Recipi any good in here ?

Recipie 360litre 12cu f

Peat 1/3. 120litre
Lava 1/3. 120litre
Ewc 1/3 120litre

Addition top mulch 30litre sheep wool/poo comfrey compost (worms love it and stops top layer drying out full of ca) I’m waiting on na analysis.before adding after advice from many like tom hill on na filled soils.



soil recipie says add for every 1.5cu f . I have 12 so this list is added 8 times
Npk

1c Alfalfa pellet 2-1-2 (2% ca)
1c kelp meal 1-0-4 (1% ca)
1c blood meal 12-0-0
1c bone meal 3-18-0. (12% ca)
1/2c bat guano guano 1-10-1. (5% ca. mg )
2tbsp sulphate of potash 0-0-24 (25%k 10%mg 27%s) check bottom



Minerals
1/4c azomite
1/4c remin rock dust

Calcium main
1/3c dolomite*
1/3c gypsum*
2/3c oyster shell flour*


The nutrient company
Bactor13 bacteria
Mycormax mycrohiza
Tricorp5 fungi n trich

All contain humic acids and kelps too so I will reduce my kelp when I add this 1c:1/2c





My bone meal I can get has a different score to others. Like 2-14-0 while mines 3.5-18-0 …. like most amendments my npks scores are slightly different to what others buys ? Guessing as organic it Varys slightly dependent on what it’s eaten etc



Closest sul po mg I find in uk is this and it seems the same as langbeinite but is white powdery stuff?? Is this acceptable ?
Does this need adding later ? Or mix in start as it bumps k up a lot


Hoping to be water only like many are and Logan test at the end of the cycle each time
And don’t want been due to Aza concerns

Is there a reason why you are adding organic material in higher doses than the minerals?

I generally have the opposite approach, i am doing double the amount of minerals than I am organic materials. So per 7.5gallon soil I do 4cups minerals and 2cups organic materials. This is just what I learnt from BuildaSoil so I am interested in your views on this?

What I have started doing and if you are not doing this yet, which it seems like you are, is my own vermicomposting. I am creating a worm diet using dynamic accumulators (comfrey, nettle, dandelions etc) and then using those castings in my soil. Its still in the starting up phase but it seems to already be having a really good impact on my grows.

The thinking is that the vermicompost is made from the same materials that go into the soil as a raw product. Ovbviously not the minerals but any organic material the soil gets, the worms get to.

One thing I do move away from way Bloodmeal. I just prefer soyabean meal instead.

Do you use any tyoe if anthropod in your mix?

Other than that bro looks like a recipe for success. I might start with a slightly smaller mix at the beggining, like 70% of your total and then add the 30% as a top dress just to get a nice top layer of activity going.

I always run 1-1-1 lava ewc and peat
There my main fuels
The meals and additions are adding diversity in selections while keeping ca high
To be honest I could ditch the meals this round and add them after a soil test end of grow , but I don’t see a lot of harm either filling up as long as ca is high enough it shouldn’t be a problem raising k
I don’t use soy as I am anti soy even on my chickens it has estrogen and is the biggest gmo crop so I Steer clear personal choice

I looked at frass if that’s what you mean but with study’s showing salinity and sometimes stunted growth I am not educated enough to add any as of yet but I do want to

What do you mean by organic material though ?
I learnt build a soil to be a market shill whobaught recipies n fucked em to their advantage they have good info but some I found not right and some big wigs on icmag rant about them

Do you top dress during your run or is this enough material to get you through to the end of the cycle?

I will am going to do my next run using bloodmeal to see if there is a difference if I take out the soybean meal.

I cant say exactly if the Insect Frass has been a big win for me, since I have included it in my recipe, I have seen an improvement in plant health but I also have changed the recipe in other ways as well so I guess I will have to wait and see once I have done a few runs with what I am using at the moment.

Do you add a mulch layer?

So in regards to my question, you are using 4.5 cups of organic material per 360l of soil and roughly only 2cups of Minerals. So the BuildaSoil way would be the other way around. So they will use 4cups of minerals per 7.5gall container and only 1.5cups of organic materials (meals etc). I am just curious where you got your ratios from? Purely curious.

I hear what you are saying about BuildaSoil, I think that there is always going to be positive and negatives about anything in this industry. I am not buying their products but I am using their process and to be fair, its been the most informative. I take take it as THE WAY but I do use it as a starting point, hence this conversation and my engagement with the forums. Like everything in this world, got to filter through what's available and decide for yourself.

Reap911 said:

Do you top dress during your run or is this enough material to get you through to the end of the cycle?

I will am going to do my next run using bloodmeal to see if there is a difference if I take out the soybean meal.

I cant say exactly if the Insect Frass has been a big win for me, since I have included it in my recipe, I have seen an improvement in plant health but I also have changed the recipe in other ways as well so I guess I will have to wait and see once I have done a few runs with what I am using at the moment.

Do you add a mulch layer?

So in regards to my question, you are using 4.5 cups of organic material per 360l of soil and roughly only 2cups of Minerals. So the BuildaSoil way would be the other way around. So they will use 4cups of minerals per 7.5gall container and only 1.5cups of organic materials (meals etc). I am just curious where you got your ratios from? Purely curious.

I hear what you are saying about BuildaSoil, I think that there is always going to be positive and negatives about anything in this industry. I am not buying their products but I am using their process and to be fair, its been the most informative. I take take it as THE WAY but I do use it as a starting point, hence this conversation and my engagement with the forums. Like everything in this world, got to filter through what's available and decide for yourself.

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Did ya miss where is states the ratio is added 8 times ? So the alfalfa is 8cups alone lol
the ratio is every 1.5cube ft and I’m 12cu ft at 360l

Although the damn ewc would carry it alone
These will break don’t for the next cycle

i topmulchand add hemp chips inoculated with fungi and then plant cover crops
Diakon radish for organic tunnels
Carrots for mo
Clover and vetch
Chamomile good mulch and terps
Chia seeds for copper
Oats rye wheats etc for mycor and good chop
Grow it all till 3 week to harvest chop and drop where it is
By the time next round comes this will be digesting by the worms
It pulls the nutes from the base to the top in a cycle instead of eroding away
The rooots hold the soil well and form good paths for worms
Also alfalfa as it’s npk and hormones but roots go deep and borrage or comfrey as it accumulates all minerals to the surface