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Bon Farling

Member
I’ve had fourteen grows, some bad, mostly good though. But this one has me stumped. It’s two sativa-dominant hybrid grown from healthy clones (details below).

I tried every approach imaginable and after nothing improved them, I re-examined my soil stash and concluded that it’s lost structure and is probably the problem.

Yesterday I transplanted them and used a new bag of Ocean Forest. I’m concerned that there aren’t enough healthy leaves to get to the finish but wondered if anyone has any suggestions on what to do.


Week 4 of flowering.

tent is 75 degrees 65% rh

12/12 light schedule

Spyder sf 2000 led 200 watt

Lumens - 70,000

Fox farms ocean forest soil, five gallon fabric pot

Alkaline spring water with high ph and low tds.

Watering/feeding at ph 6.3 and using one tsp liquid calmag with feedings along with Fox Farm’s recommended nutes by week, at 1/2 their recommended dose.IMG_2476.jpeg
 
Root cause (pun intended)
I’d be comfortable saying it’s in your root zone. Unless you’re feeding an inert medium than you don’t have enough biology in that wee fabric pot for sustainable growth without throwing something out of wack.
Honestly I’d give it a good top dress with some EWC, FFOF, and definitely skip the cal mag.

…My apologies I just noticed I missed where wrote you transplanted. So disregard top dress lol.

I’d say you have done all u can to try and limp it along if u need the bud but shes losing most of that foliage. But going forward if your using FFOF if you just lightly top dress with that much more frequently (every-every other water you’ll see better results)
 
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LewberDewber852 said:
Root cause (pun intended)
I’d be comfortable saying it’s in your root zone. Unless you’re feeding an inert medium than you don’t have enough biology in that wee fabric pot for sustainable growth without throwing something out of wack.
Honestly I’d give it a good top dress with some EWC, FFOF, and definitely skip the cal mag.

…My apologies I just noticed I missed where wrote you transplanted. So disregard top dress lol.

I’d say you have done all u can to try and limp it along if u need the bud but shes losing most of that foliage. But going forward if your using FFOF if you just lightly top dress with that much more frequently (every-every other water you’ll see better results)
Click to expand...
Thanks. What’s foff?
 
LewberDewber852 said:
Root cause (pun intended)
I’d be comfortable saying it’s in your root zone. Unless you’re feeding an inert medium than you don’t have enough biology in that wee fabric pot for sustainable growth without throwing something out of wack.
Honestly I’d give it a good top dress with some EWC, FFOF, and definitely skip the cal mag.

…My apologies I just noticed I missed where wrote you transplanted. So disregard top dress lol.

I’d say you have done all u can to try and limp it along if u need the bud but shes losing most of that foliage. But going forward if your using FFOF if you just lightly top dress with that much more frequently (every-every other water you’ll see better results)
Click to expand...

I'm going with this...that pot is too small for that plant, which will cause nute problems in itself.
 
futurebanjo said:
I'm going with this...that pot is too small for that plant, which will cause nute problems in itself.
Click to expand...
Nah, there's no way that plant pot is too small for that plant, I've seen plants 3 times the size of that plant in smaller pots and they were perfectly healthy. Those yellow leaves indicate that he has a nitrogen deficiency that is in the late stages of the deficiency. It's a nutrient deficiency. Plants don't just go yellow like that because the plant pot is too small. You need to learn to read what the plant is telling you. A nitrogen deficiency will always start at the bottom of the plant and work it's way up to the top of the plant. That's how you can tell the deficiency is in it's late stages. He either isn't feeding the plant enough nitrogen or he has a nitrogen lockout which could be caused by adding too much calcium and magnesium (cal-mag). He mentioned that he is using fox farms at 1/2 strength which already has calcium and magnesium in the feed. So adding cal-mag along with the fox farms nutrients means he probably has a nitrogen lockout due to adding too much calcium and magnesium.
 

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Fish scale said:
Nah, there's no way that plant pot is too small for that plant, I've seen plants 3 times the size of that plant in smaller pots and they were perfectly healthy. Those yellow leaves indicate that he has a nitrogen deficiency that is in the late stages of the deficiency. It's a nutrient deficiency. Plants don't just go yellow like that because the plant pot is too small. You need to learn to read what the plant is telling you. A nitrogen deficiency will always start at the bottom of the plant and work it's way up to the top of the plant. That's how you can tell the deficiency is in it's late stages. He either isn't feeding the plant enough nitrogen or he has a nitrogen lockout which could be caused by adding too much calcium and magnesium (cal-mag) in the flowering stage. He mentioned that he is using fox farms at 1/2 strength which already has calcium and magnesium in the feed. So adding cal-mag along with the fox farms nutrients means he probably has a nitrogen lockout due to adding too much calcium and magnesium.
Click to expand...
Thanks all. Couple of clarifications: I had them in five gallon pots but moved them to these three gallon containers a few days ago. These are no larger than the ones I’ve had success with in that size.

I know it’s a nitrogen deficiency but the culprit is bad soil and consequently, poor nutrient absorption. When I dug them out to transplant the soil on the bottom was compacted and mushy.

I’ve saved a lot of money on reusing soil but after this, I’m going to track usage and limit soil reuse to a couple of cycles before tossing it.
 
Bon Farling said:
Thanks all. Couple of clarifications: I had them in five gallon pots but moved them to these three gallon containers a few days ago. These are no larger than the ones I’ve had success with in that size.

I know it’s a nitrogen deficiency but the culprit is bad soil and consequently, poor nutrient absorption. When I dug them out to transplant the soil on the bottom was compacted and mushy.

I’ve saved a lot of money on reusing soil but after this, I’m going to track usage and limit soil reuse to a couple of cycles before tossing it.
Click to expand...
You transplanted it from a 5 gallon pot to 3 gallon pot? So you transplanted it into a smaller pot?? You should always avoid transplanting in flower. It can cause a lot of issues. Was your plant like this before you transplanted it?
 
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LewberDewber852 said:
Root cause (pun intended)
I’d be comfortable saying it’s in your root zone. Unless you’re feeding an inert medium than you don’t have enough biology in that wee fabric pot for sustainable growth without throwing something out of wack.
Honestly I’d give it a good top dress with some EWC, FFOF, and definitely skip the cal mag
I’d also dial your light down a bit
Click to expand...

Bon Farling said:
Thanks. What’s foff?
Click to expand...
Fox farm ocean forest which is what your already using and is great! But your plant is not uptaking it bc of how soil works with plants. It’s a complex thing hence why if not diligently addressed indoors can lead to well what your experiencing. Can a bigger plant be grown in that small pot? Of course. Will it always work with every pheno/strain? Absolutely not.
More volume of good soil (which you have) just creates a healthier biology in which the microorganisms thrive and in turn feed your plants. The longer you keep that soil alive and don’t pollute it then the better plants it will grow. You feed the soil not the plant.
No cal mag or other bullshit needed.
Now if we talking an inert medium then you can grow impressive plants in a solo cup.

IMG_4631.jpeg

Green top to bottom and have used nothing but soil, Dr earth 4-4-4, and castings every other time I fill my City pickers with my well water.
Look up the sub irrigated planters (S.I.P thread) on here. Don’t get sold on gimmicks.

I’d also get them post elevated if your on a cold floor.
 
Fish scale said:
Nah, there's no way that plant pot is too small for that plant, I've seen plants 3 times the size of that plant in smaller pots and they were perfectly healthy. Those yellow leaves indicate that he has a nitrogen deficiency that is in the late stages of the deficiency. It's a nutrient deficiency. Plants don't just go yellow like that because the plant pot is too small. You need to learn to read what the plant is telling you. A nitrogen deficiency will always start at the bottom of the plant and work it's way up to the top of the plant. That's how you can tell the deficiency is in it's late stages. He either isn't feeding the plant enough nitrogen or he has a nitrogen lockout which could be caused by adding too much calcium and magnesium (cal-mag). He mentioned that he is using fox farms at 1/2 strength which already has calcium and magnesium in the feed. So adding cal-mag along with the fox farms nutrients means he probably has a nitrogen lockout due to adding too much calcium and magnesium.
Click to expand...
I agree with the uptaking dilemma you are suggesting. Just remember how “living” soil works in nutrient uptake and how that differs from growing in an inert medium. Balance is a lot harder to achieve in a small volume of soil.
 
FFOF and tap water…… simple.

No special water.

This is ready to use , right from the bag . My city water hits 7.2-7.4 ph on average , 355 ppm ( hard water ) , FFOF is prebuffered and will adjust to plant needs. Alkaline ph water is suited more for human needs.

Tap water is good enough for your petunias … your lawn , trees outside. Municipal water has enough calcium and magnesium in most circumstances all without adding calmag in an attempt to “compensate” .

It’s potting soil ….

No mystery or overthinking involved. It’s literally ready for any plant - houseplant , vegetable or cannabis.
It is heavily nuted and will feed for weeks - on just water. After that , add more fresh soil or a few tablespoons of dry fertilizer… that’s it.

GL
 
Budzbuddha said:
FFOF and tap water…… simple.

No special water.

This is ready to use , right from the bag . My city water hits 7.2-7.4 ph on average , 355 ppm ( hard water ) , FFOF is prebuffered and will adjust to plant needs. Alkaline ph water is suited more for human needs.

Tap water is good enough for your petunias … your lawn , trees outside. Municipal water has enough calcium and magnesium in most circumstances all without adding calmag in an attempt to “compensate” .

It’s potting soil ….

No mystery or overthinking involved. It’s literally ready for any plant - houseplant , vegetable or cannabis.
It is heavily nuted and will feed for weeks - on just water. After that , add more fresh soil or a few tablespoons of dry fertilizer… that’s it.

GL
Click to expand...
Curious s as to how long you’ve been able to reuse ffof. I’ve been keeping it in a compost bin and never had problems until this one. Could be three years old or more, probably six grow cycles, and it appears to have lost its suitability now that I’ve compared it to a new bag.

Re water, I learned the hard way that my spring water source will not work in any soil without pH correction. My first few grows always went to hell once flowering commenced. Once I started correcting the ph they did well. I think the raw pH is 8.5 or so.
 
Bon Farling said:
Curious s as to how long you’ve been able to reuse ffof. I’ve been keeping it in a compost bin and never had problems until this one. Could be three years old or more, probably six grow cycles, and it appears to have lost its suitability now that I’ve compared it to a new bag.

Re water, I learned the hard way that my spring water source will not work in any soil without pH correction. My first few grows always went to hell once flowering commenced. Once I started correcting the ph they did well. I think the raw pH is 8.5 or so.
Click to expand...
My issues in flowering stopped once I kept up with top dressing and dimmed my light a bit. I have high ph water (last measured at 8+) but the buffers in the soil should correct it for the most part. This is another reason volume is your friend with soil. You top watering or bottom watering?

Also your compost. Are you sure you’re adding enough N sources? Like leaves and what not? I read an interesting article recently about prior to the invention of synthetic fertilizer the agriculture couldn’t sustain the population. The compost didn’t contain enough nitrogen and there wasn’t enough dead plant matter to support fields which caused famine. So Fritz Haber figured out how to create Ammonia from Nitrogen (most abundant element in our atmosphere) and Hydrogen. The Ammonia could be used to manufacture plant fertilizer and saved large populations of humans but also led to explosives so kinda came with a price.

Anyways that’s what made me ask about your composting methods! There are some smart people on composting here that I’m sure have tips. bongsmilie
 
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