Using myko with synthetic feeds

Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Looking for some additional info/opinions on this. It would be more helpful if you have or are using the combination of synth/myko for first hand account.

How did you feed it along side synthetics?, before or after. Maybe on a whole different day or only put in soil at transplant?. Maybe something else?.

Assuming using coco or some other very lightly fertilized soil or soil less mix must you bubble the myko with sugars for them to have any effect/survival?. Would they positively break down and convert the likes of light mixed peat moss based soils?.

Opinions on what you think is the most effective myko for the price tag is also good.

Please add any additional info you think is useful, thnx.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I was using a pond product but had a raging case of rot so switched to hydroguard with great success in my ebb and flo type. I do refill res quite often (1-2 weeks) and just add more.
 
Bareback

Bareback

Well-Known Member
I tried it in a dwc bucket and it just looked like thrash in the water.

But now I mix it in all my soil and it's great
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Bareback said:
I hate to say it but yeah I sprinkled a little in my dwc bucket and it looked as dumb as it sounds two days later I had to hose that shit off the roots , and please remember I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed lol
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I had the same issue with a powder and it plugged my screen and sprayers. I have since stopped using spray nozzles but I do, at the start just water with high concentrate right into cube so roots get it directly, I get a massive root zone that is white and healthy.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Bareback said:
I tried it in a dwc bucket and it just looked like thrash in the water.

But now I mix it in all my soil and it's great
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You just mix it in the soil once or do you also water it in at times?. If so, how so ^^. From reading the synthetics will slowly kill the population so it seems people who use it with synthetic have to apply quite often, also leading to the quesiton of do they feed the myco with sugard or what not or are they just living off of dead root matter?.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
AACT is by far the best available myco supplement!!! You brew it yourself.

A few years ago I began playing with synthetics and feeding one day and watering with a basic AACT the next, alternating. I had to reduce the nutrient concentration by 50% just to start and the plants still showed strong signs of being "pushed".

Living bio's do affect uptake! That was quite obvious !!!!

Synthetics are rather hard on the living bio's but, don't "kill" them all off.....Slaps them awful hard...Even the use of the store bought one's improve results as this has been being found by nutrient companies and that has resulted in all the new choice available.

Still, none of it can come close to the fresh AACT for living bio counts.

This was my go to Tea.

5 gallons of water - use river, stream, pond, rain, or even puddle water = NO RO or DISTILLED WATER!

7 gallon bucket

Dbl output air pump - the stronger/more air (cubic ft per min) the better.

Lines to run from the tank to the bottom of the bucket

2 fine airstones cpt at opossing sides.

1/2 cup of fresh Earth worm castings

1/4 cup Alfalfa meal

1/4 cup unsulfered molasses.

You can use a filter bag for the EWC and meal or simply put it in...

This neds to run as close to 70F as you can for 48 hrs and then use it to water - no nutrients. The use of an aquarium heater works if it's too cold..

I never bothered to strain it, let the solids go in your pot too!

It can be held in the fridge for 3-5 days..

There was a guy that came in here and asked about what I did and he was trying it and was shocked at how much he had to reduce his nutrient use.....We compared notes and he made some adjustments and ran some nice runs!
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I have just as good results with straight hydroguard as with the tea, albeit it's more expensive. I only tried one product for tea production so probably there are better. Also this was in straight up hydro running synthetics. Would love to do a side by without the guard and just chilled water but have limited space. Perhaps one day I'll run individual buckets and can do more trial runs :).
 
Bugeye

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
High synthetic P levels kill off most myco fungi so they don't do much. Now in organics, they are the shit!
 
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Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
AACT is by far the best available myco supplement!!! You brew it yourself.

A few years ago I began playing with synthetics and feeding one day and watering with a basic AACT the next, alternating. I had to reduce the nutrient concentration by 50% just to start and the plants still showed strong signs of being "pushed".

Living bio's do affect uptake! That was quite obvious !!!!

Synthetics are rather hard on the living bio's but, don't "kill" them all off.....Slaps them awful hard...Even the use of the store bought one's improve results as this has been being found by nutrient companies and that has resulted in all the new choice available.

Still, none of it can come close to the fresh AACT for living bio counts.

This was my go to Tea.

5 gallons of water - use river, stream, pond, rain, or even puddle water = NO RO or DISTILLED WATER!

7 gallon bucket

Dbl output air pump - the stronger/more air (cubic ft per min) the better.

Lines to run from the tank to the bottom of the bucket

2 fine airstones cpt at opossing sides.

1/2 cup of fresh Earth worm castings

1/4 cup Alfalfa meal

1/4 cup unsulfered molasses.

You can use a filter bag for the EWC and meal or simply put it in...

This neds to run as close to 70F as you can for 48 hrs and then use it to water - no nutrients. The use of an aquarium heater works if it's too cold..

I never bothered to strain it, let the solids go in your pot too!

It can be held in the fridge for 3-5 days..

There was a guy that came in here and asked about what I did and he was trying it and was shocked at how much he had to reduce his nutrient use.....We compared notes and he made some adjustments and ran some nice runs!
Click to expand...
This may be something to look into down the line.

What could you add to a basic myko supplement such as this while not going full out aact?. Maybe add a simple carb to the mix or perhaps just add some good compost in a stocking as they say?.

It would be easier to use a basic carb myko brew as I assume it would allow you to water it in on same day before the synth feed?. Or maybe after. My understanding of how myko feed is off no doubt.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
This may be something to look into down the line.

What could you add to a basic myko supplement such as this while not going full out aact?. Maybe add a simple carb to the mix or perhaps just add some good compost in a stocking as they say?.

It would be easier to use a basic carb myko brew as I assume it would allow you to water it in on same day before the synth feed?. Or maybe after. My understanding of how myko feed is off no doubt.
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It is my understanding that a tea offers a more diverse herd (EWC) at greater numbers by feeding them in a perfect environment. One reason is cost savings.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
It is my understanding that a tea offers a more diverse herd (EWC) at greater numbers by feeding them in a perfect environment. One reason is cost savings.
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Yeah i don't doubt that doing it properly with organic soil etc gets the most out of myko. How ever not all for one reason or another have the means, space or time to do much else but a basic light fert or soil less mix/coco. In other words what is the minimum amount of input required to see a worthy output from using myko in a synthetic environment. The rest is water off a ducks back for now.

- Correct the logic/intention.

If you typically feed 5L of nutrient to 20% run off in light mix/coco could you change it to this.

Feed 1/4L per plant of myko+carbs (molasses?). Return an hour+ later and begin the 5L to run off nutrient feed.
 
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Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Ya sorry I pretty much have to bow out of this discussion because I typically pour mine into the res or directly into the netpot once a week at every refill so no feed, just replenish. I'm sure what you suggest would work but again I never feed carbs, can they cause issues in coco? And I would do the water first then the benies, thinking I'd just be washing it out of root zone. The tea thing is really not a huge effort and I only made 2 litres at a time, a plastic bottle, a stocking, micos and a small bag of EWC. But yes, it was just another thing to do lol. In hydro I think the big draw again is to turn something that is expensive re: great white into something that you can replenish every week without worrying about the huge cost it would entail. That's my take on it anyways :).
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Ya sorry I pretty much have to bow out of this discussion because I typically pour mine into the res or directly into the netpot once a week at every refill so no feed, just replenish. I'm sure what you suggest would work but again I never feed carbs, can they cause issues in coco? And I would do the water first then the benies, thinking I'd just be washing it out of root zone. The tea thing is really not a huge effort and I only made 2 litres at a time, a plastic bottle, a stocking, micos and a small bag of EWC. But yes, it was just another thing to do lol. In hydro I think the big draw again is to turn something that is expensive re: great white into something that you can replenish every week without worrying about the huge cost it would entail. That's my take on it anyways :).
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You've been helpful none the less thnx. I done more research and it mentions that the plants feed carbs to the myko in return for them giving up stored water/ferts so their should be no need to hand feed the myko unless you want to increase the population yourself in a bucket for product savings perhaps. The emphasis seemed to be that the most important thing above all was ensuring root contact as early in development as possible while continuing after is beneficial but has diminished/no returns toward the last weeks of flower. So I'd guess your call on feeding the myko last to ensure no wash out is a good idea as who knows how long they take to attach.

Also a interesting part was that you could put the myko right in with the neut mix but anything more than 70ppm P will put them into sleep mode. Probably something to also be mindful of in the soil build ups of P and expansion of myko.
 
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Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
This may be something to look into down the line.

What could you add to a basic myko supplement such as this while not going full out aact?. Maybe add a simple carb to the mix or perhaps just add some good compost in a stocking as they say?.

It would be easier to use a basic carb myko brew as I assume it would allow you to water it in on same day before the synth feed?. Or maybe after. My understanding of how myko feed is off no doubt.
Click to expand...
*giggle* I use that Brand in building my soils! I like the fungal spread in it brings.....

The thing with running mycos while using synthetics is the damage factor.....As your figuring out. It appears that a lot of that maybe to the myco's not getting their needed carbs in numbers to keep them healthy. Synthetic nutrients don't supply carbs....(until you buy some cheesey supplements that misrepresent just what those carbs they give you do - all at a stupid price!)

That's something I did not try in those days of AACT use (alternating feed - tea - feed - tea and keep repeating).....
I might be inclined to try that if you like and see if feeding carbs every other day actually keeps those bio's alive and active. You could basically make a call on how long it works by plant reactions....I my self would look at using a high carb bakers molasses. You find this stuff at restaurant/ baking supply companies....I would not mix any higher then 10ml per gallon!

I have never been a fan of molasses in plant growing! If it doesn't work, it could cause a carb build up that may cause fermentation and then an anaerobic condition that will kill the plant.....I might be inclined to try that on 1 plant first, alongside other safe running plants.....

I do know the feed - tea - feed - tea way does work! It'll take you several runs to dial that in as the reduction of needed nutrient is almost shocking......It's good to remember that the use of Si will help N uptake and balance P uptake in bloom.....It helps.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
*giggle* I use that Brand in building my soils! I like the fungal spread in it brings.....

The thing with running mycos while using synthetics is the damage factor.....As your figuring out. It appears that a lot of that maybe to the myco's not getting their needed carbs in numbers to keep them healthy. Synthetic nutrients don't supply carbs....(until you buy some cheesey supplements that misrepresent just what those carbs they give you do - all at a stupid price!)

That's something I did not try in those days of AACT use (alternating feed - tea - feed - tea and keep repeating).....
I might be inclined to try that if you like and see if feeding carbs every other day actually keeps those bio's alive and active. You could basically make a call on how long it works by plant reactions....I my self would look at using a high carb bakers molasses. You find this stuff at restaurant/ baking supply companies....I would not mix any higher then 10ml per gallon!

I have never been a fan of molasses in plant growing! If it doesn't work, it could cause a carb build up that may cause fermentation and then an anaerobic condition that will kill the plant.....I might be inclined to try that on 1 plant first, alongside other safe running plants.....

I do know the feed - tea - feed - tea way does work! It'll take you several runs to dial that in as the reduction of needed nutrient is almost shocking......It's good to remember that the use of Si will help N uptake and balance P uptake in bloom.....It helps.
Click to expand...
Yeah it all sounds like interesting info to try one step at a time. Even holding onto a small colony of myko with basic level constant but low dose applications may save money on neut strength?. It may off set or break even when you factor in myko cost to nute savings. But then you also may have a better root system>plant, it may turn out a clear win to use myko even in this seemingly least ideal circumstance.

I've read a lot of bad info on molasses so all the better if avoidable. It seems very popular and searching for info on other sources of carb to feed myko mostly went full circle to molasses via other more complex organics. I've seen some synthetic style powder additives that are basically MG+carbs but it's likely of the snake oil variant you mentioned.

What would your plan with molasses or alternatives be?.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
Yeah it all sounds like interesting info to try one step at a time. Even holding onto a small colony of myko with basic level constant but low dose applications may save money on neut strength?. It may off set or break even when you factor in myko cost to nute savings. But then you also may have a better root system>plant, it may turn out a clear win to use myko even in this seemingly least ideal circumstance.

I've read a lot of bad info on molasses so all the better if avoidable. It seems very popular and searching for info on other sources of carb to feed myko mostly went full circle to molasses via other more complex organics. I've seen some synthetic style powder additives that are basically MG+carbs but it's likely of the snake oil variant you mentioned.

What would your plan with molasses or alternatives be?.
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It may well, and if you have the urge. It would be an interesting experiment.....I just went into mine with the AACT like a bull at a bullfighter..Refinements were made in several grows to get where I wanted it to be.

I tend to dislike molasses in soils straight in BUT, I've done it, and it was done safley , with no adverse affects...

With that said,,,,truthfully, "I" would do like a tsp(5ml) molasses per gallon of water - every other myco application...that should be perfect. OR only apply once every 5-7 days and smell the soil daily for "off" or sweet/sour odors. That would be safe.....If the 5 to weekly goes ok, then the every other if it is more often would be my next move....The limit would be every other day and I would be sniffing daily at that point again...It should smell "earthy" or maybe a little like a handful of dirt from the edge of the woods...I would sniff the surface and at the drain holes if you can... Smell nothing for a cpl of weeks, your golden and can quit sniffing...If you get a sour yeasty smell...your getting a fermentation going,, light leeching and stop the molasses.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
It may well, and if you have the urge. It would be an interesting experiment.....I just went into mine with the AACT like a bull at a bullfighter..Refinements were made in several grows to get where I wanted it to be.

I tend to dislike molasses in soils straight in BUT, I've done it, and it was done safley , with no adverse affects...

With that said,,,,truthfully, "I" would do like a tsp(5ml) molasses per gallon of water - every other myco application...that should be perfect. OR only apply once every 5-7 days and smell the soil daily for "off" or sweet/sour odors. That would be safe.....If the 5 to weekly goes ok, then the every other if it is more often would be my next move....The limit would be every other day and I would be sniffing daily at that point again...It should smell "earthy" or maybe a little like a handful of dirt from the edge of the woods...I would sniff the surface and at the drain holes if you can... Smell nothing for a cpl of weeks, your golden and can quit sniffing...If you get a sour yeasty smell...your getting a fermentation going,, light leeching and stop the molasses.
Click to expand...
Good info cheers
 
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