Should i or shouldn't i ?

Marian madness

New Member
G'day all! New to this, just hoping someone can help out? Just finished my first grow with the old sub cools mix. Grew a couple of gelato auto's with reasonable success. Better than my first few goes with soil and liquid fertilizer. Anyway problem is I'm reammending my s/s and need to know do I need to add more dolomite and epsom salt or will the previous input do?
 

GreenGenez421

Well-Known Member
G'day all! New to this, just hoping someone can help out? Just finished my first grow with the old sub cools mix. Grew a couple of gelato auto's with reasonable success. Better than my first few goes with soil and liquid fertilizer. Anyway problem is I'm reammending my s/s and need to know do I need to add more dolomite and epsom salt or will the previous input do?
Dolomite takes around 24 months to breakdown, depending on the total volume of soil, you may still have sufficient values. Your unlikely to venture into an elaborate testing kit for various elements, but a simple slurry sample tested with litmus paper can show the pH. Since I'm assuming your peat based, your pH will be low if your lime values are lacking.
As far as magnesium sulfate.... I wouldn't add it unless your adding lime. Plus it's always easier to add it in a foliar or drench if you do have a deficiency. It's easy to add, it's much harder to remove. You don't want to flush any formulation of supersoil. Less is more.

Alternatively you can contact your local county extension office for soil testing. Or private companies. Just have to mail a sufficient size sample and pay for the tests you wish to have done. Go with a NPK, Ca/Mg, pH, sodium and organic matter test.
 

Marian madness

New Member
Dolomite takes around 24 months to breakdown, depending on the total volume of soil, you may still have sufficient values. Your unlikely to venture into an elaborate testing kit for various elements, but a simple slurry sample tested with litmus paper can show the pH. Since I'm assuming your peat based, your pH will be low if your lime values are lacking.
As far as magnesium sulfate.... I wouldn't add it unless your adding lime. Plus it's always easier to add it in a foliar or drench if you do have a deficiency. It's easy to add, it's much harder to remove. You don't want to flush any formulation of supersoil. Less is more.

Alternatively you can contact your local county extension office for soil testing. Or private companies. Just have to mail a sufficient size sample and pay for the tests you wish to have done. Go with a NPK, Ca/Mg, pH, sodium and organic matter test.
Thanks for the reply! My base is organic soil mix, coco coir,worm castings and course perlite! I added dolomite,epsom salts and i decided to add a little bit of gypsum. Using 7 gal pots. In aus only have access to basic soils and compost. Just went with organic soil base with no fertilizer added!
 

GreenGenez421

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply! My base is organic soil mix, coco coir,worm castings and course perlite! I added dolomite,epsom salts and i decided to add a little bit of gypsum. Using 7 gal pots. In aus only have access to basic soils and compost. Just went with organic soil base with no fertilizer added!
Your soil doesn't contain any peat? In that event I'd ammend with oyster flour/meal or granular gypsum, dolomite can cause issues with pH in coco dominant organic fed soils. Sounds like your on the right track. If you can get your hands on leaf mold (composted leaf litter) that can add more chelation via humates, and help to release any calcium that has bonded with phosphorus inputs. Continued Recycling helps with this as well.
 

Marian madness

New Member
Your soil doesn't contain any peat? In that event I'd ammend with oyster flour/meal or granular gypsum, dolomite can cause issues with pH in coco dominant organic fed soils. Sounds like your on the right track. If you can get your hands on leaf mold (composted leaf litter) that can add more chelation via humates, and help to release any calcium that has bonded with phosphorus inputs. Continued Recycling helps with this as well.
Thanks again for the reply GG421! Can't get any leaf mold would leonardite (humic acid) do the same job?
 

GreenGenez421

Well-Known Member
Leonardite contain both. It's kinda impossible to have humic acid without fulvic acid and their definition is not clear or even set in science.
I've been under the impression that fulvic has a smaller molecule. But yeah aside from that, they're both of the same. Can't go wrong eitherway.
 

Marian madness

New Member
Fulvic would be better. But yes, any organic acid will help with chelation.
Fulvic acid is obtainable I will
Leonardite contain both. It's kinda impossible to have humic acid without fulvic acid and their definition is not clear or even set in science.
Thanks for your input Wastei! I saw that leonardite has both humic and fulvic when I compared it to the leaf mold GG421 was talking about! I used a small amount of leonardite in the original super soil mix.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
I've been under the impression that fulvic has a smaller molecule. But yeah aside from that, they're both of the same. Can't go wrong eitherway.
I found it harder to use and dose fulvic acid properly running salts. It's probably a better input in organic gardening than mineral salts where minerals are already in ionic form. Fulvic acid can easily cause burns in a salt based grow and leave some minerals more accessible than others if overused.

I get great results with traditional humic/kelp extract and it help combat nutrient excess instead of doing the opposite. I'm not saying fulvic acids are bad or anything I've just found them harder to source and use in practice in a salt based grow.
 

GreenGenez421

Well-Known Member
Leonardite is the better choice if your water only. But if you supplement or need a boost here and there, I'd go with a soluble powder or liquid.
Too much humic and fulvic can actually have negative effects inhibiting mineral accessibility. So in this case less is more.
 

Marian madness

New Member
Leonardite is the better choice if your water only. But if you supplement or need a boost here and there, I'd go with a soluble powder or liquid.
Too much humic and fulvic can actually have negative effects inhibiting mineral accessibility. So in this case less is more.
A full batch of subs s/s was to much for my intended use. I broke down the recipe to make 15 gal only. 2x7 gal pots some left over for maybe a top dress if needed. Leonardite was added to the original mix, I have researched through this site that to reuse this s/s I only need to reammend with 1/3 of ammendments and let cook to use again. Would this be accurate ? I'm growing auto's outdoors and it's intended to be water only! So far so good. Thanks for your input.
 
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