare expansion slot that can be upgraded in the field at anytime. so when I am able to add a 3rd room to be automated I just order an other climate sensor and plug it in. This setup hurt the bank but it what I always wanted so I got it.
It comes with 16 outputs and I included an option to add 8 more outputs. So total of 24 24vdc outputs. Agrowtek makes and sells there own relay panels either come plug in play with outlets built in, or to be hardwired. the have different size panels some that have individual relay per outlet for individual equipment to be automated by the controllers outputs, and they make contactor panels that also come in diffrent sizes to power on banks of equipment such as lights and fans. The problem is that after ordering all the other gear I could not afford the extra to buy there pre-made panels. They offer a solid 90day try it dont like it get your money back, and a 3 year fix it or replace it warranty. They where clear they would not back these offers if I only bought the controller and sensors and not there panels. They do offer a 12 output relay dry contact panel that is a fraction of the price that I can use to connect there controller to a custom panel of my choice. So I order to of the RD-12 panel each has 12 low voltage dry contact relays. one for each room being controlled.
I would like to build my own panels that would be wired into the dry contacts of the rd-12 panel. I would like to build panel with relays that feature independently operated outlets or output to be hardwired, and also have the panel include or build individual panel that include contactors that switch all outlets on at the same time to operate banks of lights, fans, etc. I will need to have either one giant panel or two smaller panels that can be placed down line of the dry contact switches that will control each room.
I have learned alot in the past 7 years and feel confident that I could follow detailed instructions and make my own panels to hardwire/plug my equipment into. I hope I was clear enough about what it is I am trying to build.
Agrowtek GC-Pro-XL link
http://agrowtek.com/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,flypage.tpl/product_id,77/category_id,14/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,26/
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Peace
R.C.
SnapsProvolone
Well-Known Member
Seems like a nice system. Seeing that you have a lot invested already, you should really consider not voiding your warranty by using unapproved equipment. That said, shoot us your schematic and we will scrutinize it for you.
Total.Hydroponic.Control
Active Member
Here is a screen grab from the agrowtek website regarding installation.
From this image we can determine that the outputs are PNP 24VDC.
You'll also notice that they have included ampacity limits for the outputs. 500mA per channel.
This means that you could use the outputs of this controller to "drive" any contactor/relay of your choosing, with the only stipulation that the contactor/relay can draw a maximum of 500mA. Most contactors will fall beneath this range. Relays certainly will. 24VDC is a nominal voltage in industrial control. Relays/contactors will be readily available.
Size your contactors to your largest load, or determine the ampacity of each load individually and determine the best relay/contactor option.
Below is a load center that I built recently. As you can see, the outlets have been mounted to the face of the enclosure, and they are being fed through relays and contactors within the enclosure. These relays/contactors are also driven with 24VDC, by a programmable logic controller in a separate enclosure, interfaced to the load center via a multi-conductor cable (Similar to the multicolor wiring diagram provided by agrowtek).
Share exactly how many outputs you'd like to utilize.
Specify the wattage, or current draw of each load connected to be controlled by those outputs.
Example,
output 1.) (3) 600 Watt, 240 Volt Ballasts
output 2.) One 200 Watt, 120 Volt Pump
Note: More than one load can be controlled by each output, but if several contactors are needed for a single output, other interface considerations will be needed.
I'll draw you a schematic, and then tell you how much it can be built for.
R.C. COLA
Member
Thank T.H.C. I sent a p.m but am unsure if you got it, please let me know if you did not and I will try again. Thank you for being helpful. I offer as much help I feel I can when it is about something I know. I am always amazed how much knowledge is out there not being shared. I find it hard to believe there is anything pertaining to indoor growing that someone does not have some insight on, and how many questions go on answered. Thanks again.
R.C. COLA
Member
Me again. Maybe someone can explain to me how or if I can use a Duplex 20 amp breaker to run a 240amp circuit. I have a Eaton BR2020 breaker. I thought I could use this to run my line for my spot cooler. I hate to use two slots in my sub panel for only one device. If the bar handles are not tied together then it will not trip correctly correct? any help will be great!
The Eaton BR2020 breaker is a tandem style circuit breaker consisting of two single pole breakers sharing the same slot, and thus are sharing the same pole. These breakers can only be use for 120 volts branch circuits. A double pole circuit breaker occupy two slots in your circuit breaker panel, and thus are on two poles, is required for a 240 volts circuit.
R.C. COLA
Member
Thanks sometimes it takes hearing, or reading it to have it make since. I was mostly confused since it was picked out by the electric supply store I use and I bought it along with a twistlock 20 amp outlet. So some more questions I have a panel wired to a 20 amp double pole 240volt breaker. The plugs are not the 6-20 type but rather 6-15 straight blade only plugs. Since I do not have the right breaker to setup a dedicated circuit right now, I was wondering if it is possible to wire a cord with a 6-15 plug with a L6-20 twist outlet to power my device from that panel. I do not have anything running at this time. I am just trying to make sure everything works. If I can at least test it out before going back to town to pick up a new double pole 20amp breaker. Hate to do all this extra running around just to find out that something is wrong with it. So can a 6-15 outlet handle the extra couple amps or will it burn out. The spot cooler it will run is rated at 12.3 cooling amps, 2200 watts, 79 in rush amps, calls for a dedicated 20amp breaker, and a 6-20 plug, it came to me with the L6-20 twist lock. What do you think will I be able to test it out using the 6-15plug?
MotherNaturesGift67
New Member
Ok Brick you are just the person im looking for.. i hate the feeling of leaving to work and thinking something my spark and start a fire! So ive tried to disperse all the wiring through out the room.. like this Two ufo LED 135 watts and two 75 watt into one outlet.. then the carbon filfer into another outlet.. and a Exhaust fan in another outlet.. my other concern is my houss is a little in the older side so i dont know if i should maybe change the outlet to newer stonger ones like GFI's? Thanks for any advice
mountain dweller
Well-Known Member
Ok I have a set-up question.
I have an empty 40 amp 220 spot in my panel that was hooked to a stove I have since replaced with gas so I have tha breaker open and I can rewire it to go to my grow but I need to know the best way to go about it.
I want to run at least 4 but max 6, 1000 watt lights on that breaker (20-30 amps) but aside from what size wire to run I'm lost on the best setup as faras what type outlets and how to wire them to run four to six lights on one breaker. And if 6 is pushing that circuit I have plenty of room for more breakers but right now my plan is four. Any help would be appreciated
I have an empty 40 amp 220 spot in my panel that was hooked to a stove I have since replaced with gas so I have tha breaker open and I can rewire it to go to my grow but I need to know the best way to go about it.
I want to run at least 4 but max 6, 1000 watt lights on that breaker (20-30 amps) but aside from what size wire to run I'm lost on the best setup as faras what type outlets and how to wire them to run four to six lights on one breaker. And if 6 is pushing that circuit I have plenty of room for more breakers but right now my plan is four. Any help would be appreciated
ScoobyDoobyDoo
Well-Known Member
it would be some added security but with that low of an electrical draw i wouldn't worry too much. at most you are pulling 6 amps and even old circuits can handle that.
ScoobyDoobyDoo
Well-Known Member
the easiest way would be to hardwire that breaker directly to a light controller. they are a little pricey but well worth it. works just like a sub-panel with outlets all in one. most require that you run your ballasts at 220v but there are some that run 110v; some have both. some even have built in timers. just get one large enough to fit everything you need. i use a powerbox one that has a built in digital timer, prevents hot starts, will delay firing of bulbs at startup, and even has a meter that reads your electrical draw. that's a little on the fancy side but it's great. all my lights are on the 220v outlets and my fans are on the 110v. they all run on the same timer. you can even get ones that have dual trigger cords. means you can control different banks of outlets on different timers.
if you wanna size up the outlet you can even swap out that 40amp for a 50 or 60amp. if you are gonna run 6 lights in the future it would be worth it.
mountain dweller
Well-Known Member
cool,sounds like the set-up I need what does the one you have run? I was looking at the Helios 7,says it runs 8 lights at 240 but its rated 40 amps? 8 x 5amps = 40 but you wouldnt want to max it out like that right? If I got that would I want to upgrade to a 50 or 60 amp breaker or would it need to stay at 40?
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Controls-702676-Controller-240-volt/dp/B004JKBIHQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389233522&sr=8-2&keywords=grow+light+controller