Strawberries

I live in southeast new mexico long growing season I know I'm a little late making it to the show. Pretty cool I would like to share for someone who may not know this about strawberries. had some big sweet ones from the store which is rare, so I cut the skin off let it dry in the sun for a couple days, finally about 3wks later we have life. Had also made some blueberry wine once I poured the juice into bucket and cheese cloth I noticed a ton of blueberry seeds so I did the same let them dry and planted. They haven't sprouted yet little sooner in germination process, hopefully we'll see something soon. They'll be potted, I'm not this year last year and beyond I've had success with potted tomatoes, peppers, sweet and regular potatoes and some greens in cooler months. My wife loves strawberry wine I love blueberry. We're city dwellers be cool to make our wine with the fruit I've grown. any tips for potted strawberries or blueberries are welcome. I'll keep this updated periodically. May make some wine if that's allowed on here.

Honestly you wont be getting any fruit until next year. You should just order some plants if you want fruit this yr. Id probably go june bearing for wine purposes

Without enough plants ever bearing may not have enough done at once to make wine or juice unless you freeze them

bam0813 said:

Without enough plants ever bearing may not have enough done at once to make wine or juice unless you freeze them

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Only need 4lbs you dont think I'll get that out of a few or 4 sprouted so far. Just started showing today. I'll toss these sum bitches now haha

Not if you grew from seed not till next yr imo

With blueberries you will want a very acidic soil, more so then any tomato or strawberry.. Blueberries thrive in very acid soil from 4.5-5.5 PH whereas strawberries are more neutral. Strawberries are very easy to grow, blueberries can be a challenge.

Also Strawberries wont produce fruit from seed the first year, unless you are using rooted cuts then you should expect fruit a year after planting seeds.. Also strawberries have a lifespan "unless you root the runners"..

A tip to produce bigger strawberries would be when your strawberries are big enough to bare fruit you would start to trim the runners, this will promote more growth on the fruits.

Playk328 said:

Also Strawberries wont produce fruit from seed the first year, unless you are using rooted cuts then you should expect fruit a year after planting seeds.. Also strawberries have a lifespan "unless you root the runners"..

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Appreciate that I thought I was going to have to figure out how to get a bare root. I was going to treat them like tomatoes in the sense of getting suckers or runners. Never considered rooting them. I've grown potted potatoes and sweet potatoes like that. Rooting the vine should be similar, right?

yeah you shouldn't have any problem with the strawberries, they are very easy to handle.. The runners will start rooting when they hit the soil, you can move them around to fill out beds ect or more cuts for more beds..

We started with around 30 rooted plants from my neighbor and its growing at a rapid pace, you will find yourself either tossing plants or making many more areas for them in no time..

I started growing them for my daughter but I ended up enjoying growing them more then she enjoys picking them

Playk328 said:

yeah you shouldn't have any problem with the strawberries, they are very easy to handle.. The runners will start rooting when they hit the soil, you can move them around to fill out beds ect or more cuts for more beds..

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I put the potato vines in water for a loooong time lol the runners wont need that or did I do too much with the potato cuttings? Our growing season runs until end December first January. If that helps anyone with advise. That's when it gets cold

Runners you would just keep them on the plant "dont cut them".. position them where they have space to grow, let them root and then you can pull that plant up and place her somewhere else if you want. you can put them in a bucket of water for a bit but they will eventually die if you dont plant them

Playk328 said:

Runners you would just keep them on the plant "dont cut them".. position them where they have space to grow, let them root and then you can pull that plant up and place her somewhere else if you want. you can put them in a bucket of water for a bit but they will eventually die if you dont plant them

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Gotcha my bad

You can also dry the roots out, and grow them later, Ive seen some buy roots this way as well

The good thing tho is with your strawberries you have now there should be no reason to need to plant any more seeds ever again, you can keep your strawberries going and even expand them with just the runners..

Blueberries on the other hand can be a pain in the ass. With blueberries you seem to have to do the opposite of your natural instinct of wanting to keep a neutral ph "most vegging plants like neutral", so with blueberries you have to do whatever you can to lower the soil down.. Plant in straight peat moss, no dolomite.. You would want something that lowers ph "like gypsum".

I visited one of Driscol's substrate berry farms a month or so ago, and along with their usual red strawberries, they also had some pink and even white cultivars. I tried one of the white ones and they were pretty amazing. They said they get over double the price of the red berries for the white ones, and they yield really good too.

Playk328 said:

Blueberries on the other hand can be a pain in the ass. With blueberries you seem to have to do the opposite of your natural instinct of wanting to keep a neutral ph "most vegging plants like neutral", so with blueberries you have to do whatever you can to lower the soil down.. Plant in straight peat moss, no dolomite.. You would want something that lowers ph "like gypsum".

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Bud gypsum doesn't effect soil ph gypsum I use it in my cannabis grow sometimes, and fruits and vegetables. Dolomite lime is a calmag nutrient does raise soil ph. I was gonna use this on blue berries