so i am getting a closed loop and have a couple questions

i am looking into buying a mini extactor passive system that runs 135g with the standard column it comes with but am buying a "dewaxing" column that will handle 60-90 grams the column basically has a extra sleave to pack with dry ice/ipa to chill the material inside the column.....but my first question is should i buy a ball valve so that i can leave the butane on the material longer or should i just run it multiple times straight through? also the set comes with a 150 micron metal screen filter do i put coffee filter on top of that in my column or just use the metal screen. any help would be greatly appreciated...also i do plan on winterizing and vacuum purging the product.

A open blasting tube with a dewaxer? You got a link to this?

no im looking at a closed loop by bestvaluevacs.com......they do have some sorta open blast situation that has a dewax column though i think

mrmaddu said:

i am looking into buying a mini extactor passive system that runs 135g with the standard column it comes with but am buying a "dewaxing" column that will handle 60-90 grams the column basically has a extra sleave to pack with dry ice/ipa to chill the material inside the column.....but my first question is should i buy a ball valve so that i can leave the butane on the material longer or should i just run it multiple times straight through? also the set comes with a 150 micron metal screen filter do i put coffee filter on top of that in my column or just use the metal screen. any help would be greatly appreciated...also i do plan on winterizing and vacuum purging the product.

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i help yah ......we just ordered a rig that can do 1 lb

1 the dewaxing one u use dry ice and denatured alcohol .........the alcohol has a very low freezing temp the dry ice will not do it but it will make the column colder faster for less ice ( u can save and store the denatured alcohol for runs later

2 yes the ball valve is worth it ..........like u said it allows it to sit on material so it can strip everything off more effectively (if u do not get a ball valve before u dump out the plant material hit it with a iso wash u will get a few more grams off it ) ........if u just let it pass tho sometimes a bit gets caught up on the end just not enough to push it all the way tho....the ball valve will fix that given it time to strip it off

3 as for the filters .....the 150 micron screen is going to give u the most oil as possible .......if u put in say 4 unbleached coffee filters u have made a micron screen around 15.....the bho will come out higher quality (it can be used in evape pens with out clogging up the intake) ...........but if u are not making for that the 150 micron is fine on it own ..........note if u want u can winterize it with 195% everclear and use the 4 unbleached coffee filters to strain out the ice crystals and to pass the oil tho a finer screen


4 as for vacuum purge...........i am telling u now u need to invest in a anti boom vaccuum pump ..........u can have a active close loop system vacuum purge out in the rig then u can winterize and let it set for sale or use

when u use butane ....i am triple careful.....u could purge off with a reg vacuum pump if u let the system heat purge frist then put it under vacuum for 2/3 days -30psi

oh last part

if u are going to use BHO in food
.......it can be done......u need special gas called N-butane ........it is the cleanest form there is of the stuff so it cost a good bit......it is 99.9998% pure it will pass any test and be cleared for sale on the shelf

https://www.puretanebutane.com/

im making pretty decent product now without a vacuum real clear and can get it pretty stable in normal oven but just trying to step my game up....the ball valve is $200....i may just run the butane a couple of passes through the material

justugh said:

oh last part

if u are going to use BHO in food
.......it can be done......u need special gas called N-butane ........it is the cleanest form there is of the stuff so it cost a good bit......it is 99.9998% pure it will pass any test and be cleared for sale on the shelf

https://www.puretanebutane.com/

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Those cans of butane contain propellants aka mystery oils , the only way to get clean butane is through a gas supplier and purchase by the tank.

Yodaweed said:

Those cans of butane contain propellants aka mystery oils , the only way to get clean butane is through a gas supplier and purchase by the tank.

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no double check the site

no oils no nothing in the cans .......they are food grade plastic lined cans .........that is the whole sales point for the gas this stuff will pass inspection to allow it to be sold in stores that still allow BHO .,....and the fact it is food grade BHO no mercaps at all

it N-butane u can only get purer stuff if u are a lab.......this is new to USA they been selling it in europe for years ......i think the original brand was called newport (first N-butane on the market) and that was imported from england

i did my back ground work on this subject before i put down 2k for the rig .....i like to get a active loop system but i got to stick with passive untill i recoop some of the investment

mrmaddu said:

im making pretty decent product now without a vacuum real clear and can get it pretty stable in normal oven but just trying to step my game up....the ball valve is $200....i may just run the butane a couple of passes through the material

Click to expand...

this is the one i am getting
http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/cls1lb-ax.html

as u see the recover tank can break down into smaller sizes .........something like that would step the game up

get a induction cooktop and one of there plates to transfer the heat ............set it on there turn to 120 and purge out all the gas u can back into your gas tank then break it up and vacuum out the smaller part leaving it on the pic ......with a pic u just need to come back every 2 hours and make the temp go up then back down (180 min cut off bilt into the PIC)


but it will give u the heat control u need and should make getting most of the gas back easier in a passive system ........pic system goes in 2 degree increments and it holds that temp with in 10 degrees the whole time u set it

so it is prefect for purgeing it off but keeping the temp under the decarb range so u can let it go for hours with out worry of losing power

justugh said:

no double check the site

no oils no nothing in the cans .......they are food grade plastic lined cans .........that is the whole sales point for the gas this stuff will pass inspection to allow it to be sold in stores that still allow BHO .,....and the fact it is food grade BHO no mercaps at all

it N-butane u can only get purer stuff if u are a lab.......this is new to USA they been selling it in europe for years ......i think the original brand was called newport (first N-butane on the market) and that was imported from england

i did my back ground work on this subject before i put down 2k for the rig .....i like to get a active loop system but i got to stick with passive untill i recoop some of the investment



this is the one i am getting
http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/cls1lb-ax.html

as u see the recover tank can break down into smaller sizes .........something like that would step the game up

get a induction cooktop and one of there plates to transfer the heat ............set it on there turn to 120 and purge out all the gas u can back into your gas tank then break it up and vacuum out the smaller part leaving it on the pic ......with a pic u just need to come back every 2 hours and make the temp go up then back down (180 min cut off bilt into the PIC)


but it will give u the heat control u need and should make getting most of the gas back easier in a passive system ........pic system goes in 2 degree increments and it holds that temp with in 10 degrees the whole time u set it

so it is prefect for purgeing it off but keeping the temp under the decarb range so u can let it go for hours with out worry of losing power

Click to expand...

With legalization comes regulation, soooo if you are marketing any product to legal dispensaries, sooner or later your equipment will be required to meet ASME pressure piping standards for 6" and under, or NFPA-51. This unit does not.

At a minimum, you would need to replace the 6" clamps with SSH high pressure clamps, and the 4" with 13 MPH high pressure clamps, and add a pressure relief in the lid as well as one in the line between the tank and column, as it can be isolated full of liquid, if both tank and column valves are closed. If you add a valve at the base of the column, you will require a pressure relief on the column as well.

Regulatory issues aside, from a design standpoint, it should work, though it won't be fast with its limited surface area. Going deeper contains more liquid, but the surface boiling area stays the same.

Alas if you go bigger than 6", you are back to regulations, because then ASME Section VIII pressure vessel rules apply, which requires vessel documentation and certification, so staying at 6" avoids that issue at the expense of speed.

Does it achieve the same dewaxing effect having the material column sorrounded by dry ice and letting solvent sit there as having a dewaxing column where the solven can sit after it has passed through the material?

justugh said:

no double check the site

no oils no nothing in the cans .......they are food grade plastic lined cans .........that is the whole sales point for the gas this stuff will pass inspection to allow it to be sold in stores that still allow BHO .,....and the fact it is food grade BHO no mercaps at all

it N-butane u can only get purer stuff if u are a lab.......this is new to USA they been selling it in europe for years ......i think the original brand was called newport (first N-butane on the market) and that was imported from england

i did my back ground work on this subject before i put down 2k for the rig .....i like to get a active loop system but i got to stick with passive untill i recoop some of the investment



this is the one i am getting
http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/cls1lb-ax.html

as u see the recover tank can break down into smaller sizes .........something like that would step the game up

get a induction cooktop and one of there plates to transfer the heat ............set it on there turn to 120 and purge out all the gas u can back into your gas tank then break it up and vacuum out the smaller part leaving it on the pic ......with a pic u just need to come back every 2 hours and make the temp go up then back down (180 min cut off bilt into the PIC)


but it will give u the heat control u need and should make getting most of the gas back easier in a passive system ........pic system goes in 2 degree increments and it holds that temp with in 10 degrees the whole time u set it

so it is prefect for purgeing it off but keeping the temp under the decarb range so u can let it go for hours with out worry of losing power

Click to expand...

All cans of butane contain mystery oils, read this article.

https://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-mystery-oil/


From that article "
Puretane #1 had 0.006g of residue
Puretane, USA, 300ml/167g can, reads on the bottom “13339 (1) 34623 06332”

Puretane #2 had 0.006g of residue
Puretane, USA, 300ml/167g can, reads on the bottom “13339 (1) 34623 06324”
"

Yodaweed said:

All cans of butane contain mystery oils, read this article.

https://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-mystery-oil/


From that article "
Puretane #1 had 0.006g of residue
Puretane, USA, 300ml/167g can, reads on the bottom “13339 (1) 34623 06332”

Puretane #2 had 0.006g of residue
Puretane, USA, 300ml/167g can, reads on the bottom “13339 (1) 34623 06324”
"

Click to expand...

that those lvls i get more in my system when i sharpen my knives or clean a gun or work on a car just from simple face/mouth contact ......unless u have access to a lab or someone that does getting the pruest out there is inpossible

food grade ........that is all i am personally worried about

the shit is lower then newport(that is the only UK important one i have found here) .......from all the reading i sawl 0.006 is great with only 6 breaking it few from UK one from china 1 from usa ......shocking zippo is the best with a 0.001 rating

thanks i will check out a case of zippo gas

justugh said:

that those lvls i get more in my system when i sharpen my knives or clean a gun or work on a car just from simple face/mouth contact ......unless u have access to a lab or someone that does getting the pruest out there is inpossible

food grade ........that is all i am personally worried about

the shit is lower then newport(that is the only UK important one i have found here) .......from all the reading i sawl 0.006 is great with only 6 breaking it few from UK one from china 1 from usa ......shocking zippo is the best with a 0.001 rating

thanks i will check out a case of zippo gas

Click to expand...

You should be looking to buy a tank of N-butane from a gas supplier, not cans, they all contain contaminates that are harmful.

Yodaweed said:

You should be looking to buy a tank of N-butane from a gas supplier, not cans, they all contain contaminates that are harmful.

Click to expand...

i do not live in the area i process in

i am 2360 miles away from it ......i fly in take a couple days for some fun do the work and fly back

if u know a supplier in OR i can walk in and pick up a tank please tell me .....i rather get a deal on a bulk amount then need to spend 2 oz on gas

down here i might be able to find a supplier willing to do a cash deal and a gallon of shine to keep it off the books ........but i got no contacts in OR for gases or anything other then trim and bud

Not sure where you are but just google, local gas supplier, maybe you can find one? They sell several different grades, so I would read up on what grade you need first as well.

justugh said:

i do not live in the area i process in

i am 2360 miles away from it ......i fly in take a couple days for some fun do the work and fly back

if u know a supplier in OR i can walk in and pick up a tank please tell me .....i rather get a deal on a bulk amount then need to spend 2 oz on gas

down here i might be able to find a supplier willing to do a cash deal and a gallon of shine to keep it off the books ........but i got no contacts in OR for gases or anything other then trim and bud

Click to expand...

Apis Labs in Eugene, OR [email protected]

Fadedawg said:

Apis Labs in Eugene, OR [email protected]

Click to expand...

thanks that is where i am actually flying into too

land get the rental head over there and grab 10 gallons ......thanks man save me some time ....my your buds weight bend your branches

KLITE said:

Does it achieve the same dewaxing effect having the material column sorrounded by dry ice and letting solvent sit there as having a dewaxing column where the solven can sit after it has passed through the material?

Click to expand...

I am actually going to usea dual ball valve setup and process it both ways to compare...I asked the same question to best value vacs and he said it would be a partial dewax but all I am trying to acheive is beimg more selective and not catching as much chlorophyll. ...

And to address all the talk over the mystery oil....I have heard a dry run through your closed loop and clean your catch vessel afterwards cleans all that out.... but I did order a few cans of purtane simply because I don't think I need a tank to be blasting qps but will in future if I need it

https://skunkpharmresearch.com/vacuum-distilling-butane/

yep, that's how you can distill your butane before hand.