Tried my best to fix – Not looking good

Aussieaceae said:
Yep and i agree.

But it isn't my point.
If calcium's being supplemented, on top of nutrient being supplemented at 1000ppm, what makes you believe it's deficient in anything?



Lol :P, yeah i am organic notill. If i'm being honest, i test ph about once a year, in the beginning of the season just before i plant. So i know what to amend with.

I'm fairly familiar with indoor growing. Have had some good runs using straight coco coir hydro. In this instance i always read my waste if something was wrong. Always.

Though we forget, that just like soil, coco coir is always breaking down. It aint like rockwool.
The amount of different organic materials in soil, containing different nutrients, and breaking down at different rates, waste readings in this instance is generally too inaccurate to tell.
If it's a smaller pot, then yes, i can see how reading waste might be reliable. On the contrary though, the soil has come from a reputable supplier, mixed with perlite so it has good drainage etc. So we can assume the soil's structure is going to be fairly consistent all the way through the pot.
Hot spots aren't really going to happen in this case. Maybe if the soil was continuously wet, but still.

My opinion about a slurry sample still stands, because it's testing the soil itself. We aren't growing in an inert medium, the waste will likely read differently to what the soil is itself.

Look i'm beating a dead horse here going back and forth with you. We disagree with each other, but thats ok.

My opinion given the supplied information is that it's lockout.

I'll leave it there.

Take it easy bud. :eyesmoke:
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Wasn't in it for the disagreement, but the growth. Anyhow, enough is enough I suppose. Thanks for entertaining the thought this long.
 
It's good stuff if used correctly. That's not easy to do, without the experience of having plants start looking exactly like the OPs photo. I further amend with garden lime when I do use it, and it sits until it's stable, basically recook it..... That feeding schedule is absolutely absurd in my opinion as well.
 
eddysteady said:
How is adding a supplement that has a Ca Mg ratio of 3/1 to soil which should have a 6/1 ratio ever a good idea ?
And what has that got to do with an element becoming locked up ?
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Just so you understand as well...there is no preset ratio of cal:mag. Op is using ffof..not mineral soil! ffof, like most bagged mixes, are primarily comprised of peat moss, which is not soil! With that said..the ratio of cal:mag is dependent on the medium being used..the heavier/denser the medium, like clay, the higher the ratio should be..up to 10:1 ratio. Calcium ions are much bigger than magnesium..so in denser mediums, the bigger calcium ion will help keep the medium less compacted..more aeration/drainage. With loose soils, like sand or silt..the ratio would be much closer..around 4:1, so that the smaller magnesium ion can 'bring the soil together'..create some substance to it and make it more compact.
Best of luck to the OP..hasn't bothered to reply, so i guess his problem was fixed.
Most calcium deficiencies, assuming one has a good medium, like op, and using 'normal' tap water...is due to watering or ph issues. It may be ph related as there seems to be some mag issue as well, but otherwise, it's usually due to not watering on time. Calcium will be affected first, and overnight if plants are low on water. It only takes a 10% deficiency of an element for symptoms to appear.
 
3rd Monkey said:
How's the problem?
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Hey everyone, wow, this thread has gone crazy and full of info. Thanks so much for filling my brain. I've been reading over and over and trying to absorb all the great info and ideas. Sorry for the slow response, as the father of a 5 year old on the autism spectrum, and trying to become the greatest pot grower of all time (ha!), time has been of the essence.

Here's an update. Since my original post (one week ago), I've done two waterings. Under the circumstances I would usually have just fed straight ph'd water, but my filtered tap water has been in the high 8's lately ph wise. Instead of adding acid, I've found that a super light feeding with Tiger Bloom brings the ph down to the proper range. So, Feb 20 and Feb 24 got water with 5ml of Tiger Bloom per 1.25 gallons. ph in was 6.7 and 6.9 respectively. ph out was 6.4 and 6.45 respectively, so both dropped indicating mild salt buildup of certain nutrients as per the conversations in this thread. ppm in was 420 and 370 respectively (with my tap water being 180ish to start), and ppm out was 1030 and 960 respectively. That's the data, most here will know more about how to decipher this than me. I'm planning to do ph'd water only for the remainder of the feedings to get ph in and out to match better, and reduce the total ppm out?? Does this make sense?

I'm also doing this because this Northern Lights in question, is just over 6 week flower. Chart says it's done in 7 to 9 weeks. I'm hoping that I can harvest 8ish weeks, so two weeks out is a good time to start a flush anyway? Thoughts?

Here's the most recent pics... it seems like it's stabilized? Buds are getting bigger and denser. Trichomes are mostly clear, 20% milky, and really no amber yet.

feb_26_1.jpg feb_26_2.jpg feb_26_3.jpg
 
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