Probe placement

Flowki

Well-Known Member
I'm revisiting the basics of air circulation, I strangely couldn't find any specific thread on probe placements, perhaps I made the wrong searches. Anyway, hopefully some of this is useful to others, however I do have some questions myself.

I figured what is the point in trying to learn better placements if the calibration of the units are inaccurate?. To test this I purchased a laboratory grade mercury thermometer (they sound flashy but are surprisingly cheap). I also purchased some 65% humidity bovida packs.

Only one of the digital read outs was accurate according to the laboratory thermometer. Weather or not the lab mercury thermometer is 100% accurate I do not know.. but it should be far more consistent over time as a steady bench mark to check the digital therm read outs are accurate within 2%. To test this was easy, place all units close together in a room/box with a steady temperature and wait 5-10 min. However, you should suspend the lab therm in the air so it doesn't give a false reading from surface contact. It is much easier if you have hygrometers or probes that have a calibration function, just calibrate them to the lab thermometer. If they do not have this function you can write a note on the units and add/take away the difference mentally for actual rad outs. My thermometers didn't drift that far, however one was 3F out. That may not be the case with everyone, it's worth checking as it could be worse for you. The quality of goods on amazon and ebay really seems to be dropping sharply, don't trust anything to be high quality and accurate out of the box, spending more doesn't mean quality these days. Ignore 5 star reviews, read the 3 star reviews for a more realistic idea of product quality (general tip).

For the humidity read out calibration place a bovida pack in a small air tight tub. A zip bag could be used but I found that they don't hold shape well enough to allow the humidity to properly stabilise, or they just aren't that air tight?. A small see through tub was much better, especailly if you are using a probe-less hygrometer so that you can see the read out inside the tub. If you have a wired probe I do recommend you take the effort to cut a small access hole on the top of the tub to allow the wire to sit just under the lid seal. You will have to seal this with tape or bluetac. It would be tempting to just put a normal hygrometer in the tub and use that to calibrate the probed hygrometer. This isn't a good idea though, the probe-less hygrometers tend to be of cheaper quality and seem to have a much wider ''inherent'' inaccuracy range. In other words the more expensive wire probe units seem to have less natural error range so calibrating it personally will be more accurate by a few%. In the end, two of the units needed calibrating by 3>8%. Surprisingly, one of the oldest ones I had was accurate, while one of the newest ones was not. Most certainly worth testing since I've seen people complain they were out as much as 15%.

So that's the end of the part where it looks like I know my shit.

For the most part I followed basic advice on RIU in terms of placements and then just forgot about them. The temp probe is center space just below top leaves to block any radiant heat. This was older advice for HPS however I now use cobs. I'm not sure if it is still required to do that with cobs/led?. I also remove a few leaves around the probe so that it is in shade from above but not in contact with anything around or below. Again it might just be ocd but I figured surfaces of any kind could increase/reduce read outs. On the left side of the space, just under canopy level I have a suspended hygrometer. On the right side also is the same. All tend to give similar temp read outs so I feel happy with that.. although I don't know if the placements themselves are still ''ok'' for cob/led, or if I am just following old hps philosophy. I also have the laboritory thermometer suspended in the room, it is above canopy hight but not in light range or direct air circulation. It reads about 4-5f higher than the other read outs but that seems about right given it's location, do suggest otherwise if not.

The humidity probe is placed next to the temp probe, centre canopy, but I have it just peaking above canopy. I have an under canopy extraction setup that sends lower humid air into the direction of the De-huey. The de-huey is sitting under a tower fan. The under canopy humid air and dry de-huey air basically gets mixed and pulled through the tower fan, then pushed over the canopy. The humidity probe then receives some of that mixed air to check if it's in range. The far left and far right hygrometers that are just under canopy tend to read up to 5% lower humidity than the center canopy rh probe. That makes sense given the locations/under canopy airflow but again, doesn't mean it's over all a good placement. I do wonder if it creates a kinda closed loop of the de-huey fighting respiration rates? or something like that.
 
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Your probe should be about a foot from the wall and avoid corners.

To calibrate a rh% mix salt and distilled water into a paste using a cup, put the cup and hygrometer into a zip lock bag and leave it for a few hours even overnight at 25c/77f after a few hours the rh% should read 75%.
If it doesn't you need to add or subtract the amount of drift.
So if it reads 50% you add 25 if it reads 90 you take 15 points away.
Hth some folks.
 
Your probe should be about a foot from the wall and avoid corners.

To calibrate a rh% mix salt and distilled water into a paste using a cup, put the cup and hygrometer into a zip lock bag and leave it for a few hours even overnight at 25c/77f after a few hours the rh% should read 75%.
If it doesn't you need to add or subtract the amount of drift.
So if it reads 50% you add 25 if it reads 90 you take 15 points away.
Hth some folks.

What probe, what wall, below or above cob/led canopy?.

Many people said the salt test isn't always accurate and after some research I tend to agree. Different types of salts stabilise at different RH levels and it also depends on how much salt/water used along with possible contaminants. A bovida pack costs about $3 so at that price I didn't see the point in risking it.
 
What probe, what wall, below or above cob/led canopy?.

Many people said the salt test isn't always accurate and after some research I tend to agree. Different types of salts stabilise at different RH levels and it also depends on how much salt/water used along with possible contaminants. A bovida pack costs about $3 so at that price I didn't see the point in risking it.
I would agree with on that one tbh I'm not familiar with bovida packs but at $3 I'll look into them, i recall them being used for curing.
Salt might not be 100% but if its 98% it's a good start, it gives you an idea of where you are.

That aside my probe is at canopy height sitting 2ft from the back wall and 1ft from the side wall where the ocilating fan will blow air over the shade.
 
I would agree with on that one tbh I'm not familiar with bovida packs but at $3 I'll look into them, i recall them being used for curing.
Salt might not be 100% but if its 98% it's a good start, it gives you an idea of where you are.

That aside my probe is at canopy height sitting 2ft from the back wall and 1ft from the side wall where the ocilating fan will blow air over the shade.

Yeah the salt thing is better than nothing I guess but at $3 a pack it just seems like the ideal option. You are talking about temp or humidity probe?.
 
Yeah the salt thing is better than nothing I guess but at $3 a pack it just seems like the ideal option. You are talking about temp or humidity probe?.
Both temp and humidity sensors are at canopy level I also monitor under it on the pot lids.
 
Ahh I see. Just out of curiosity what temps and rh do you run?.
20/26c 50/54% rh over 24hrs
Under the canopy 20/24c.

I've wired pre set taps from my variac + variable through a relay so it switches between idling/pre set speed to the variable speed which is altered to suit the season, all in its around £100 to make one.
 
20/26c 50/54% rh over 24hrs
Under the canopy 20/24c.

I've wired pre set taps from my variac + variable through a relay so it switches between idling/pre set speed to the variable speed which is altered to suit the season, all in its around £100 to make one.

How do you do with mold or pm issues?. I've read a few posts around here suggesting the swing in day/night temp/rh is related to mold/pm development. Rather than what I originally though, it being related to high humidity alone. Then again, the C is a big drop but 54>50%rh isn't really a swing so this is probably a pointless question to you.
 
How do you do with mold or pm issues?. I've read a few posts around here suggest sting the swing in day/night temp/rh is related to mold/pm development. Rather than what I originally though, it being related to high humidity alone. Then again, the C is a big drop but 54>50%rh isn't really a swing so this is probably a pointless question to you.
I've had the odd bit of bud rott over the years but only ever isolated buds.
When I 1st started growing my set up was less than stellar, cold night temps and high rh% typical UK 60/80% and never had any trouble?
Apparently some strains are Lees susceptible to botrytis, i know that's counterintuitive but it is the case?
20/21c during the dark is ideal I think I don't regard it as a big swing.
 
I've had the odd bit of bud rott over the years but only ever isolated buds.
When I 1st started growing my set up was less than stellar, cold night temps and high rh% typical UK 60/80% and never had any trouble?
Apparently some strains are Lees susceptible to botrytis, i know that's counterintuitive but it is the case?
20/21c during the dark is ideal I think I don't regard it as a big swing.

Yeah I am also with similar experience, it's always small isolated spots.

At first I thought it was poor air circulation, since I read that a lot, but I seen a small outbreak in a part that had the most optimal position of circulation (that drove me nuts with confusion), while at the same time, parts that had less optimal positions had no issues (even more nuts). It was completely contradictory to how people say airflow stops mold settling. The rh was in line but even if it wasn't, if a small part that was in good airflow was getting it, then surely parts in lesser airflow locations would have gotten it even worse, but they had none at all. Eventually I settled on the idea that the particular bud site effected was just too big and perhaps prone to it, even though there were bigger none effected ones. Just recently I read on here that maintaining the same night temp and RH as day stops the swings, and it's the swings that the rot/mold likes. That made a lot more sense than ''just add more airflow'' given what I have seen.

Bit of a ramble sorry, but it's helping to see you have experienced less cases of this, perhaps it really is down to a consistent day/night RH.
 
No your not rambling I'm interested in what you are saying, since joining RIU I'm undecided on rh% now, like you I thought air flow and low rh% and I'm still practicing just now ???
I'm open minded on it ime I've had less bud rot with bad environment (not ideal) than I've had trying to keep it within range ie max 59/60%
 
No your not rambling I'm interested in what you are saying, since joining RIU I'm undecided on rh% now, like you I thought air flow and low rh% and I'm still practicing just now ???
I'm open minded on it ime I've had less bud rot with bad environment (not ideal) than I've had trying to keep it within range ie max 59/60%

Well, might be time to find out since the 2 week old dehuey just packed in ;/. Maybe it's time to test the concept of setting out-take to RH levels, rather than heat. Since Rh is relitive to heat maybe it will work out o0. Or maybe it ends up in 10c swings lights off:o.
 
Well, might be time to find out since the 2 week old dehuey just packed in ;/. Maybe it's time to test the concept of setting out-take to RH levels, rather than heat. Since Rh is relitive to heat maybe it will work out o0. Or maybe it ends up in 10c swings lights off:o.
Some of best weed I've ever grown was 100% without heat for years summer and winter in the UK but I did have reasonable ventilation, if your dehum packed up it's as good a time as any to test the theory, if you don't mind will you keep me updated, heat and humidity is pia I could happily live without.

Fwiw... I've been thinking about this rh% thing since posting earlier, I'm not expert on ventilation but I do know that cold air has limited ability to hold water???
From wiki...
"example, a parcel of air near saturation may contain 28 grams of water per cubic metre of air at 30 °C, but only 8 grams of water per cubic metre of air at 8 °C."
 
Some of best weed I've ever grown was 100% without heat for years summer and winter in the UK but I did have reasonable ventilation, if your dehum packed up it's as good a time as any to test the theory, if you don't mind will you keep me updated, heat and humidity is pia I could happily live without.

Fwiw... I've been thinking about this rh% thing since posting earlier, I'm not expert on ventilation but I do know that cold air has limited ability to hold water???
From wiki...
"example, a parcel of air near saturation may contain 28 grams of water per cubic metre of air at 30 °C, but only 8 grams of water per cubic metre of air at 8 °C."

Yeah, but now that I think about it, the idea won't work at all. On a rainy day the outside RH will be higher than inside, keeping fans on. The outside temps will be lower than inside though. So essentially I would end up with outside rh/temps on the inside. Something like 80%rh and 60 temps.
 
Yeah, but now that I think about it, the idea won't work at all. On a rainy day the outside RH will be higher than inside, keeping fans on. The outside temps will be lower than inside though. So essentially I would end up with outside rh/temps on the inside. Something like 80%rh and 60 temps.
The set up I'm referring to was an attic all the air for ventilation come directly from outside hail rain or shine, in the winter temps were down to 4/5c without heat any acceptable rh% was never going to happen but I didn't know that at time, I'm laughing at myself installing rh relay :-) all it could possibly do was switch on at light out and off at light on when the temp got up.
But I had no hassle with bud rot ???
 
The set up I'm referring to was an attic all the air for ventilation come directly from outside hail rain or shine, in the winter temps were down to 4/5c without heat any acceptable rh% was never going to happen but I didn't know that at time, I'm laughing at myself installing rh relay :-) all it could possibly do was switch on at light out and off at light on when the temp got up.
But I had no hassle with bud rot ???

Yeah it's strange. I guess with low temps, humidity would have been low with lower respiration rates, with out-take being off most of the time less spores from outside would also get in I guess?. But you ran airflow constant.. (sorry :eyesmoke:) so there goes that theory ;p.

I do need to get one of those mold filters though, might well be the end of any issues.
 
I've done a few screens of 2lb+ it's busy in there with that amount, getting air through it was always a concern for me, where leafs touched moisture would gather ime it's very difficult to get air through it but I've had limited trouble, if I was to weight the loss (in theory) I don't think it would exceed a quarter.
I'm now asking myself wtf I'm paying for heat?
I'm not convinced that heat is the answer... But I put in to much effort to risk leaving rh% to chance, ignorance was bliss less worry :-)
 
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