Vero29's @ 25watts in parallel grow

nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I had bought 4 200 watt outdoor floodlights that were bridgelux dies in COB form @ 200 watts. They used meanwell cen-100-36 for 2 COB's. I finally bought 10 Vero 29's to replace the older COB's and widen where they were mounted to the heat sink. The drivers are moved from inside the case to the outside and the reflector cut up to fit the new position. No it's not the prettiest light out there, but all the wiring is soldered and double heat shrinked all connections. One light will not get touched because it is an excellent outdoor light or work light. 2 of the lights I decided to go for efficiency (up to 165lm/watt) running @ 25 watts X four Vero's. Since I can't count, I only had 2 COBs for the last heat sink. So, I crammed 4 of the older COBs in the center @ 25 watts each on one driver and have the 2 Veros on the other driver @ 50 watts each. One of the 100 watt fixtures will be over 2 green cracks netted out to about 18" X 40". The other lights will be over a few Critical Mass.




 
SaltyNuts

SaltyNuts

Well-Known Member
@nevergoodenuf can you link to the floodlights you bought?

nevergoodenuf said:
I had bought 4 200 watt outdoor floodlights that were bridgelux dies in COB form @ 200 watts. They used meanwell cen-100-36 for 2 COB's. I finally bought 10 Vero 29's to replace the older COB's and widen where they were mounted to the heat sink. The drivers are moved from inside the case to the outside and the reflector cut up to fit the new position. No it's not the prettiest light out there, but all the wiring is soldered and double heat shrinked all connections. One light will not get touched because it is an excellent outdoor light or work light. 2 of the lights I decided to go for efficiency (up to 165lm/watt) running @ 25 watts X four Vero's. Since I can't count, I only had 2 COBs for the last heat sink. So, I crammed 4 of the older COBs in the center @ 25 watts each on one driver and have the 2 Veros on the other driver @ 50 watts each. One of the 100 watt fixtures will be over 2 green cracks netted out to about 18" X 40". The other lights will be over a few Critical Mass.




Click to expand...
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
The lights came from Semlights, one of the better Chinese light companies that I talked with. They were willing to make how I wanted (3000k, 4000k, and 6000k). I did take the light to Bridgelux, up the road, to verify that they were real Bridgelux dies. They have been working great for over a year. But now that they have been completely taken apart, I have issues with a few things. There was still burrs where the chip screws to the aluminum, so they had too thick of a layer TIM paste ( including no prep under the chip), and the super cheap wire nuts. One came loose on shipping and the other came loose just enough to melt the wire nut. I only have one of four that hasn't and won't be opened or changed, yet. It is still a great camping or work light. The light is 4 x 50 watts. I should e-mail them to see if the will sell me just the case. The light itself isn't worth it, unless I can talk them into using Vero 29s. My light with a lux meter is 20% to 30% brighter than the older Bridgelux dies.



I just wish I had gotten a good run with the old chips. I have ran into almost every problem this past year. Now I have a mini split, dehumidifier (had bad humidity issues), CO2 bottle with ppm controller, Blue Lab PH and PPM (2 bad ph pens and 1 bad trucheon). That Green Crack is one hardy plant. She still produce .58 grams/watt drinking 2000+ppm food.
 
CanadianONE

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
nevergoodenuf said:
The lights came from Semlights, one of the better Chinese light companies that I talked with. They were willing to make how I wanted (3000k, 4000k, and 6000k). I did take the light to Bridgelux, up the road, to verify that they were real Bridgelux dies. They have been working great for over a year. But now that they have been completely taken apart, I have issues with a few things. There was still burrs where the chip screws to the aluminum, so they had too thick of a layer TIM paste ( including no prep under the chip), and the super cheap wire nuts. One came loose on shipping and the other came loose just enough to melt the wire nut. I only have one of four that hasn't and won't be opened or changed, yet. It is still a great camping or work light. The light is 4 x 50 watts. I should e-mail them to see if the will sell me just the case. The light itself isn't worth it, unless I can talk them into using Vero 29s. My light with a lux meter is 20% to 30% brighter than the older Bridgelux dies.



I just wish I had gotten a good run with the old chips. I have ran into almost every problem this past year. Now I have a mini split, dehumidifier (had bad humidity issues), CO2 bottle with ppm controller, Blue Lab PH and PPM (2 bad ph pens and 1 bad trucheon). That Green Crack is one hardy plant. She still produce .58 grams/watt drinking 2000+ppm food.
Click to expand...
How well did the case/heatsink cool the lights? I like that design also.
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
They have always worked great. They get warm, but never get hot. The heat sink is nice because it has 2 T slots for mounting brackets. I just wish it was a little longer, but just right for a 100 watt fixture. The next lights I build will be on a 42" heat sink @ 200 watts. Maybe 5 Vero 29s.
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I had some time to do a chart on my light, but it is in LUX. This is the only meter I have at the moment. The measurements are only of one quarter of the light at both 1 foot and 2 foot. There is a couple of add measurements at the edge. They are only at 1 foot because the light was so low. Width way is measure at 5" and 10". Looking at the numbers I will make my net 20"x42" and keep the light around 16".
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I have got the next shelf ready and netted the 2 Green Cracks. If I can get ahold of one more the same size I might add it in. But Green Crack can be a beast when it is happy. At the moment I am playing with drain to waste on another table with 4 plants to see which uses more water. 40 gallons a week recirculating top feed or drain to waste?
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
These are the tops off one plant that was under 200 watts with the original COBs. Still not happy with the run, but glad I still got something. This was with feeding at over 2000 ppm's throughout the entire run ( except the last 2 weeks). I now have a backup PPM meter and my blue lab trucheon should be warrantied by next week. I will be using bottle water until it rains here, then I will have about 350 gallons of capacity in my garden ( one IBC tote and 65 gallon decorative rain barrel in front).

 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
Got ahold of 12 mystery clones. They are either gorilla glue or critical mass. Was using the remote temp sensor for my room to get an idea what temp the heat sink is right above the Vero @ 50 watts. It has only hit 38*c.I know it isn't going to be accurate but still wanted to know. The one's running at 25 watts feel cool, even after an hour of being on.

 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I should have waited another week or 2 before I flipped these. They just aren't happy yet. I am filling up 5 gallons at a time at the machines in front of the supermarket ($1.50). It is 50 ppms. So I decided to test ppms at full strength, 2000 ppm!!! So my plants survived and produce .59 grams per watt living on 2700+ppm water, ph'ed to 5.8 :mrgreen:.
That is solved, now I have a few that will be under 100w fixtures and 200w fixtures. 2 that I have vegging now have finally recovered and showing great root growth. By Monday I will have a couple ready to flower. Others will get a couple weeks.


 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I do like your fixtures...very clean!
Why don't you put the 2 at floor level closer to each other to be able to add one more feet of net and plant between it?
Have a great day ★
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
It is to hard to get to the back side. Plus, I actually gain about 16 square feet when 3 shelves high. Where I am standing usually sits a 3'x3' tray that rolls around, for access. After the 3'x3' tray is filled I will have to build more lights. I am about to give up on hygro (rockwool cubes). Three days away and plants are unhappy, except the one I put in soil. Holy Shit, I am doing something wrong. This will be my last rockwool grow. Soil or Coco next, I just wish I didn't start this run in rockwool. These are the same clone and one went into dirt the same day the other went into the cube.
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I have this last run of cubes and I am done with them. The room has been getting a makeover. I have finally got some heavy duty uni-strut for free. So now there is 4 runs of uni-strut on ceiling for mounting anything, lights, lightmovers, cords, and even the mini-split. Up 2 of the walls I have the heavy duty wall bracket to hang shelving on. My old Magnum357 is now acting as my far red before the light come on and after they are out. I have 10 gorilla glues in the 2 trays and have now add 1 unhappy green crack and 1 happy gorilla glue. They have 200 watts over them on a light mover. Same with the other tray on the top shelf. With only 2 shelves this side of the room 26 feet of shelving. I will also have 12 more feet on the other wall with one 3'x3' tray in the middle. For at least 2500 watts.


 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
I like your use of space vertically.
I hate ph meters now, and probably wont ever buy one again.
I have been through so many ppm and ph meters
I still use a ppm meter, but I use dry chems, and basically know the ppm I will get without it.
I think in soil you would have had lockout way before harvest with that 2000ppm
 
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