TheFuture
Well-Known Member
This is my grow journal for my personal Medical and CBD Hemp garden. The majority of plants in the garden are high CBD producing strains I have been tweaking and experimenting with. Some are better outdoors. Some are way better indoors. However, with the CBD producing strains it is difficult to "weed out" the ones that are stable and only produce CBD content with less than 0.03% THC content.
The good side, however, is that there is no limit on number of hemp plants you can have here in Colorado as it is regulated by the Department of Agriculture. The Sheriff can test your plants on the spot to see if they have a THC content and when it is found lacking they are seriously like "blah" and pack it up.
So, I get to experiment with many plants and have a bunch of CBD material to turn into wax and oil for pills. I have seriously debilitating pain and when it is good, CBD actually helps me get rid of the pain and oddly enough is kindof like an energy booster. I have my 12 max Medical plants that the doc has prescribed me, 6 mature and 6 immature.
I've worked in the Colorado industry as a badged employee for several years now, so I have seen it in the good old glory days as well as the wasteland it has become now. I know as well as most other residents of Colorado that the dispensaries no longer have good product. They pump out mass quantities of bud that just looks better than what the average tourist is used to getting back home. Passing off mediocre bud grown poorly and trimmed artistically is a shame, so we pretty much just have to grow our own stuff.
My produce is for personal use only and among friends and patients. I try to have a good cure or at least 1 month before cracking the jar to smoke other than tester puffs.
Propagation: 1x 4-bulb T5 Fluorescent for 1 tray of started seedlings. Tray includes vented 2" dome and is on a germination/heating mat.
1x 125w CFL Fluorowing Fluorescent for 2 trays of seedlings with cotyledons, in 4" pots.
Vegetative: 1x 600w Lumatek Digital Ballast, HPS Phillips Son-Agro bulb (now Son-T)
Flower: 1x 1000w Lumatek Digital Ballast, HPS Phillips Son-Agro bulb
I have no fans for circulation in the vegetative area, and only a small window fan in the flowering area. Basically the only ventilation the flowering area has is a bathroom fan and the veg area is just dry. I'll eventually fix that.
I have no air filter either, and I'll fix that too. It's getting a bit pungent around here.
I use regular old tap water with Chloramine in it. I need to get an RO filter with a carbon K filter to remove it and I will have less of an ammonia buildup in my medium. Sometimes I get the RO water from the thing at the store of the road but I hate lugging around the 5 gal bottles. The water causes my medium, Pro-MIX BX, to end up eventually having a high ammonia issue that could cause the roots to die. After years of dealing with this at a commercial level it is no problem. But we use BIG RO machines there and I cant take home water. I dont have an RO machine yet. So there. I DO believe water quality is paramount.
I use Pro-Mix BX as stated previously. I love it. It is consistent, is sterile other than the BX inoculants, has no bullshit in it and I can feel confident it will perform the same every time. I use a lot of fulvic acid and humates, so my fertilizer regimen is usually 5.8 on the money but sometimes as low as 4.8. When thats the case I usually just dilute with tap water until the fertilizer solution reaches 5.6pH. I can flush it out and reach as low as 40ppm. Even with the acidic fertilizer, The Pro-MIX BX has a tendency to swing downward in pH - as low as 4.0 if left unchecked. To counter this swing, I use 1 teaspoon of Dolomitic Lime Soil Sweetener per 1 gallon of dry Pro-MIX BX.
My fertilizers are from a company called Kimitec USA. The company is based in Spain and I personally know the owners and have done experimental trials for them with the products use on Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Bell Peppers, Lettuce, Kale, and other vegetables. They are all natural organic fertilizers derived from beet sugars, cane molasses, phytotropic bacteria, fulvic and humic acids. The main difference in them from typical organic fertilizers is that there is no composting or aerating. No break down preparation, since the bacteria in the product has already broken it down and made it bioavailable. It really is the best of both worlds: The goodness and taste of organics with the mode of action and speed of metabolism of a synthetic. If it sounds like I sell the stuff, it's because I do and am a wholesaler. However, I do use it on all my personal grows from Hemp to Medical Cannabis to Tomatoes and Amaryllis.
The good side, however, is that there is no limit on number of hemp plants you can have here in Colorado as it is regulated by the Department of Agriculture. The Sheriff can test your plants on the spot to see if they have a THC content and when it is found lacking they are seriously like "blah" and pack it up.
So, I get to experiment with many plants and have a bunch of CBD material to turn into wax and oil for pills. I have seriously debilitating pain and when it is good, CBD actually helps me get rid of the pain and oddly enough is kindof like an energy booster. I have my 12 max Medical plants that the doc has prescribed me, 6 mature and 6 immature.
I've worked in the Colorado industry as a badged employee for several years now, so I have seen it in the good old glory days as well as the wasteland it has become now. I know as well as most other residents of Colorado that the dispensaries no longer have good product. They pump out mass quantities of bud that just looks better than what the average tourist is used to getting back home. Passing off mediocre bud grown poorly and trimmed artistically is a shame, so we pretty much just have to grow our own stuff.
My produce is for personal use only and among friends and patients. I try to have a good cure or at least 1 month before cracking the jar to smoke other than tester puffs.
Propagation: 1x 4-bulb T5 Fluorescent for 1 tray of started seedlings. Tray includes vented 2" dome and is on a germination/heating mat.
1x 125w CFL Fluorowing Fluorescent for 2 trays of seedlings with cotyledons, in 4" pots.
Vegetative: 1x 600w Lumatek Digital Ballast, HPS Phillips Son-Agro bulb (now Son-T)
Flower: 1x 1000w Lumatek Digital Ballast, HPS Phillips Son-Agro bulb
I have no fans for circulation in the vegetative area, and only a small window fan in the flowering area. Basically the only ventilation the flowering area has is a bathroom fan and the veg area is just dry. I'll eventually fix that.
I have no air filter either, and I'll fix that too. It's getting a bit pungent around here.
I use regular old tap water with Chloramine in it. I need to get an RO filter with a carbon K filter to remove it and I will have less of an ammonia buildup in my medium. Sometimes I get the RO water from the thing at the store of the road but I hate lugging around the 5 gal bottles. The water causes my medium, Pro-MIX BX, to end up eventually having a high ammonia issue that could cause the roots to die. After years of dealing with this at a commercial level it is no problem. But we use BIG RO machines there and I cant take home water. I dont have an RO machine yet. So there. I DO believe water quality is paramount.
I use Pro-Mix BX as stated previously. I love it. It is consistent, is sterile other than the BX inoculants, has no bullshit in it and I can feel confident it will perform the same every time. I use a lot of fulvic acid and humates, so my fertilizer regimen is usually 5.8 on the money but sometimes as low as 4.8. When thats the case I usually just dilute with tap water until the fertilizer solution reaches 5.6pH. I can flush it out and reach as low as 40ppm. Even with the acidic fertilizer, The Pro-MIX BX has a tendency to swing downward in pH - as low as 4.0 if left unchecked. To counter this swing, I use 1 teaspoon of Dolomitic Lime Soil Sweetener per 1 gallon of dry Pro-MIX BX.
My fertilizers are from a company called Kimitec USA. The company is based in Spain and I personally know the owners and have done experimental trials for them with the products use on Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Bell Peppers, Lettuce, Kale, and other vegetables. They are all natural organic fertilizers derived from beet sugars, cane molasses, phytotropic bacteria, fulvic and humic acids. The main difference in them from typical organic fertilizers is that there is no composting or aerating. No break down preparation, since the bacteria in the product has already broken it down and made it bioavailable. It really is the best of both worlds: The goodness and taste of organics with the mode of action and speed of metabolism of a synthetic. If it sounds like I sell the stuff, it's because I do and am a wholesaler. However, I do use it on all my personal grows from Hemp to Medical Cannabis to Tomatoes and Amaryllis.
