Seedling Discoloration

BOBBYBLUEHAZE

BOBBYBLUEHAZE

Member
Hello Everyone,

I began my first grow earlier this month and sprouted a White Widow auto 6 days ago. I'm growing in a 2x2x5 tent with a Mars Hydro TS-600 LED. I sprouted the seed using the paper towel method and placed it in Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil. I planned to start the seedling in Happy Frog soil but I ran into delivery problems and the Happy Frog soil did not show up until after I had already planted the sprouted seed. I've read that some people have had issues with FFOF soil being too hot for seedlings, and I think this may be my circumstances as well. My light is about 20" away from the seedling and I've been giving her up to 18 hours of light per day. The temperature in the tent has been ~75F during the day and around 70F at night. I used a humidity dome during the first couple of days as the RH has been steady at 30-40%. I'm using a small 6" fan to circulate air inside the tent, and a tower fan to bring in fresh air from outside the tent through the ventilation ports. Watering when the soil 1/2"- 1" beneath the surface is dry until runoff. Started with distilled water but pH'd it at <6 so I switched to my filtered tap water around day 4 which was surprisingly around a pH of 7. Any insightful advice or recommendations are welcome. Thanks everyone.
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Dank Bongula

Dank Bongula

Well-Known Member
Almost damn near same as my setup, only difference really is I have passive intake and am using FFHF in a 1 gal fabric pot....same light, distance too. I lightly water it every 4 or 5 days. Make sure to not overwater
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
FFOF can burn some seedlings “ upfront “ however they WILL acclimate ...... Dumping anything else into the mix just adds to issues.
As far as PH ... forget distilled . It will work with TAP just fine. FFOF chimes in at 6.3 right from bag - so all you have to do is range the water going in to 6.5 - 6.7 .

FFOF is prebuffered and will hold ph rather steady as long as you stay within acceptable range. FFOF can and will feed that plant upfront for at least 4 / 5 weeks ( depending on strain ) before early exhaustion . Then you can do one of two methods to continue.

1. You can do a simple 2 part feed system ( veg / bloom ) liquid or dry fertilizer.
OR
2. Top Dress MORE FFOF to container and simply water it in ........ it’s that simple. This method will require interval dressing during various stages of grow to keep host ( FFOF ) recharged.

FFOF can also be made into a tea ( by means of cheesecloth bag / steeping in aerated water container with a simple aquarium air pump ) to oxygenate it. Then you can do a simple soil drench. There is ZERO REASON TO CHECK RUNOFF with this medium.
If you do , it leaches it and then it becomes unbalanced. Using the same FFOF watered in doesn’t overwhelm plant since it has been acclimated to this soil from the start ....

Many growers overthink this soil and end up nuking plant which excess Nutes dumped on this already ammended mix.
Under certain LED GROWS / Leaf temps will dictate if CALMAG is needed to keep plant up taking Nutes properly. I find that some LED
light systems need grow area to run in upper 80’s to keep plant happy since IR may not be as abundant as with HPS type rigs. Think VPD.

With AUTOFLOWERS this medium can run it to harvest with one or two additional top dressings.
For longer running strains ( photoperiods ) , you “ may “ have to do some extra bloom nute fertilizer. I do simple KELP in water to aid bloom.

FFOF MODS :
Add more perlite ... rice hulls .... or pumice for aeration / drainage.
Add EWC ( earth worm castings ) at about 10% of container volume.
Add MYCO ... Great white / recharge / extreme gardening MYKOS or desired brand.

GL with your grow.
 
G

Green Refuge

Well-Known Member
I sprouted a couple seeds straight in FFOF with no problem whatsoever with it being "hot". I just popped a few more directly in FFOF so we'll see how it goes this time.
 
G

Green Refuge

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
FFOF can burn some seedlings “ upfront “ however they WILL acclimate ...... Dumping anything else into the mix just adds to issues.
As far as PH ... forget distilled . It will work with TAP just fine. FFOF chimes in at 6.3 right from bag - so all you have to do is range the water going in to 6.5 - 6.7 .

FFOF is prebuffered and will hold ph rather steady as long as you stay within acceptable range. FFOF can and will feed that plant upfront for at least 4 / 5 weeks ( depending on strain ) before early exhaustion . Then you can do one of two methods to continue.

1. You can do a simple 2 part feed system ( veg / bloom ) liquid or dry fertilizer.
OR
2. Top Dress MORE FFOF to container and simply water it in ........ it’s that simple. This method will require interval dressing during various stages of grow to keep host ( FFOF ) recharged.

FFOF can also be made into a tea ( by means of cheesecloth bag / steeping in aerated water container with a simple aquarium air pump ) to oxygenate it. Then you can do a simple soil drench. There is ZERO REASON TO CHECK RUNOFF with this medium.
If you do , it leaches it and then it becomes unbalanced. Using the same FFOF watered in doesn’t overwhelm plant since it has been acclimated to this soil from the start ....

Many growers overthink this soil and end up nuking plant which excess Nutes dumped on this already ammended mix.
Under certain LED GROWS / Leaf temps will dictate if CALMAG is needed to keep plant up taking Nutes properly. I find that some LED
light systems need grow area to run in upper 80’s to keep plant happy since IR may not be as abundant as with HPS type rigs. Think VPD.

With AUTOFLOWERS this medium can run it to harvest with one or two additional top dressings.
For longer running strains ( photoperiods ) , you “ may “ have to do some extra bloom nute fertilizer. I do simple KELP in water to aid bloom.

FFOF MODS :
Add more perlite ... rice hulls .... or pumice for aeration / drainage.
Add EWC ( earth worm castings ) at about 10% of container volume.
Add MYCO ... Great white / recharge / extreme gardening MYKOS or desired brand.

GL with your grow.
Click to expand...
What kind of calmag do you use in organic grow ?
 
Rdubz

Rdubz

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
FFOF can burn some seedlings “ upfront “ however they WILL acclimate ...... Dumping anything else into the mix just adds to issues.
As far as PH ... forget distilled . It will work with TAP just fine. FFOF chimes in at 6.3 right from bag - so all you have to do is range the water going in to 6.5 - 6.7 .

FFOF is prebuffered and will hold ph rather steady as long as you stay within acceptable range. FFOF can and will feed that plant upfront for at least 4 / 5 weeks ( depending on strain ) before early exhaustion . Then you can do one of two methods to continue.

1. You can do a simple 2 part feed system ( veg / bloom ) liquid or dry fertilizer.
OR
2. Top Dress MORE FFOF to container and simply water it in ........ it’s that simple. This method will require interval dressing during various stages of grow to keep host ( FFOF ) recharged.

FFOF can also be made into a tea ( by means of cheesecloth bag / steeping in aerated water container with a simple aquarium air pump ) to oxygenate it. Then you can do a simple soil drench. There is ZERO REASON TO CHECK RUNOFF with this medium.
If you do , it leaches it and then it becomes unbalanced. Using the same FFOF watered in doesn’t overwhelm plant since it has been acclimated to this soil from the start ....

Many growers overthink this soil and end up nuking plant which excess Nutes dumped on this already ammended mix.
Under certain LED GROWS / Leaf temps will dictate if CALMAG is needed to keep plant up taking Nutes properly. I find that some LED
light systems need grow area to run in upper 80’s to keep plant happy since IR may not be as abundant as with HPS type rigs. Think VPD.

With AUTOFLOWERS this medium can run it to harvest with one or two additional top dressings.
For longer running strains ( photoperiods ) , you “ may “ have to do some extra bloom nute fertilizer. I do simple KELP in water to aid bloom.

FFOF MODS :
Add more perlite ... rice hulls .... or pumice for aeration / drainage.
Add EWC ( earth worm castings ) at about 10% of container volume.
Add MYCO ... Great white / recharge / extreme gardening MYKOS or desired brand.

GL with your grow.
Click to expand...
Bravo! U just broke down every possible outcome nice post!
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Rdubz said:
Bravo! U just broke down every possible outcome nice post!
Click to expand...
Most of the problem with FFOF use is that many growers just don’t let it do its job by itself . Apparently i hear that there might be regional differences in mix ( good and bad ) - product sources / even pest . Some guys screen it , some mix it in 50/50 blends with mild potting soil ...... etc.

Many will reuse it over and over again with new soil.
I tend to use FFOF that i made a tea with as germination soil ( solo cup ) since that has become slightly leached ( and now less HOT ) . Then as seedlings grow in it easier , i just transplant it as ready prepped plug..... less waste. As shown in pic.

67BD07C5-0F08-412E-81D1-FC38565A58D6.jpeg
8D520F87-AC60-40D5-B3BC-9119D6ADD9E5.jpeg
 
BOBBYBLUEHAZE

BOBBYBLUEHAZE

Member
anexgrower said:
It looks like it needs a little more light maybe... do you have it on dim?
Click to expand...
The attached photos were taken under natural afternoon light in an attempt to provide an accurate visual of what I've got going on. I have her in the tent underneath an LED at all other times, but the model I have doesn't have a dimmer setting, so I just raise and lower it as needed. I have it at about 20" above, it was originally at 28" until I noticed the seedling stretching excessively. I appreciate the insight, thank you.
 
BOBBYBLUEHAZE

BOBBYBLUEHAZE

Member
Dank Bongula said:
Almost damn near same as my setup, only difference really is I have passive intake and am using FFHF in a 1 gal fabric pot....same light, distance too. I lightly water it every 4 or 5 days. Make sure to not overwater
Click to expand...
Haha I'm glad to see someone with a similar setup! Thanks for the tip on watering, I've been trying my best to avoid this simple mistake as best I can.
 
BOBBYBLUEHAZE

BOBBYBLUEHAZE

Member
Budzbuddha said:
FFOF can burn some seedlings “ upfront “ however they WILL acclimate ...... Dumping anything else into the mix just adds to issues.
As far as PH ... forget distilled . It will work with TAP just fine. FFOF chimes in at 6.3 right from bag - so all you have to do is range the water going in to 6.5 - 6.7 .

FFOF is prebuffered and will hold ph rather steady as long as you stay within acceptable range. FFOF can and will feed that plant upfront for at least 4 / 5 weeks ( depending on strain ) before early exhaustion . Then you can do one of two methods to continue.

1. You can do a simple 2 part feed system ( veg / bloom ) liquid or dry fertilizer.
OR
2. Top Dress MORE FFOF to container and simply water it in ........ it’s that simple. This method will require interval dressing during various stages of grow to keep host ( FFOF ) recharged.

FFOF can also be made into a tea ( by means of cheesecloth bag / steeping in aerated water container with a simple aquarium air pump ) to oxygenate it. Then you can do a simple soil drench. There is ZERO REASON TO CHECK RUNOFF with this medium.
If you do , it leaches it and then it becomes unbalanced. Using the same FFOF watered in doesn’t overwhelm plant since it has been acclimated to this soil from the start ....

Many growers overthink this soil and end up nuking plant which excess Nutes dumped on this already ammended mix.
Under certain LED GROWS / Leaf temps will dictate if CALMAG is needed to keep plant up taking Nutes properly. I find that some LED
light systems need grow area to run in upper 80’s to keep plant happy since IR may not be as abundant as with HPS type rigs. Think VPD.

With AUTOFLOWERS this medium can run it to harvest with one or two additional top dressings.
For longer running strains ( photoperiods ) , you “ may “ have to do some extra bloom nute fertilizer. I do simple KELP in water to aid bloom.

FFOF MODS :
Add more perlite ... rice hulls .... or pumice for aeration / drainage.
Add EWC ( earth worm castings ) at about 10% of container volume.
Add MYCO ... Great white / recharge / extreme gardening MYKOS or desired brand.

GL with your grow.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the thorough and detailed insight, thank you. I'll make sure to refer to this for future use.
 
Dank Bongula

Dank Bongula

Well-Known Member
BOBBYBLUEHAZE said:
Haha I'm glad to see someone with a similar setup! Thanks for the tip on watering, I've been trying my best to avoid this simple mistake as best I can.
Click to expand...
You may want to transplant into final pot size very soon (if different from current container) as well, shortly before lights out, to avoid potential plant stress that can stunt growth. You may still stress it out, but it is still small enough that you could possibly avoid it this time. When/if you drop new autos, plant them directly in 1 or 3 gal pots.
 
BOBBYBLUEHAZE

BOBBYBLUEHAZE

Member
Dank Bongula said:
You may want to transplant into final pot size very soon (if different from current container) as well, shortly before lights out, to avoid potential plant stress that can stunt growth. You may still stress it out, but it is still small enough that you could possibly avoid it this time. When/if you drop new autos, plant them directly in 1 or 3 gal pots.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up, I've got some 3 gallon fabric pots on their way via UPS and they should arrive by Wednesday. I'll have to wait until then to transplant but I'll keep your advice in mind for the next time I drop new autos. I appreciate it!
 
G

Green Refuge

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
This .... or calimagic . Ffof has oyster shell . Even “ Down to Earth “ boxed mineral ( oyster shell ) .
But i am sure others would do too.
View attachment 4826947
Click to expand...
Yeah I was gonna get it the other day but the Amazon reviews say it's not really organic or suitable for organic grows. The bottle says not for organics in California.

Not sure if it's true but Someone told me non organic calmag kills beneficial bacteria in soil so I'm trying get a true organic calmag just to be on safe side. This looks alright

 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Green Refuge said:
Yeah I was gonna get it the other day but the Amazon reviews say it's not really organic or suitable for organic grows. The bottle says not for organics in California.

Not sure if it's true but Someone told me non organic calmag kills beneficial bacteria in soil so I'm trying get a true organic calmag just to be on safe side. This looks alright

Click to expand...
“ Down to earth “ single mineral box - oyster shell is OMRI rated organic.

Local nurseries tend to carry this line but it can be ordered online.
 
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