REAL QUICK! just need an opinion about temps

So anyone who has grown can probably answer this for me.. .I have only grown outdoors so I have no idea what to expect for heating and cooling indoors.

How many degrees in F will the lights bump up the temp in a room. The room is about 70 square ft. I'm going to use T5 HO for veg. and prob HPS for flower.. maybe I'll just use a different color spectrum on the t5ho for veg and flower, we'll see..

I'm going to be pumping in outside air through an intake fan, at winter maybe 40 degrees F. will the lights heat the room back up? quickly? the quicker the better. I just don't want to be pumping in 40 degree air and then circulating it and it taking an hour to heat the room back up... the plants will freak out from the odd temps.

Thanks a bunch.

Don't blow air in. Blow air out from the top and leave a passive intake (hole) at the opposite end near the floor, cool air will flow in.
How much the temps will rise depends on how many watts of each light you use. The heat output from t5s is pretty small as I understand it. A hps will raise the temps between about 5-25 degrees dependent on it's size and whether or not the bulb is vented.
I don't think the t5s alone will be enough to keep the temps above 65f (consider that the hps will only be running 12 hours a day), you should get a small portable room heater (1-2kw) and hook it up to a thermostat so that it turns on when the temps drop to 65, a range of 1-2 degrees on the 'stat should be fine.
I'd also run the fan on either a thermostat or a timer, so it runs for 15mins every hour or when the temps get to 78ish. You could also set it to come on whenever the hps is on if necessary to cool the light and allow it to be closer to the plants.

Hairy Bob said:

Don't blow air in. Blow air out from the top and leave a passive intake (hole) at the opposite end near the floor, cool air will flow in.
How much the temps will rise depends on how many watts of each light you use. The heat output from t5s is pretty small as I understand it. A hps will raise the temps between about 5-25 degrees dependent on it's size and whether or not the bulb is vented.
I don't think the t5s alone will be enough to keep the temps above 65f (consider that the hps will only be running 12 hours a day), you should get a small portable room heater (1-2kw) and hook it up to a thermostat so that it turns on when the temps drop to 65, a range of 1-2 degrees on the 'stat should be fine.
I'd also run the fan on either a thermostat or a timer, so it runs for 15mins every hour or when the temps get to 78ish. You could also set it to come on whenever the hps is on if necessary to cool the light and allow it to be closer to the plants.

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I like the idea of a temperature control swithc, I'm trying to find some right now, you got any recommendations?

i can't have an intake and exhaust at opposite ends. There is two wndows in the whole room. both right next to each other... and one is just going to be covered up to block light.

So I was thinking getting a window mounted hvac to go along with my intake fan. the intake fan would suck in air...wouldn't matter what the temp is cuz the hvac would regulate it. Just means that I will have to drop 500 bucks on an hvac that heats and cools instead of 100 on just a coolling one. I was hoping I could use the intake fan on a temp control switch to cool it down. cuz then it doesn't bring the temp of the rom down to 40 degrees just because the air is 40. It's like how air conditioners pump out temps of around 65...but they cool from like 90 to 80...

So wouldnt' that work?

I am not worried about an exhaust...as far as I understand the only reason I would need an exhaust is to ventillate out the smell... I like the smell

If you don't have an exhaust, the air you blow in will have nowhere to go. Ventilation isn't about pumping more air in, it's about blowing it out and allowing fresh air to flow in.
An intake fan is a waste of time unless you have a truly vast space, let me explain. If there is no exhaust, the pressure in the room will increase, and air will leak out of all the cracks and gaps around the room and do a pretty good job of advertising what you're up to in there. In addition, the increase in pressure will raise the temperature, which is precisely the opposite effect that ventilation is supposed to achieve.
As well as those two reasons, the better sealed your room is, the harder the fan would have to work to keep blowing air into the ever-increasing pressure, causing it to wear faster and move less air.
If you won't take my word for it, check the growfaq here https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=228 .
There is absolutely no need to spend $500 just to heat your room, you are overthinking this I'm afraid. All you need is one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parasene-Frost-Fighter-Greenhouse-Heater/dp/B000XM54SS/ref=sr_1_22/279-1268434-1666705?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1248297162&sr=1-22 in front of a passive intake, wired into a common household heating thermostat (I prefer the digital ones, like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DIGITAL-PROGRAMMABLE-ROOM-CENTRAL-HEATING-THERMOSTAT_W0QQitemZ190314146067QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air?hash=item2c4f9b6913&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1686|293:1|294:50 ) but a simple dial type would probably suffice if funds are low.

Hairy Bob said:

If you don't have an exhaust, the air you blow in will have nowhere to go. Ventilation isn't about pumping more air in, it's about blowing it out and allowing fresh air to flow in.
An intake fan is a waste of time unless you have a truly vast space, let me explain. If there is no exhaust, the pressure in the room will increase, and air will leak out of all the cracks and gaps around the room and do a pretty good job of advertising what you're up to in there. In addition, the increase in pressure will raise the temperature, which is precisely the opposite effect that ventilation is supposed to achieve.
As well as those two reasons, the better sealed your room is, the harder the fan would have to work to keep blowing air into the ever-increasing pressure, causing it to wear faster and move less air.
If you won't take my word for it, check the growfaq here https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=228 .
There is absolutely no need to spend $500 just to heat your room, you are overthinking this I'm afraid. All you need is one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parasene-Frost-Fighter-Greenhouse-Heater/dp/B000XM54SS/ref=sr_1_22/279-1268434-1666705?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1248297162&sr=1-22 in front of a passive intake, wired into a common household heating thermostat (I prefer the digital ones, like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DIGITAL-PROGRAMMABLE-ROOM-CENTRAL-HEATING-THERMOSTAT_W0QQitemZ190314146067QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air?hash=item2c4f9b6913&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1686|293:1|294:50 ) but a simple dial type would probably suffice if funds are low.

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ok ok ok ok ...sounded good... happy i asked.. so don't want pressure build up... i dont' care about smell, i love the smell. but still dont' want pressure..

SO im trying to wrap my mind around what you're saying here.

Get that little heater, that seems like a great cheap one. hook it up that thermostat...set the temp on the thermastat and it will kick on that heater when need be. when you say put it in front of a passive intake? what do you mean?

You were saying if I have an exhaust whole up top and just a hole on the bottom opposite end air will naturally flow in.

So I should hook up an exhaust fan and blow the air out.... if i were to cover up that window with plywood....cut two holes in it... one on top and one on bottom. the one on top is for the exhaust.. .and the hole on the bottom is just put like a dust screen on it or something.... and air will naturally flow into the room...is that what you meant by passive?

Ok so that will be great for the winter time...sounds perfect if im understanding... and by no means to I n ot take your word for it i can already tell you know what you're talking about.

But in the summer..... that hole at the bottom will be passively taking in 100 plus degree air... so I need an air conditioning system.

so maybe in the summer i could just take out that plywood and that whole set up and put in a new piece of plywood with a window mounted HVAC COOLING ONLY and that will work as my exhaust, and still have that hole on the bottom to take in the air passively, but no heater in front of it, fans circulate it around and then the hvac kicks on and cools the temps while exhausting.

THANKS BRO!! you got any questions, I feel like I should def. be helping you out a bit too. try me on for size if you got any thoughts brainstormin yourself, I know a lot about botany and horticulture, and been very VERY successful with some outdoor grows.

Appreciated.

A passive intake just means somewhere that air can freely flow through, usually with a light trap so that light cannot escape or enter and disturb your flowering cycle, essentially a hole. A simple light trap is a short piece of flexible ducting, bent around 90-180 degrees, as much as is needed to stop light getting through.
Ideally you would run ducting from the window to either end of the room, with intake and exhaust at opposite end to create airflow from one end of the room to the other, otherwise much of the air coming through the intake will be sucked straight out of the exhaust.
If it gets to 100 degrees in the summer then you definitely need ac, your idea of exchangeable plywood boards is a good one, should work well.
I do have a question, since you asked. What is the best way you have found of trimming/training your plants to increase yield? I'm currently running my grow op as a series of experiments to try out topping, lollipopping, supercropping, lst and fimming. Do you have any experience with any of these techniques or any others I may have overlooked? Any tips you can think of would be appreciated.

Hairy Bob said:

A passive intake just means somewhere that air can freely flow through, usually with a light trap so that light cannot escape or enter and disturb your flowering cycle, essentially a hole. A simple light trap is a short piece of flexible ducting, bent around 90-180 degrees, as much as is needed to stop light getting through.
Ideally you would run ducting from the window to either end of the room, with intake and exhaust at opposite end to create airflow from one end of the room to the other, otherwise much of the air coming through the intake will be sucked straight out of the exhaust.
If it gets to 100 degrees in the summer then you definitely need ac, your idea of exchangeable plywood boards is a good one, should work well.
I do have a question, since you asked. What is the best way you have found of trimming/training your plants to increase yield? I'm currently running my grow op as a series of experiments to try out topping, lollipopping, supercropping, lst and fimming. Do you have any experience with any of these techniques or any others I may have overlooked? Any tips you can think of would be appreciated.

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I've tried them all... they all work and space is a huge factor.

I always prefer to tie down before cutting my plant...i know it turns into two colas...but why stress it if you dont' need to... and with all my experiences i have increased my yield just as much if not more through other methods..

I would for sure recommend LST. It's what has always worked best for me, but I have the space to do it. There is this OMG amazing description of this guy doing it that i adopted and it has been the best method yet.

you tie them down when they are about two to three leaf sets tall... tie them down so now they make a 90 degree bend. loop your string around the top of the plant and then pull it down. you know how it will start to grow up again...well then once another leaf set or two shows up...tie it down... and just keep tieing down tieing down tieing down...and run them in a spiral. It opens up SOOOO Much light to the plants it's not even funny... its like instead of having the one big bud on top and your side buds...they get like big buds... cuz once they're tied down and bent sideways for a day or two...when they start to grow up they are growing up and getting as much light as a normal top bud would...so they get big like a normal top bud would...

But this makes your base a lot wider, and you're smart so you can figure out how much you want to tie down and how many spirals wide you can go before you just have to let it grow upwards... but for sure LST is the bset... i would never recommend cutting.... supercropping before topping, but lst before you supercrop... ya suppercroppping strengthens your stems...and i've never grown indoors and i hear stronger stems is a concern...outdoors they are always strong enough...so i don't want to stress them just to get stronger. but indoors you may need to do so.

and what you can also do is once your doing the lst method... and you got some horizontal branches sticking out... the leaf sets all along that stem will start to grow tall over a few weeks...super crop those ones...not the fan leaves obvioiusly.

i hear uvb can increase thc potency... the trichomes are produced on a mj plant stricly for protection from being attacked... they produce the trichomes so that they can have a better chance of surviving until they drop their seeds so they can reproduce... there aren't too many methods out there that work for increasing thc potency...espically when out of all 65 somethign cannabinoids found in mj...we only know about thc... so.... but im going to try to maybe throw some uvb into the mixture after i have a couple crops in so i know its a controlled study.

http://forum.grasscity.com/absolute-beginners/122936-how-lst-low-stress-training.html

There it is...after i read that i did it the next year outdoors...never had such high yields per plant...so healthy still too...didn't even look like a stressed plant

I've seen that exact guide posted on here before, it's a good one and it's the method I'm using, well, starting to use anyway. The plant I intend to train just went into it's final pot two days ago, it's at the 5th stage of that guide.
I do all my experiments side by side, try to pick out 2 almost identical clones, then train/fuck around with one, and leave the other to do as it pleases, then compare yield at the end. I was concerned about the extra veg time with lst, but the first 2 weeks under the hps the plants still grow like the clappers, so I reckon I can train it most, if not all the way around the pot by the time it properly settles into flowering (that's a week of veg in a small pot, then a week in the big one, then two weeks or so of growth under hps, growing on average just less than an inch per day, think it'll work?).
Uvb is the next on my list but I'm not sure how I would make it a fair test to compare with a plant grown without, as I only have one flower room. I guess putting the lamp on one side of the room near the plants I want to test it on, then the control plants at the other side would work, but it doesn't really fulfil the criteria of a far test in my book, as surely there would be some uvb getting to the other side of the room, however little. Maybe I'm the one overthinking things now?
Good luck to you, may all your grows go well.

oh yeah you'll be good. keep your conditions premo and it'll make it around the pot no worries.

Ya that is a much better way to do a controlled test... doing it with the same crop.

But maybe with uvb just try it with one crop and do your absolute best to keep conditions exactly the same for your next crop except for the addition of uvb this time around.

P.S. I so another post you were having with someone about our convo we've been having...very similar... it was with this guy bam bam... I asked another question for you if you wouldn't mind popping in and answering.https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/201551-fresh-air-intake-air-con.html

good luck to you as well..

are you all legal, what state are you in? Right now I am providing mj to dispensaries to provide to registered patients in the state... ALL LEGAL! I'm always happy to help out a fellow grower if he's interested in keeping his name and his bud off of the black market.

If you're already doing this, I just always recommend that you work with dispensaries that have a sellers permit through the BOE and they are 1099ing you so that if it does ever get to the point where you're going to court... you will for sure have the media on your back... If you're paying your taxes on all your profit..and then they're still trying to lock you up...it would be a frenzy!!!

I'm across the pond from you, in England. No medi laws over here, I'm afraid, so only me and a couple of other people who grow that I have known long enough to truly trust know about it.
The idea about uvb may have to wait until I get consistent results from my setup, and once I figure out which training method I prefer, then I can be certain whether it's making a difference or not.