Switching to dry salts

ruwtz

ruwtz

Well-Known Member
As I learn more about plant botany (thanks internet), I'm finally done with bottled water. I get more freedom and control with dry salts, not to mention the crazy savings.

Order has been placed and as I await delivery this week i'm studying all different kinds of nutrient profiles I could apply.

Starting simple, my base will be Peters Hydro 5-11-26 (similar to Jack's, just less epsom) + Calcium nitrate + potassium silicate. Further adjustments will be made as necessary with epsom, ammonium sulfate, mono ammonium phosphate, calcium chloride and biostimulants such as soluble fulvic + humic acids, seaweed extract etc.

The only bottle I will continue to buy is Hydroguard, unless I see a way of replicating this too.

I'm in amended coco, E&F veg and drip dtw flower with RO water.

One thing on my mind:
  • [1] Calcinit by Yaraliva listed as 15.5-0-0 + 18% calcium. I bought via customhydronutrients.com which states 1g/gal = 41ppm nitrates + 50ppm Ca, which doesn't seem anywhere near the results I got from using a widely available formula for finding ppm's when you know the % of a given element in the mix.
EG> 1g fert added to a liter = 10ppm of element per percentage point, so 1g/liter of 15.5-0-0 gives 155ppm nitrogen. 3.7L per gallon = 573, divided by 4 to get back to 1g = 143ppm.

By the same formula, 1g of 18% calcium should give 166ppm per gallon.

Is my maths scrambled here, or is the guide on the website totally out?? A simpler answer would be for a calnit user to cough up the ppm's they find from a given weight in solution, so feel free to jump in!
 
FWIW, I hear awesome everything about the Hydrobuddy calculator, but there's no version for Mac so i'm stuck building my own spreadsheets based on ppms of the above salts and trying to manually hit them sweet ratios.

This is why I want precise ppm's to start with.
 
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Also, the 5-11-26 from Peter's or near identical 5-12-26 are high in K, even after accounting for the additional calcinit.

Is this because K is highly soluble and therefore easily leached from the medium?

I found the spec sheet for Peters and their numbers state elemental K so its not even the oxidized compound form K2O, which often explains the exaggerated K on many nute labels.

Likewise for P.
 
I think I've seen my own mistake.

Ppm's per liter should be divided, not multiplied, in order to arrive at the ppm's per gallon.

Doing it this way comes to N 42ppm and Ca 49ppm, so the customhydronutrients website is correct after all.

Move along, nothing to see here...
 
GreenSanta said:
Yes, but most people are like you and thats why the herb i grow stands out. I'd understand if you could grow better with salt based fertilizer. I am also a COB evangelist.

Also, organic is cheaper, if u stay off the bottles...
Click to expand...
Nah, i have seen a lot like you, you are only a cheap guy who likes to keep their money in their pockets and use excuses like organic and all natural and off the bottle, while they grow crappy weed. and yeah COB and organic go together, both are inferior to my methods, and i am sure that your bud is not half as good as mine, probably got ecoli from all the manure as well lol
 
zem said:
Nah, i have seen a lot like you, you are only a cheap guy who likes to keep their money in their pockets and use excuses like organic and all natural and off the bottle, while they grow crappy weed. and yeah COB and organic go together, both are inferior to my methods, and i am sure that your bud is not half as good as mine, probably got ecoli from all the manure as well lol
Click to expand...
What makes you think I grow crappy weed? You think I grow organic to save money? its only added benefits. I grow organic because I want my shit to be the shit.

You are an idiot. I feel for you. And please keep growing the way you do, makes my job a whole lot easier.
 
excuse me for sounding arrogant before, it was triggered by you calling my bud inferior to yours, while you grow under cob using homemade organic stuff, i like your methods, i would try them if i did not need as much bud, but i consume quite a quantity, and my space is limited so i use it most efficiently, and that is why i grow hydroponic marijuana, which is free of pesticides full of resin and goodness, properly cured, and definitely "stands out". oh and if you ever happen to see my grows, you will definitely change your mind about me being an idiot. Happy growing :)
 
Ah,,,, hydro is faster, has just an itsy bit more yield (if done right either way).....I guess your going for speed advantage?.....Plenty of that.
Soil, organic soil growing, is where I started....I just am partial to it.....It's my method of choice.....YET,,,I am seeing some really great things being done with Botanicares KIND line around here. Soil and hydro.....I'm breaking down again and just got some to play with in soil....Just to see what I can do with it....For some reason, my mind says I'll end up doing some DWC with it this winter too..


zem is not an idiot and I never call hydro "inferior".....Might not have the same terp or taste profile exactly as soil.....But, I've had some pretty lame soil grown too!

yes

Happy growing :bigjoint:
 
Thank you Dr appreciate it, hydro is way faster than soil in most aspects, much more efficient in one considers the value of the final product vs the investment. Also, whoever says hydro is more labour intensive, especially in an indoor op, must not do hydro in the fist place because it is the only way that allows full automation and more efficiency. Plants' needs are provided much faster in hydro, plants grow faster all in all, in veg you get bigger better plants, and in flowering you add more weight to your bud, and due to all the control, you have more consistent results of good yields, and then when you finish, it's only flushing cleaning and recycling, no need for new growing media and stuff like that. And don't get me started on pest prevention, i get no pest problems year in year out, i never spray peticides on flowering plants, i get a yearly room cleaning when i might spray the area with pesticides after i had cleared all the bud, apart from that,it is not an easy habitat for the pests to survive. The added values are so many and cannot be summed up, one has to try it to understand them
 
zem said:
excuse me for sounding arrogant before, it was triggered by you calling my bud inferior to yours, while you grow under cob using homemade organic stuff, i like your methods, i would try them if i did not need as much bud, but i consume quite a quantity, and my space is limited so i use it most efficiently, and that is why i grow hydroponic marijuana, which is free of pesticides full of resin and goodness, properly cured, and definitely "stands out". oh and if you ever happen to see my grows, you will definitely change your mind about me being an idiot. Happy growing :)
Click to expand...
Well I'm sorry too lol, but u said organic and crappy weed in the same sentence.

I understand that organic the way I do is not for everyone. But let me explain....

First, it can be 100% free with organics, not to save money bUT to grow great pot. BUT, you do need a space outside where u can do all that composting stuff, again not everybody has that luxury. And even though it is free, in the end it involves some work ( u do have to find and gather stuff to compost lol )

The part where I have to spend a lot off money on, because of my context (perpetual grow) I spend quite a bit on beneficial insects, it wouldn't be that bad if I was running cycles like most people.

Now the part where you guys say hydro better growth more yield and sooner?? Well you have to see how plants behave in a SIP container, growth rate of hydro, taste and smoke like organics.

If salt based fertilizer were not bad for the environment you would not see me preaching, just doing it for mom nature.


PS I have not sprayed pesticides in over 3 years, not even organic pesticides. I control pest strictly with beneficial insects.
 
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All great stuff guys but back to dry salts...

I'm trying to reverse engineer the most widely available solution using 5-11-26 + calnit and seeing how this matches my target nutrient profile.

The standard stock solution for Jacks/Peters 5-11-26 is 880g per gallon to give 10ml/gallon or 370ppm.

Equally, the standard stock solution for the corresponding Calcinit is 580g/gal, again delivered at 10ml/gal or 270ppm.

Whats the math to work out the elemental ppm's of this solution?

Sorry to bother you @ttystikk but I know you run this in stock solutions so maybe you can enlighten me here?? :blsmoke:
 
ruwtz said:
All great stuff guys but back to dry salts...

I'm trying to reverse engineer the most widely available solution using 5-11-26 + calnit and seeing how this matches my target nutrient profile.

The standard stock solution for Jacks/Peters 5-11-26 is 880g per gallon to give 10ml/gallon or 370ppm.

Equally, the standard stock solution for the corresponding Calcinit is 580g/gal, again delivered at 10ml/gal or 270ppm.

Whats the math to work out the elemental ppm's of this solution?

Sorry to bother you @ttystikk but I know you run this in stock solutions so maybe you can enlighten me here?? :blsmoke:
Click to expand...

I don't get fancy, I just run it.
 
Ok for the 5-11-26 I went with the stock solution of 880g/gal for an application rate of 10ml/gal. This hits around 330ppm (.500 scale).

With the calnit stock of 580g/gal + same application it comes in at around 270ppm, totaling 600ppm.

I also made stocks of mag sulfate, potassium silicate, mono ammonium phosphate, ammonium sulfate and fulvic acid, all of which have gone into various stages of the garden for the first time today.
 
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