Yellow/brown leaves dying of quickly (flowering stage)
- Thread starter Eljefe23
- Start date
Rurumo
Well-Known Member
Hmmm, I'm thinking the PPMs might have built up super high in your soil and you're seeing some K lockout. Hard to say. Do you have a TDS/EC meter by any chance? If that is the issue, then you might need to flush the soil a bit next time you need to water. I'd hold off on more fertilizer until you figure it out.
Boatguy
Well-Known Member
They all dont like the same thing. Try backing off on the feed a bit on that one.
GroBud
Well-Known Member
You can have 4 of the same strain doing the same thing and one will be a jackass. 6.3 is the lowest ph you would want to give growing in soil. See chart, when I used liquid nutrients I would fluctuate between 6.3 and 7.0 giving 6.5 and 6.7 as well. you don't want to be using grow big in flower that's veg nutrient higher in nitrogen and lower in phosphorus and potassium that you need. I also stop calmag week 3 flower. Probably as mentioned fed too much using the grow big. Big bloom and tiger bloom only if you want more flowering nutrients look into open sesame, beastie blooms, and cha ching. Probably a good idea to get a run off ppm and ph reading to make sure everything is in line. As mentioned give plain water until issue subsides. What's effected will get worse just watch for a continuation of spread. If it keeps spreading or if ppms are outrageously high you'll want to flush with 3xs the amount of water you normally use and reset soil. Give plain water a time or two after flush then continue feeding flowering nutrients. If you're following the fox farms feeding schedule you have to follow it to a T down to flushing when recommended with sledge hammer. The recommended amounts are too much next grow start with 1/4 the recommended amount, watch plants reaction before increasing. Plants will always let you know if they liked what you did or not.
You can also check soil ph with a slurry test. Also ppm chart is using r/o water with a base ppm of 0.
You can also check soil ph with a slurry test. Also ppm chart is using r/o water with a base ppm of 0.
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GroBud
Well-Known Member
I'd flush between 6.5 and 6.7 that's where I hang out every now and again I'll drop to 6.3 or above 6.7 mostly due to not feeling like messing with ph up and down anymore. Hang out around 6.5-6.7 for everything and it'll be fine. Liquid nutrients are readily available if they or the soils ph doesn't match that chart then the plant may not be able to uptake nutrients correctly as needed. As shown both calcium and magnesium are both hurting at 6.3
Growing in fox farms it is fine not phing water but only until the organic material has been depleted once you run of out slow release organic matter and have to start using liquid nutrients you must ph to keep soil ph correct. Using liquid nutrients you don't feed the microorganisms that automatically phed the soil and fed the plants. I used the dirty dozen in happy frog and ocean forest now I use dry amendments in happy frog and ocean forest.
Ocean forest can show a calcium or magnesium deficiency around month but will feed around 6 weeks. If you water until run off that timeline will be shorter if you let the soil go completely dry that can also effect nutrient uptake, while still using the organic slow release to feed. Liquid nutrients it doesn't matter so much, you actually want a 20% runoff to aid in preventing nutrient and salt build up.
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Boatguy
Well-Known Member
Ph of your water shouldnt matter or be an issue if thats the case.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
No need to “ flush “ FFOF … Leaching the soil incrementally thru just simple watering BETWEEN feeds allows high feed concentrations
to be “ diluted ” without heavy handed flush. I believe the fox farm feeding you have done just compounded issue. I used to use that god damn trio before ( way too easy to overuse - highly concentrated ). Plus the fact it salts shit up fast …. Ruined a few fabric pots .
Gro big is a very concentrated mix … even by feed schedule. Their feed schedule runs assorted bottles ( many unnecessary) and mixes more than necessary. Most will go no more than 1/2 ( even a 1/4 of what’s listed ). Gro big is a heavy nitro nute , put it this way , got one of those lawn sprayers that hooks up to water hose , added Gro big for shits and giggles and “ fertilized “ lawn with it. Actually my remainder bottle went to lawn instead of my grow.
Big Bloom is the only one organic out of trio. It cannot feed alone , but feeds microbiology in medium well. Name tends to confuse growers on use.
Tiger Bloom is the actual BLOOM nute , also concentrated- less is more.
BELIEVE IT OR NOT , you can run a top dress of FFOF alone to handle feeding at this stage by just watering that in.
Kelp added to water bumps the flowering . It looks like your feed with all the bottles is a bit much.
Note that over use of nitro during flower can impact flower formation …. Plant will not need an over the top amount of nitro in flower ( some is still used for pigmentation and cell health ) but it will not be making any more branches and leaf as it concentrates on blooming.
A little trick when using TAP with FFOF …. Ph the water near what FFOF is ( FFOF is 6.3 lower end of good uptake ) range it to 6.5 / 6.7
will allow for Ph drift and buffers not being able to control. Ph near medium will allow buffers more breathing room in case soil changes .
to be “ diluted ” without heavy handed flush. I believe the fox farm feeding you have done just compounded issue. I used to use that god damn trio before ( way too easy to overuse - highly concentrated ). Plus the fact it salts shit up fast …. Ruined a few fabric pots .
Gro big is a very concentrated mix … even by feed schedule. Their feed schedule runs assorted bottles ( many unnecessary) and mixes more than necessary. Most will go no more than 1/2 ( even a 1/4 of what’s listed ). Gro big is a heavy nitro nute , put it this way , got one of those lawn sprayers that hooks up to water hose , added Gro big for shits and giggles and “ fertilized “ lawn with it. Actually my remainder bottle went to lawn instead of my grow.
Big Bloom is the only one organic out of trio. It cannot feed alone , but feeds microbiology in medium well. Name tends to confuse growers on use.
Tiger Bloom is the actual BLOOM nute , also concentrated- less is more.
BELIEVE IT OR NOT , you can run a top dress of FFOF alone to handle feeding at this stage by just watering that in.
Kelp added to water bumps the flowering . It looks like your feed with all the bottles is a bit much.
Note that over use of nitro during flower can impact flower formation …. Plant will not need an over the top amount of nitro in flower ( some is still used for pigmentation and cell health ) but it will not be making any more branches and leaf as it concentrates on blooming.
A little trick when using TAP with FFOF …. Ph the water near what FFOF is ( FFOF is 6.3 lower end of good uptake ) range it to 6.5 / 6.7
will allow for Ph drift and buffers not being able to control. Ph near medium will allow buffers more breathing room in case soil changes .
Boatguy
Well-Known Member
@Budzbuddha Answered that question. The soil buffers the ph of the liquid added, to an extent.
Read his link in his siggy, ffof.