pH fluctuation in reservoir normal??

Im running an ebb and flow bucket system with a 50gal reservoir..

First day of newly changed res I started at 5.6.. next day it was over 6. So I pHed it down to 5.5 and later that night it was up to 5.8.. So I gave it more pH-down again all the way down to 5, and sure enough the next day (today) its at 5.5..

My question is, is this normal?
Does the pH always go up on its own like this?

yes, yes it is

that's why you should aim for a good ph range, not just a specific ph

it is normal that sometimes it is the nutes causing it, and sometimes from tap water it is evaporation of chemicals. after first 2-3 days with that size res it should level out.

Mine never levels out, I fix it everyday...its lame!

pH bumping up is usually a reliable indicator of pathogens (pythium, fusarium) in the rootmass. Treat the res with 50% grade H2O2 at 1ml/L every 3-4 days. Aeration can cause the pH to drift up but usually no more than .1-.2 every few days. A .5-1.0 jump overnight is probably pathogens.

Well its actually the very first res fill, because I just started a new grow. So I doubt I would have any disease like that yet. Plus my res is outside my growroom so that makes it even less likely.

However here's what im running:
Tap water, Voodoo juice, and the full Botanicare line as per their pre recipe schedule for Pureblend Pro (calmag, karma, silicablast).. Could it be any of this causing it? Perhaps the voodoo?

Im considering picking up a "Small Boy" water filter. Do you guys think its worth a crap? I used to have an RO but don't wanna go that route anymore. So I was thinking the smallboy might help a bit? Any feedback about how helpful it is in general vs running straight tap water?

Ender87i said:

Well its actually the very first res fill, because I just started a new grow. So I doubt I would have any disease like that yet. Plus my res is outside my growroom so that makes it even less likely.

However here's what im running:
Tap water, Voodoo juice, and the full Botanicare line as per their pre recipe schedule for Pureblend Pro (calmag, karma, silicablast).. Could it be any of this causing it? Perhaps the voodoo?

Im considering picking up a "Small Boy" water filter. Do you guys think its worth a crap? I used to have an RO but don't wanna go that route anymore. So I was thinking the smallboy might help a bit? Any feedback about how helpful it is in general vs running straight tap water?

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You're on municipal tapwater?

Organic nutes can be challenging. You can't use H2O2 to control pathogens- and you would be very surprised how quickly a nute tank can build up a pathogen load. Chlorination in muni tapwater will keep a tank fairly clean for about 3-4 days- after that, pathogens, which are floating around everywhere, will find your nice yummy tank of nutrient soup a very hospitable home. If you're intent upon using organic nutes, you'll need to find a competing bacteria pathogen control method.

Municipal tapwater is just fine for hydroponics. You really don't need any sort of treatment or filtration unless you're using bore/well water which has a high sulfur content.

Im using tap water from the sink, so if I understand correctly, im ok..

But you said the chlorination of tap water will help keep my res clean from pathogens, so does that mean I SHOULDN'T get a water filter?

Also, again I want to note im using voodoo juice as well as aquashield so perhaps those will both help avoid bad things?

Im just still wondering if I should get a smallboy water filter.. if it would be good or bad.. or even a waste of money for that matter?

BTW my water temp is at 72 according to my bluelab guardian, which is a good temp to be at if im not mistaken?

Ender87i said:

Im using tap water from the sink, so if I understand correctly, im ok..

But you said the chlorination of tap water will help keep my res clean from pathogens, so does that mean I SHOULDN'T get a water filter?

Also, again I want to note im using voodoo juice as well as aquashield so perhaps those will both help avoid bad things?

Im just still wondering if I should get a smallboy water filter.. if it would be good or bad.. or even a waste of money for that matter?

BTW my water temp is at 72 according to my bluelab guardian, which is a good temp to be at if im not mistaken?

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I would not use any sort of filter to remove chlorination. Simply unnecessary.

72 is OK.

Competing bacteria sometimes work for pathogen control and sometimes don't. If you were using inorganic nutes, you could use H2O2, which does work, every time.

i run the full botanicare line for years, great nutes. first thing, stay away from h2o2, it kills the good stuff also and with those nutes being mainly organic is screws them too. that seems to be everyone major cure all on this site, but they never address the real problem, like temps. i talked to aaron at botanicare a few times and he said that it is very normal for organics to do that. add a beneficial enzyme like great white and if not the aquashield will help. i will drop a new res to 5.4 and most of the time the next day it is at 5.8-6.0 and stays steady.
for aero 66-67 is prime temp and you will not have rot or slime issues. anything over 70 allows bad growth to start happening.

jesburger said:

yes, yes it is

that's why you should aim for a good ph range, not just a specific ph

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This!!! What this guy is trying to say, is that you should aim for a PH number in the range of 5.5 that way as the time passes your PH will slowly raise itself to that perfect " dialed in " mark of 5.8-6.2

I swear my tap has some kind of PH buffering agent that constantly tries to raise my any time it drops below 7.5. This last for the first 48 hours or so then levels off. the only other time I have a hard time controlling PH is when I get white slime which seems to be unaffected by H202 treatments. since your organic you cant use H202 either way so your best best is a product like great white or hydrozyme which is full of beneficial enzymes and bacteria that will keep the bad stuff in control.

My recommendation is to go with synthetic nutes and use H202 to keep a sterile rez. H202 will only last in the rez about 2-3 days so you will need to reapply to maintain a sterile environment. this is the easiest way to keep PH under control even thought it will always fluctuate.

If you have bad luck and get the white slime you need to empty the rez and wash the rez, pump, lines, air stone etc all with bleach. Some have stated they will add bleach(chlorine) directly to their reservoirs but many people are against this but I haven't seen proof that it harms plants in small quantities.

stay with the botanicare, you and your patients will appreciate it being chemical free. pharmicuticals give us enough bad chemicals.

superstoner1 said:

i run the full botanicare line for years, great nutes. first thing, stay away from h2o2, it kills the good stuff also and with those nutes being mainly organic is screws them too. that seems to be everyone major cure all on this site, but they never address the real problem, like temps. i talked to aaron at botanicare a few times and he said that it is very normal for organics to do that. add a beneficial enzyme like great white and if not the aquashield will help. i will drop a new res to 5.4 and most of the time the next day it is at 5.8-6.0 and stays steady.
for aero 66-67 is prime temp and you will not have rot or slime issues. anything over 70 allows bad growth to start happening.

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H2O2 is a terrific steriliser for inorganic nutrient-based systems. You don't have to care about res temps because frequent (every 3-4 days) application will keep the water at max oxygenation.

superstoner1 said:

stay with the botanicare, you and your patients will appreciate it being chemical free. pharmicuticals give us enough bad chemicals.

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Water is a chemical. You still want a "chemical free" grow op?

thats really splitting hairs, isnt it. a very defensive reply.

superstoner1 said:

thats really splitting hairs, isnt it. a very defensive reply.

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Not splitting hairs nor defensive at all. Merely illuminating the point that there's a lot of evidence-free urban myths about 'chemicals' out there.

Is this an ebb & flow specific problem? I run DWC and I dont have to touch my Ph hardly at all.

whenu have to be the main care giver of a very ill person and you look at whats in these many thousands of dollars worth of prescriptions(chemicals) its not myth, its fact. thats what i was referring to, trying to start a pissing contest over water is rediculous. spread the love man.

bigv1976 said:

Is this an ebb & flow specific problem? I run DWC and I dont have to touch my Ph hardly at all.

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I don't have to bother with pH much, either. Good nutes will include pH buffers, such that when you mix for an appropriate strength, the pH will be set very close to 5.8-6.0. As the tank is depleted of nutes and topped up with plain water, the pH will wander upward and may require downward correction with phosphoric acid based pH Down.

superstoner1 said:

whenu have to be the main care giver of a very ill person and you look at whats in these many thousands of dollars worth of prescriptions(chemicals) its not myth, its fact. thats what i was referring to, trying to start a pissing contest over water is rediculous. spread the love man.

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If that's the case, I think you'll agree that 'chemicals' are not uniformly a bad thing.