STS mixed solution, is this normal?

Esdreel

Active Member
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water.
This color is correct?
They began to bubble vigorously, then turned into the color,
I seem to find less 30ML liquid evaporates was the reaction?
 

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SCARHOLE

Well-Known Member
Yes it has happened to me, sometimes it stays clear for awhile an then Browns.

Don't dilute your stock solution to 1:9.
I go way stronger 1:1 an spray every day an it reverses the fuck out of them, an dosent hurt the plant...
 

mike4c4

Well-Known Member
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water.
This color is correct?
They began to bubble vigorously, then turned into the color,
I seem to find less 30ML liquid evaporates was the reaction?
wow i never seen that before. i mix mine like the website said: with 100% success

Preparation of Silver Thiosulfate Solution (STS):

First, a stock solution of 1.0L is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, each into 500ml of water, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: 0.5 grams silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (part A, 500ml) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (part B, 500ml) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS.

This is then sprayed on selected female plants.


This formula is strong and this much STS can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants.


Application:

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In our trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.


Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
 
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